1/4 miles times for bolt-on's , cam's , and tune???
FYI lots of the bolton Zs i used to race with at the track run high 12s and 13.0s at 105-107
this was 1-2 years ago.
Id imagine with traction/tune/cams/good driving you would see 12.4-12.6 at 107-110
I personally have not seen the gain that cams can give, just dynoes of cammed cars on dyna packs which gives me no true idea of what kind of gains they give.
driving and traction are key 95 percent of auto enthusiests will not ET well and will throw more and more power at their problem while not running much quicker but buy creating more traction issues and only trapping a lil higher.
this was 1-2 years ago.
Id imagine with traction/tune/cams/good driving you would see 12.4-12.6 at 107-110
I personally have not seen the gain that cams can give, just dynoes of cammed cars on dyna packs which gives me no true idea of what kind of gains they give.
driving and traction are key 95 percent of auto enthusiests will not ET well and will throw more and more power at their problem while not running much quicker but buy creating more traction issues and only trapping a lil higher.
Originally Posted by 95snoozer
FYI lots of the bolton Zs i used to race with at the track run high 12s and 13.0s at 105-107
this was 1-2 years ago.
Id imagine with traction/tune/cams/good driving you would see 12.4-12.6 at 107-110
I personally have not seen the gain that cams can give, just dynoes of cammed cars on dyna packs which gives me no true idea of what kind of gains they give.
driving and traction are key 95 percent of auto enthusiests will not ET well and will throw more and more power at their problem while not running much quicker but buy creating more traction issues and only trapping a lil higher.
this was 1-2 years ago.
Id imagine with traction/tune/cams/good driving you would see 12.4-12.6 at 107-110
I personally have not seen the gain that cams can give, just dynoes of cammed cars on dyna packs which gives me no true idea of what kind of gains they give.
driving and traction are key 95 percent of auto enthusiests will not ET well and will throw more and more power at their problem while not running much quicker but buy creating more traction issues and only trapping a lil higher.
WOW! Looks like my numbers
but your trap should be 118+
there are the guys that have the money to throw power at a car and go low 12s, anyone can go 12s with enough power. Then there are the people who dont have the money and have to learnm to drive there way there
its when you put both together that you run 10s
there are the guys that have the money to throw power at a car and go low 12s, anyone can go 12s with enough power. Then there are the people who dont have the money and have to learnm to drive there way there

its when you put both together that you run 10s
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You're saying that a 350Z with full bolt-ons, cams, clutch, etc, AND a good tune in an ideal condition will ONLY run 13.6?
I'd say low 13s.
I'd say low 13s.
so low to mid 12's is what it should run in ideal conditions huh.thats pretty good, exactly what i was looking for, and actually is helping me decide in getting the car. i had an audi with a t28 on it before this, and it was very unreliable. so im looking to stay n/a and have a pimp *** car at the same time, that can pull on stock or even slighlty modded evo's and ****. it def. could if they can run high 12's with baaad traction issues off a roll
Originally Posted by 95snoozer
Id imagine with traction/tune/cams/good driving you would see 12.4-12.6 at 107-110
driving and traction are key 95 percent of auto enthusiests will not ET well and will throw more and more power at their problem while not running much quicker but buy creating more traction issues and only trapping a lil higher.
driving and traction are key 95 percent of auto enthusiests will not ET well and will throw more and more power at their problem while not running much quicker but buy creating more traction issues and only trapping a lil higher.
Jime-dont you spray on slicks? What shot?
Originally Posted by Alberto
Right on...I trapped 107mph with stock headers and a mail in flash, def enough for 12's I just never launched it hard enough back in the day.
Jime-dont you spray on slicks? What shot?
Jime-dont you spray on slicks? What shot?
My 2k2 Maxima did a best of 13.3 N/A but the 95 is lighter and the cams help as well. I still think it has a 12.3 or 12.4 capability when the weather cools down.
The splparts.com ran a 12.9 with SPL intake system - JWT intake, SPL intake pipe, Varis duct
SPL custom lightweight battery/relocation
Crawford intake plenum (early version), ported throttle body
Crawford headers
Topspeed cat delete pipes
Fujitsubo Y-pipe
5Zigen ProRacer A-Spec single exhaust
JWT flywheel/clutch
UR pulley
SPL custom lightweight battery/relocation
Crawford intake plenum (early version), ported throttle body
Crawford headers
Topspeed cat delete pipes
Fujitsubo Y-pipe
5Zigen ProRacer A-Spec single exhaust
JWT flywheel/clutch
UR pulley
Originally Posted by Jime
Haven't weighed it yet but my closest guess is around 2650. Also I don't have any VTC because I am using the 95 ECU.
Ya, there is a couple of people on here with VQ35 maxima's and they are getting really good times. They are really impressive.
I definitly think with full bolt-ons, cams and some dr's, you should be able to run mid high 12's with a trap speed of about 110 and maybe up. That would be a pretty fun car. With all that money invested though, you could have probably afforded some sort of F/I, but I here ya on terms of reliability. Thats my biggest reason for wanting to stay away from boost. Nothing a little nitrous couldnt help though!!!
I definitly think with full bolt-ons, cams and some dr's, you should be able to run mid high 12's with a trap speed of about 110 and maybe up. That would be a pretty fun car. With all that money invested though, you could have probably afforded some sort of F/I, but I here ya on terms of reliability. Thats my biggest reason for wanting to stay away from boost. Nothing a little nitrous couldnt help though!!!




