First off you were clearly the 1st to open your mouth with "suck my ***." I would have never said a nasty word to you otherwise. Congrats........your car is a dog and is a ticking timebomb with those components all at the same time.

 

Yeah, I said suck my ***. And you need to learn how to take **** lightly. 3 pu$$y words from me doesn't mean you need to start static.

Car is a dog? And that means, more **** talk? or Complement?

BTW, my tune is fantastic. I'm not worried about an explosion. Besides, I wouldn't have gone F/I if I couldn't have afforded the consequences. **** happens. I ain't scuurrred.

 

This is such a false statement it shouldn't even be posted.

The smoothness of the car is ALL in the tune - I don't care what ecu you're using. If the person punching the keys doesn't understand what they are doing, and/or doesn't understand how to take the datalogs and make the car do what they want, then whether you have a used UTEC or a new Pectel, it's a paperweight....and that is the real bottom line. Are some platforms easier to work with than others? Sure. Do some afford more datapoints? Absolutely. Do some have different features vs others? Yep. But they ultimately all do the same thing, and they won't do anything without the right person behind the keyboard.

My own car ran a UTEC from just before X Mas 2005-2008, and ranged from a bolt on setup, to a fully built motor. You can ask anyone who's ever been in it, from a drive down the block, to the 13 hour drive to Z Dayz - it ran perfectly smoothly at every rpm point, any throttle point, any time of year, no matter where I got gas, or whether I drove it like my grandma, or not.

Back to the OP - it's sort of a useless quest to find out why you were slower from a year ago to now. The first thing you should do is get the car on a dyno with a wideband, grab yourself a datalogger, and see what the car is actually doing. Anything short of that is a waste of your time.

 

Let me be frank, so don't take this offensively.

First, like others have said, we don't have any real useful information that we can go by, so some of the responses you got may not prove to be beneficial for you.

Second, my car doesn't have a tune and I ran 13.5 on street tires and 13.2 on slicks, while the best I ran bone stock was around 13.9ish (I was a noob, though). And my best N/A runs were with only 4 mods (popcharger, mrev2, 5/16" spacer, and test pipes). Trust me, you don't NEED a tune to go faster for your mods, but it'll help (given that you can utilize the few extra ponies). BTW, I never got a tune and I seem to have done fine (still don't and still doing fine).

Also, in TX, the weather is just ridiculous - we just have sh1tty conditions (heat and humidity) to begin with. Our density altitude is constantly hitting 2000' or higher. Also, you mentioned that you raced in a cool weather the first time and hot weather this time. That's probably the biggest factor, not the tune you don't really need for the few mods you have. Those few extra horsepower isn't going to make you a better drag racer.

It's no surprise you're running slow, since you're a new drag racer. And because you're not very experienced in drag racing, it's not far fetched to assume that you're probably not consistent (key word). All of the above is probably why you're just not doing well and seemed like you've gotten worse.

And no offense to others, but many of them are just regurgitating things they read on the forums, not giving information that pertains to the issue at hand learned from experience - just something I noticed a while back. They mean well, but I just wouldn't trust anything and everything as "useful advice" (common sense), sometimes even including my advice.

I suggest you (OP) start visiting the drag strip more and start working on becoming more efficient and consistent, rather than thinking about how to add more power when you have shown you couldn't do well in stock form. Power isn't everything and means nothing if you can't use it properly.