New PB, 08 Z ,12s finally
09-05-2012, 04:59 PM
#41
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I had horrible wheel hop as well up until this past Saturday when I installed my solid diff bushings , now I feel a lot more comfortable doing a burnout without feeling like my car will wheel hop itself in half lol
09-05-2012, 06:19 PM
#43
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I am, my first attempt at racing with slicks was the time before this one. Had the tire pressure too high and when I did a burn out in the water box it wheel hopped real bad, granted my diff bushing was blown for the past year I didnt want to risk messing more things up so I didn't do a burn out this time.
Which is why I went ahead and replaced the blown bushing.
Which is why I went ahead and replaced the blown bushing.
09-05-2012, 06:25 PM
#44
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Oh and btw to do a burn out I pull the ABS fuse in the hidden fuse compartment behind the battery , the one where you have to remove a bunch of plastic to get to it. Reason I don't like it is I lose power steering, speedometer, and odometer stops counting , plus its a b!tch to get to. Is there a fuse in the box by the pedals thatvi can pull that will let me power brake?
09-05-2012, 08:45 PM
#45
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You don't have to pull the fuse! I believe I have found a way to bypass that on the 07/08s. I have yet to test it to the point I can advise other to do it.
Also I second the easy in first then smash second on out!
Also I second the easy in first then smash second on out!
09-06-2012, 05:14 AM
#47
A 1.6 would be amazing for me, hell im fine with a 1.7 . I think Andre(longassnumber) on here managed to cut a 1.5 60' but messed up during the run, his best e.t was 12.5 with a 1.696 60' . 3.9 gear, slicks, test pipes, flywheel, tune.
The dude dissapeared, I really wanted to know who tuned that thing.
I shal not dissapoint, im looking to improve by a lot next time I go. when the weather cools down a bit.
The dude dissapeared, I really wanted to know who tuned that thing.
I shal not dissapoint, im looking to improve by a lot next time I go. when the weather cools down a bit.
Oh and btw to do a burn out I pull the ABS fuse in the hidden fuse compartment behind the battery , the one where you have to remove a bunch of plastic to get to it. Reason I don't like it is I lose power steering, speedometer, and odometer stops counting , plus its a b!tch to get to. Is there a fuse in the box by the pedals thatvi can pull that will let me power brake?
09-06-2012, 05:26 AM
#49
The best way to bypass the brake override and allow burnouts is to intercept the brake signal to the ECU (pin 101 I believe on a DE). I installed a switch on mine. That way, ABS and brake lights still work.
Redline, didn't realize you were on slicks. Disregard my street tires comment. Light those bitches up as alberto described. jab the brakes to keep the rear from kicking out... you can get sideways real quick otherwise. Once you feel the forward push let go. (If you can't keep it straight you need your rear toe checked out)
Redline, didn't realize you were on slicks. Disregard my street tires comment. Light those bitches up as alberto described. jab the brakes to keep the rear from kicking out... you can get sideways real quick otherwise. Once you feel the forward push let go. (If you can't keep it straight you need your rear toe checked out)
Last edited by djamps; 09-06-2012 at 05:35 AM.
09-06-2012, 06:06 AM
#50
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Thread Starter
Yea I wanna install a switch, pulling fuses is annoying lol.
I'll def be practicing my burnout, thanks for the advice guys. Still find it a bit nerve racking since its very new to me on slicks.
Im gonna be on stock rear suspension next time as well so camber will be much more launch friendly.
I'll def be practicing my burnout, thanks for the advice guys. Still find it a bit nerve racking since its very new to me on slicks.
Im gonna be on stock rear suspension next time as well so camber will be much more launch friendly.
09-06-2012, 07:14 AM
#51
Pulling the brake light rise takes 15 seconds. Don't forget to put it back for the drive home!
Ideally you want to run as much tire pressure as possible while not spinning too much. I'd start at 20psi and drop down 1lb on slicks. Take cold pressure and then hot pressures after the runs as you will likely be making hot adjustments after your first run.
Ideally you want to run as much tire pressure as possible while not spinning too much. I'd start at 20psi and drop down 1lb on slicks. Take cold pressure and then hot pressures after the runs as you will likely be making hot adjustments after your first run.
09-06-2012, 09:28 AM
#52
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never really thought that far into tire pressures, thanks. So for example I'll start out at a cold 20 psi after heating them up and doing my first pass they will probably rise a psi or two huh? which I would then lower back down to what I had them set at when cold
09-06-2012, 01:17 PM
#53
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The best way to bypass the brake override and allow burnouts is to intercept the brake signal to the ECU (pin 101 I believe on a DE). I installed a switch on mine. That way, ABS and brake lights still work.
Redline, didn't realize you were on slicks. Disregard my street tires comment. Light those bitches up as alberto described. jab the brakes to keep the rear from kicking out... you can get sideways real quick otherwise. Once you feel the forward push let go. (If you can't keep it straight you need your rear toe checked out)
Redline, didn't realize you were on slicks. Disregard my street tires comment. Light those bitches up as alberto described. jab the brakes to keep the rear from kicking out... you can get sideways real quick otherwise. Once you feel the forward push let go. (If you can't keep it straight you need your rear toe checked out)
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