'F' the CF doors, hatch, and slicks, too expensive for the savings, you need to get rid of that rear wiper, its too much resistance....lol. I dont really know what you could do, but the CF doors is a little crazy, and expensive, new exhaust? I thought the AAM was pretty light....anyways good luck, and whats your slip say for 60ft and 1/8th? Maybe you could make up a big chunk of time in the 60 ft department(a couple tenths adds up to more time at the end right?) and a little on your shifting, I know my 3, 12.8's at 114 could drop significantly if I could launch and get under a 2.2-2.3 which was all I was getting when I did run.

 

Most CF hoods are heavier than the aluminum stock hood...dry carbon pieces would def help, with lexan windows but that's not ideal for a street car or cheap.

 

I am taking out the following
1. subwoofer box (has two 10") (40 to 50 lbs)
2. both my amps (20lbs)
3. front sparco seat (40lbs)
4. The stock navi with dvd player ( I have used it 5 time, 10lbs)
5 going on a liquid diet (10lbs)

Thats 120lbs that will bring me to 3280lbs

No CF stuff not buying it!

 

take off your crash bars ... lol kidding dont kill yourself but it would save weight.

 

alberto really?? my cf hood feels really light compared to my stock.

 

Are you doubting Alberto?^^ *slap*







:P jk

 

Do you know how much your car weighs?
My 60ft 2.1 and 1/8 is @ 90mph

 

Slicks or DR's are a must as far as i'm concerned. Skinnies up front won't hurt either. If you want to retain some stereo gear, mount an amp to a removeable sub and take them out before you head to the track. With that power level you should be deep into the 11's. Not sure what exhaust you're running, but a single exit is an easy way to drop lbs. Also make sure you run on a fairly empty tank of gas.

 

I am on ebay right now looking for some DR's. I am removing the JL stealth box and amps, and configuring something to quickly remove it when I go to the track. AAM dual 3".

 

not sure if these are still available or not, but here are some options on twinturbo.net classifieds.
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=107387
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=107333

I consider my ET streets to be the best bang for the buck mod i've ever purchased for drag racing. Made a huge difference on my z32 and z33.

 

Don't do the CF doors. If you run at the track with CF doors they will require a full roll cage with door bars anyways, which would put the weight right back in there and take away from the streetability. My next suggestion is to ditch the Brembos, since you are drag racing you will be fine with regular OEM brakes. Other than that, swap the driver's seat with a fiberglass or CF racing bucket and remove the passenger seat. The Braille battery is a good idea as well.

It is tough getting to that weight. My F/I 350Z with 1 racing seat, completely gutted interior, full tank, and no driver weighed 3,240 lbs. Since then, I have gone to a lightweight battery, removed the rear wing, and swapped the hatch for a CF with lexan, but I added a passenger seat (same racing seat as the driver). Hopefully I will be hovering around 3100 lbs then.

Also, if you are only concerned about going straight, you could remove the sway bars.

 

I agree with 350ZNV on the seats. The CF bucket I got from SPL is only 13lbs. Gotta be pretty hardcore to swap out the brembos as the regular brakes suck. Sway bar drop is also pretty hardcore-i've disconnected the front before, but never removed it completely but I also track the car.

350ZNV, what is the weight difference of the stock hatch vs the CF and lexan? Cost?

 

Actually the OEM brakes stop just as well as the Brembos, but the Brembos are less prone to over heating. Since he drag races, he doesn't really heat up the brakes enough to make Brembos necessary.

I don't know the exact difference in the weight between the hatches, but I estimate around ~60 lbs. Cost is basically the Seibon hatch and whatever you can find the lexan for. I traded some other parts for my lexan, but I am sure price will vary depending on who you go to to make it, or you can just by a sheet of it and cut it out yourself. All said and done it would be under $1000 easy.

 

Letting go of the brembos... huuum...no! Thats to hard core. I am going to do what I stated before and I'll keep you posted. 350ZNV your lexan glass, does it scratch easy?

 

I hear what you're saying about the brakes, but after blowing out a caliper seal mid session and having it catch on fire I'd never suggest going to oem brakes! (Riding on stoptechs in the front now)
Yes, they are fine for regular street driving and the drag strip, but if he ever thinks about a road course it's a bad idea. On second, eagletanggreen ditch the Brembos and sell me your rear calipers and rotors. Even trade perhaps ??

 

Yes.

 

I would like to see a pic of the inside of your car.

 

What DR setup are you guys running with. To lazy to search.

 

[QUOTE=eagletanggreen]What DR setup are you guys running with. To lazy to search.[/]

z32 rear TT wheels and 26x11.5x16 Mickey Thompson ET Streets bias ply.
Cut a best of 1.69 so far in my car but have cut a 1.462 on my friends z32 with them.

 

These are the best ones I have...