New PB
12.6 @ 111mph. I usually trap higher. 100 degrees, 50% humidity, 3500ft DA not helping.
With more practice I can continue to lower my 60 ft, but what point will the axles break on a dead hook given there is zero spin, ever, on my ET Streets? The wrinkle sidewalls seem to be doing their job though.
With more practice I can continue to lower my 60 ft, but what point will the axles break on a dead hook given there is zero spin, ever, on my ET Streets? The wrinkle sidewalls seem to be doing their job though.
Last edited by djamps; Sep 5, 2011 at 11:54 AM.
12.6 @ 111mph. I usually trap higher. 100 degrees, 50% humidity, 3500ft DA not helping.
With more practice I can continue to lower my 60 ft, but what point will the axles break on a dead hook given there is zero spin, ever, on my ET Streets? The wrinkle sidewalls seem to be doing their job though.

With more practice I can continue to lower my 60 ft, but what point will the axles break on a dead hook given there is zero spin, ever, on my ET Streets? The wrinkle sidewalls seem to be doing their job though.

The video below is from March the track was empty.
I think the $35 price and distance scares people away.
http://youtu.be/Fd7BXqa_04Q
Last edited by denchan350gt; Sep 5, 2011 at 02:17 PM.
Congrats on the PB!
Shifting is culprit for the 1/8 being slow and your 1/4 time being off the pace.
For comparison with less power my Z with the same 60ft, would go high 7's in the 1/8 @ 87-90mph and eventually run 11's.
You have the power, you have the 1/8 trap, but the shifts are killing your ET and subsequent 1/4 trap.
Shifting is culprit for the 1/8 being slow and your 1/4 time being off the pace.
For comparison with less power my Z with the same 60ft, would go high 7's in the 1/8 @ 87-90mph and eventually run 11's.
You have the power, you have the 1/8 trap, but the shifts are killing your ET and subsequent 1/4 trap.
Last edited by Alberto; Sep 5, 2011 at 02:53 PM.
My friend who was an "avg" drag racer and with my slicks (his first time ever on slicks) and spray pulled a 1.62 60ft on his second pass. Even a retard could pull those short times on a tire + nitrous.
It sucks because the car can be a dyno queen (400 + on the dyno) but on the street, and especially track, the tune can turn upside down, and my Uprev engine management is killing me. perceived shift knock and timing retard. The harder you shift the more timing is pulled and power lost on each gear.
i made some changes which helped my E/T on the final run and led to the PB but it's still there. And I'm not even sure if I can fix it based on experiences with a couple others in by boat.
I've got a couple ideas for the next trip to the track to hopefully eliminate/minimize the issue, and bring the times down a bit. Fingers crossed!
i made some changes which helped my E/T on the final run and led to the PB but it's still there. And I'm not even sure if I can fix it based on experiences with a couple others in by boat.
I've got a couple ideas for the next trip to the track to hopefully eliminate/minimize the issue, and bring the times down a bit. Fingers crossed!
Last edited by djamps; Sep 5, 2011 at 05:08 PM.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
Very nice... Practice practice, definitely makes a difference...Im waitin till the weather cools down a little, sucks I havent had a chance to try out my ET streets....Our cars should be around the same power level but unfortunately for me my 60's look like ***!
Congrats bro keep on racing!
Congrats bro keep on racing!
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^^ thanks... I'm not going to let the tuning issues get to me, I can still hone the 60 ft's while I play with the timing and knock maps.
Cecil is next, but I won't have my car for a few more weeks (getting some electrical work done). I think we're planning on 1st week of october.
Cecil is next, but I won't have my car for a few more weeks (getting some electrical work done). I think we're planning on 1st week of october.
A little off subject but I just upgraded to a haltech from uprev and the difference is night and day ..I would suggest if you have performance and driveability in mind go standalone
This is absolutely worthless info as it isnt comparable being AJ has N20 (diff powerband) and an auto transmission with a stall.
My friend who was an "avg" drag racer and with my slicks (his first time ever on slicks) and spray pulled a 1.62 60ft on his second pass. Even a retard could pull those short times on a tire + nitrous.
My friend who was an "avg" drag racer and with my slicks (his first time ever on slicks) and spray pulled a 1.62 60ft on his second pass. Even a retard could pull those short times on a tire + nitrous.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
Don't kno if the standalone will help with his ET but driveability well definitely be under control..
Back on topic, I can't seem to cut lower than 2.22 60 times..
Last track day, things seemed worse, I couldn't run under 13 s... Seeing u post this makes me wanna go back out n practice real soon......
Back on topic, I can't seem to cut lower than 2.22 60 times..
Last track day, things seemed worse, I couldn't run under 13 s... Seeing u post this makes me wanna go back out n practice real soon......
Last track day, things seemed worse, I couldn't run under 13 s... Seeing u post this makes me wanna go back out n practice real soon......
http://www.rangeracceleration.com
Last edited by djamps; Sep 5, 2011 at 07:28 PM.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
Drivability is great with Uprev it's just like stock...but track abuse + F/I isn't it's best area. My UTEC performed better at the track, but worse on the street than Uprev. I'm sure a Haltec would solve all my issues (good at track AND street) but I'm not ready to drop the cash. I'm going to give a little more time into perfecting this tune before I cave in.
Even on the slicks? What RPM do you launch at? I didn't start cutting 1.8's until about 4.5krpm...and on street tires I never got better than 2.0 without wheel hop...never again will I run street tires on a 1/4. This is what I studied:
http://www.rangeracceleration.com
Even on the slicks? What RPM do you launch at? I didn't start cutting 1.8's until about 4.5krpm...and on street tires I never got better than 2.0 without wheel hop...never again will I run street tires on a 1/4. This is what I studied:
http://www.rangeracceleration.com
Not on slicks..I have previously launched at 4k on street tires... I took some pressure out n launched harder but got plenty of wheel hop...
I have MT ET street radial 26 x 10.5 x 16.. On 16"fd wheels... I haven't tried them out yet since mounting them...
All my times were on 285 35 19 street tires, with the best being 13.01 @112 mph which was actually my first time out last time out I had something like a 113 trap but the ET was still in the 13's..
I figure I'll run the tires at around 20# n see Wat launching at 4500 does for me.. The other thing I have to work on is slipping the clutch but in my mind it feels like I'm actually taking off too slow... IDK more track time will tell..
As far as the Haltech goes I understand Wat u were doing tuning it urself n not caving in to the full standalone... It is a bit of money!
Aside from the price of a standalone I don't look forward to starting over from scratch on tuning... I can't count the hours I already spent/wasted on this uprev crap, probably 24+. The next time at the track I'm going to focus on the shift knock / timing issues and hopefully resolve. It will lower the E/T's even with my same suck driving.
You have been working hard. Nice driving.
Last edited by djamps; Sep 6, 2011 at 04:58 AM.
Like mentioned though, bias ply is much easier on axles than DR's



