wheel hop is one of the major contributers to broken axles.

 

I never have had great results with DRs I am more consistant with them than on street tires but I still only get 1.9 60fts with DRs and 2.0-2.1 with street tires and I broke an axle with the DRs. That being said I am very inxperienced with DRs like maybe 10 passes total and the OEM broken axle was broke because I was getting frustrated with my launch bogging so I dumped the clutch from 3500-3800rpm and shocked the drivetrain.

 

For some of you experienced guys...what are respectable 60ft's that you are getting (not including with full slicks)

 

For N/A...
Street tires: 2.0 or lower
DRs: at least a 1.9 or lower
Slicks: at least a 1.8 or lower

I pulled 1.8s on slicks and 2.0s on street tires N/A. This was without gears, without a tune, and with only a few bolt ons. When spraying nitrous, my best has been in the 1.7s.




BTW, if you want to save money, then get a pair of cheap wheels to mount slicks on. You can get everything used for very cheap. This'll get you the ET that you want and you won't spend a lot of money on buying lots of street tires (because you'll burn through them real quick) or drag radials. Trust me on this one. Like I said before, I've been through the exact same phase that you're going through now, so it's not like I don't know what I'm talking about.

 

good advice. I'll look into it. But the price really has to be right. I also heard that you can buy slightly used slicks for $5 at the NASCAR experience ride in Orlando, FL. Thats only 1.5 hrs away from me.

However, what are my chances of dropping an axle if I mount slicks? I'm worried about that now. Preloading doesn't really help me all that much bc i have a manual.

BTW: any constructive criticism on my slips??

 

Good show.

 

Most of us have manuals. You can use the e-brake to pre-load the drivetrain.

 

preloading will make you less likely to break, not more likely. that's the point of preloading the drivetrain.

also you're more likely to break something on DRs than on slicks, but at your power level it's not very like that you'll break something.

 

Also for timeslip criticism except for the 60's they look pretty decent (meaning I don't see a bunch of time being wasted on shifts which would be evidenced by the differential between the splits, and/or significant inconsistency between trap speeds and times). Just need to work that 60' down a pretty good driver will be in the 2.0s with a Z on street tires, a very good one in the 1.9s.

 

Thanks man. I appreciate the comments. I think I'm going to get into a pair of Nitto DR's. I'm worried about how long they'll last (college budget), but I REALLY want that 12.9.

BTW: Whats the best way to preload a manual? I've searched this forum and others and the best I know how to do, i mentioned a few posts up. Is there a better way for a stick shift?

Thanks again

 

There is alot of good advice here. My best 60' on street tires is 1.98 I believe and 1.89 on DR's. Stickier tires will definitly get you there. Im thinking about moving to slicks myself to see if I can get a couple more 1.8's. Goodluck.

 

I've pushed harder than most... I haven't broken ****. Still have the stock clutch with 46k miles, 5k with turbo and NO2.

Preload the clutch.

 

I'll be the first to say it. There's no such thing as too much traction. Wheel hop will break an axle. I've made well over 100 passes in my Z with no issue. I launch @ 6K, on the bottle, spraying a 142 shot, -2* timing and BFG's. I wish I had more traction.

 

not a drag racer, but how do you preload the drive train, just curious

 

I keep the clutch just outside of the friction zone and pull my foot straight back from the floor. I never side step my clutch. Just the way I learned to launch my WRX. Never snapped a gear, even with 340awhp.

 

^ That.


izit26, what exactly is a "142 shot?" Are you just going by the whp increase with your jets on a particular dyno? What are the jet sizes? Do you have any sort of tuning done other than the 2 degrees of timing pull?

 

I run a .061N and a .36F. That's a bit richer than the off the shelf tunes, due to not being able to get to a dyno. I'm leaving a bit of power on the table. I don't have anything done more than timing pulled. I used to run rich to stay safe with stock timing. I'm getting some time off from work and I'll lean it out a bit.

 

i don't know if you have gotten your tires yet and understand that you are on a budget but Mickey Thompson does make a tire that size. . .i have them on my car right now. . .they are ET Street Drag Radial II 265/40R18 (27X10.50R18). . .it's not a full slick but will provide more than enough traction. . .





and here is a link to the tire itself. . .
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s.../40R18&type=SS

 

Wow, that's crazy. I thought I was pushing it with my 54/42 (yes, 42 is my fuel jet and my AFR is 11.8).

I honestly don't know how long you'll be able to spray that much without a proper tune. Also, just because you're running rich it doesn't mean it's safer. If you're too rich, it could potentially cause a backfire in your intake manifold (mixture could "pool" inside). When that happens, a lot of things can go boom and then you'll be out a lot of money. Both lean and rich conditions are bad, regardless of what you think.

My suggestion: GET ON A DYNO AND FIND OUT YOUR AFR!!! Then adjust your jet sizes accordingly.

+1 There isn't anybody with nitrous on our forums that will overpower drag radials during a launch. I believe some of our forum's fastest runs have been made on drag radials.

 

Hmmm. Thanks man! Im going to look into those. How many miles do you think you get on them, if you used them on a daily driver? 4-5K?