tpinto0260

iTrader: (2)

Car:
2006 Base 350z 6spd manual

Mods:
VLSD
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
ACT Street Light Flywheel
UR Under drive pulley
5/8 Plenum Spacer
Magnaflow 3” exhaust

Tires (rear):
265/35/18 HanKook Ventus V12
35PSI
Stock Rims

Track 1/8th Mile

So this will be my first time Drag Racing the Z and looking for some feedback on my plan of attack.

Launch:
It seems like 60ft times make the biggest difference to your ET. I plan on holding approximately 3.5K and slipping (not dropping) the clutch off the line. My clutch flywheel combo is less than a year old so I don’t anticipate any issues there. Let me know if there’s a better way. I’m hoping that I can hold the RPM without staring at the tach so that I can focus on reaction time.

Tire:
No idea what to set the tire pressure at. I was just going to leave them at 35PSI but would consider lowering the pressure.

1-2 transition:
I plan on having the clutch fully disengaged before getting back on the gas between 1st and 2nd.

The light:
Ummm, should I start launching the car on the third light? I believe I should already start the launch before the light turns green.

Any other tips would be great.

tpinto0260

iTrader: (2)

I forgot one more thing
Burnout:
Should I even be performing a burnout on street tires?

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

You will most likely spin if you launch at 3500. If it is cold out (under 65f) I'd do a little burn out...no top fuel burn out action though. Shift like you mean it.

tpinto0260

iTrader: (2)

what do you think for tire pressure?

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

~25 in the rear 40 in the front.

tpinto0260

iTrader: (2)

I'll try it, thanks

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Don't engage to fast or slow off the line -- too fast you bog (or break), too slow you roast the clutch. Try to have full engagement by 10-15 feet out.

In first gear, don't increase throttle until the moment you're 100% engaged, and don't slam the gas to the floor. Squeeze it down, the speed you'll have to judge based on traction.

If you get 'wheel hop' back off immediately to protect your axles and driveline. Bias ply slicks will usually eliminate hop, I pretty much stopped running street tires due to it (but I also have way more TQ than u).

Burnout not really necessary for streets > 60deg like mike said... just a quick spin to shed the water and gravel.

Lastly, have fun!

tpinto0260

iTrader: (2)

Great info, thanks gents

davidv

iTrader: (2)

1/8 mile is a tough race. You have no distance left to make up for a mediocre start.

Keep a log of RPM and 60 foot time. 2000 RPM. 2500 RPM. 3000 RPM. See what works best for you.

As 03threefiftyz mentioned VHT and cold weather (less than 60 degrees) is not ideal. Be smart. If the car points the wrong way in second gear, back off the accelerator. No trophy for hitting a wall.

Be safe. Have fun.

ffwturboZ

iTrader: (2)

Ah, also one more thing...practice, practice, practice............

tpinto0260

iTrader: (2)

Results:
Well I'm not great at drag racing. My good times were 9.7 which I was able to run twice. I raced a HR 350z a couple times which was an eye opening experience. The HR is Fast. The HR was running consistent 9.3 and I think his only mod was intakes. we were neck and neck off the line but he pulled me pretty good after that.

you guys were right about launching at a lower RPM. getting out of the hole without major wheel spin is an art and if you mess it up your time is shot.


I know I need some more practice but I was also running into some issues shifting quickly into 2nd. It was just a little notchy I'm not sure if I was trying to shift too quickly. The issue may also be related to my manual transmission oil which has over 50K on it. I just ordered 4 quarts of Redline Manual Transmission oil to help with aggressive shifting.

I had a lot of luck running Redline in my previous rides. I had a turbo GTI that would always grind into gear when driving aggressively. The issue was resolved after changing to Redline and swapping in some Energy Suspension Trany/Motor mounts.

Is there anything I should do to ensure a smooth shift while drag racing?

I also had some issues with wheel hop, I hate that feeling and want to fix it. From this one outing to the track I popped that bushing that supposed to keep the differential from tilting up and down. I plan on either changing out that bushing entirely or adding a diff brace. Let me know which is better (brace/bushing). Are there any other suspension mods you would recommend to prevent wheel hop? I was able to almost eliminate wheel hop with my previous cars by switching to Energy Suspension bushing. Which bushing should be upgraded on the Z for drag racing? If I can keep the back end on the pavement I'm sure I'll pick up a couple tenths.

Time:
9.74 @ 77 (Is this normal for a poor driver with the mods I have?)


I also plan on getting the car tuned in January. I'll keep practicing but I wouldn't mind having a little extra power. That HR was significantly faster than my 2006 and I'm thinking the tune should help. I was also thinking about some high flow cats but not sure.

Let me know what you guys think and if you have any other advice.

Thanks

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Ricer arithmetic gives you a 15.21 second quarter mile. Did you stop before the finish line for coffee?

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

9.74 in not normal. For most new drivers low 9's is IMO "acceptable"

You need serious practice

tpinto0260

iTrader: (2)

Yeah it's pretty bad I'll head out again and give it another go after the gear oil is changed. The track is not a real track it's a parking lot so conditions are bad but I should have better numbers regardless.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

You did OK. Few of the Top-25 racers here started in the Top-25. Many took years to make it. Drag Racing is like any other sport. Impossible to learn on the internet.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

The best solution to wheel hop and spin ona 6mt is bias ply slicks. Or you can spend a ton of money modding your suspension/driveline and 'hope' it helps meanwhile your car is now noisy and rougher on normal streets.