Can a blown subframe bushing cause shifting problems? because mine is fu(ked!!! , clunks real bad when shifting. ordering a solid diff mount set today

 

Doubtful, look towards the driver/clutch/shifter/synchros (in that order).

 

Just wanted to add and hopefully someone knows what this could be, Lets say say I hold the clutch in and the car is in first gear , I can rev normal but once my RPMs reach 6500k the car will move forward like im releasing the clutch lol tried it on my brothers Z and his doesnt do that. Granted I know the transmission is always engaged to a point and I know if the car is on a lift the wheels will move in gear even if the clutch is pressed. I have a feeling its the fluid but could easily also be the clutch as well.
I'll find out tonight when I change transmission fluid and replace my clutch master cylinder with the Willwood one from Zspeed.

I sort of ruled driver out of the equation, not saying im a great driver or anything but Ive never had that issue and I've had a couple guys try driving it as well and they're getting the same results.
-Clutch I could believe since I keep hearing ACT clutch owners keep having gear lock out. My concern is why only 2nd gear, if im getting lock out why not any other gear?
-Shifter, I'm convinced I need to align mine. I noticed it goes into gear easier if i pull the fifter more straight back into 2nd rather than towards myself into second.
-Synchros I sure as fu(k hope not!! lol

I got Motul Gear 300 75W90 yesterday for the transmission, because Redline with lightweight shockproof made my shifts feel really notchy even during normal driving.

 

 

It's awesome seeing a higher mileage HR land 12s. The tune should help lower that time a bit too. Stock flywheel?

 

thank you, Im proud of this car to run the way it does with nearly stock power. im confident I can improve upon my 12.9 considerably with just better weather and taking care of my lock out issue. and on top of that if i can get my 60' to at least a 1.7 ill be happy but im shooting for a 1.6. next time ill be installing stock rear shocks and struts so i dont have so much camber. a tune would be great i just dont trust anyone lol, ill be getting long tune headers and eventually cams

EDIT* sorry i forgot to answer your question, flywheel is ACT

 

If the wheels spin with clutch in then you def. have some clutch issues -- could simply need adjustment (dowel pin going into master cyl), maybe some air in the line, or bad master/csc. Fix that before it trashes your syncros!

 

From what I've seen even a stock Z will spin its wheels a bit on a lift if its in gear with the clutch pressed. Its not the same type of wheel spin as if the clutch is being released, its so light that you can easily stop it with your hand. When mine was stock it did that. I think if it was a problem with the clutch adjustment it would've burned up the clutch by now, I've had this set up for a bit over a year and a half.

On a better note, I replaced transmission fluid to Motul and Willwood Clutch Master Cylinder last night, it feels and shifts amazing, no more notchy shifter like I had with Redline fluid. Its mind blowing how easy it is to bleed the clutch, took no more than 5 minutes to bleed. Install was very easy.
Didnt get to see if I still had the gear lock out because it was raining but i have a feeling it may be fixed, dont wanna speak too soon.
solid diff bushings going in tomorrow

 

Congrats! I always knew my stock 07 was capable of doing a high 12, but hard launches were impossible, with the stock slave cylinder pressure issue.

I often thought of changing the fluid and slave lines, but it wouldn't have been stock then.

I imagine that yours will drop another couple of tenths in cooler weather!

 

Doubt any NA Z could nail a 1.6 60ft, unless it was on a diet and had some gear and tire.

Looking forward to better times from you now that you did the mods.

 

Thanks Veetec, I remember your threads when you were doing work with your stock Z lol. yea I think you could've done it too, stock CSC is garbage my clutch slipped all the time plus I had the open diff of fail.

 

A 1.6 would be amazing for me, hell im fine with a 1.7 . I think Andre(longassnumber) on here managed to cut a 1.5 60' but messed up during the run, his best e.t was 12.5 with a 1.696 60' . 3.9 gear, slicks, test pipes, flywheel, tune.
The dude dissapeared, I really wanted to know who tuned that thing.

I shal not dissapoint, im looking to improve by a lot next time I go. when the weather cools down a bit.

 

Aside from andre's 1.69 (a unicorn run), 1.75 is the lowest stock block 60ft logged in the top 25 with most in the 1.8x range. I'd say you're doing REAL good if you get into the 1.7's consistently without toasting your clutch launching off redline. The supposed 1.5x N.A. would be a fluke or a lie IMO...

 

1.5 NA = you staged with the rear tires lol

 

Lol damn I dont know much about all that I'm still pretty new when it comes to drag racing at the track. My best 60' was 1.874 that night launching at around 5k without a burn out , but then I messed up my 1-2 shift :/

 

What's your tire specs again?

Do you always launch from 5k, what other area have you tried?

 

Tires are MT E.T Streets 26X11.50-16 , Last time I tried around 5ish to see how it goes. next time I'll go higher. I dont feel comfortable doing a burn out yet so I just sort of do a brief spin to clean them off a bit.

 

Spin em up in 2nd gear. Much better than 1st

 

So dump it in 2nd creep out of the water box while spinning and when they get sticky the car will start bog and that's it?

 

^^ That's what I do with slicks except I hold the brake as well... I've never done that on street tires. My street tires had too much wheel hop even in 2nd for me to get a decent burnout.

The general consensus with street tires is to spin the water/gravel off them... heating them up isn't worth while. But what do I know... my best 60ft on street tires was 1.9. Most were 2.1-2.2.