tashi

iTrader: (1)

any idea?

aaronlosey

iTrader: (1)

we tossed in a hydraulic ebrake assembly, mounted next to the passengers leg on the transmission tunnel. it ends up being just a few inches from the shifter, mounted so the lever is verticle, for super easy reach. you run the rear brake lines though the assembly, and it uses the disk brakes as an ebrake. works pretty well, isn't too complex, and confuses people. everyone thinks its a staging brake for drag racing.

i burnt my regular ebrake out long ago.....

eat rice z33

iTrader: (11)

omg pics and more info!!

konspec

iTrader: (4)

http://www.csp-shop.de/products/10401a.html

Does the brake look like this. I've seen this installed on a few rX7 drift cars. Post up how the plumbing works

dank311

iTrader: (8)

yea, im sure alot of us here would love to see the install of this ebrake system. I myself have strayed away from using the ebrake for initiation and try not to use it too much while drifting anymore. But at times it can help out alot in mid drift. If the ebrake wasnt soo weak, i would probably use it alot more. Any suggestions on making the stock ebrake stronger? I dont want to have to install another lever in my car. Let me know if there is anything else out there that can help this out.

aaronlosey

iTrader: (1)

yup, that one is very similar to the one i have. it has a little quirk with using the foot brake and the ebrake at the same time, due to the design, but this can be worked out. its really cool though, and makes reaching for the ebrake easier, as well as better brake bite than the stock setup. the install isn't very difficult, and it isn't obtrusive at all inside the car. i really like mine.

tashi

iTrader: (1)

i only want to strengthen my stock hand brake, my Z is my daily car also, not only for drift.

any idea????

aaronlosey

iTrader: (1)

well the additional handle doesn't intrude at all if placed well, and won't affect the nature of the car. i still daily drive mine, and love that little handle, i call it the fun lever : ) it gets used alot.

things such as lsd diffs will detract from the daily drivability of the car far less than the extra ebrake.



however, if you just want to do the ebrake thats already in the car, take out the ash tray and look underneath it. you will find a long threaded bolt with a nut on it. you tighten this nut down and it tightens the ebrake cable taking out the slack, this will make the handle engage better. this trick only lasted temporarily for me though, and soon my ebrakes started to suck again. from there, get a set of project mu ebrake pads for the car.

actually, i might be getting ahead of myself, as i'm not sure the brake differences between all the models. do the brembo brakes you an internal drum brake for the ebrake? anyways, i have the base model z, so i have the cheaper brakes, and these do have an internal drum brake, which could use some better brake shoes inside.

tashi

iTrader: (1)

can you omg pics?? and thanks

tashi

iTrader: (1)

mine is track model.....had bembroack

zfastest

Like Aaron said, if you aren't looking to install and mess with brake lines, I'd highly reccomend the Project Mu drum shoes for the rear drum component. In every Z I have seen the drum unit engages with the Ebrake handle (except Aaron with his slick trick drift stick).

http://www.splparts.com/Parts/Nissan...ds/default.asp

Go to the bottom of that page, SPL carries the "drift spec" Z33 drum shoes. It took a while to get mine "bedded in" after installing them, but after that happened, and I tightened up the little nut under the ash tray, it works like a champ and locks the rear wheels VERY effectively, albeit requires much more physical effort then a hydralic ebrake.

If you wanted to get serious about doing it this way, you could do like I did and fab up an extension bar (for more leverage and get it closer to the shifter) to the existing ebrake handle and disable the click-locking mechanism.

Happy drifting.

dank311

iTrader: (8)

Hey

What are the advantages/disadvantages to both of these ebrake setups? It seems like running all the lines like Aaron seems to be more work. But does this neccessarily work better? I dont mind putting forth the effort to have a ebrake like my old 240sx.
It seems like the project Mu drum upgrade could be a nice upgrade as well though. For only $180, it doesnt seam like its a bad idea. How is its effectiveness?, or how big of a difference does these Mu drums increase strength? I could really use some more input on both of these setups and their advantages/disadvantages over one another...
Thanks

eat rice z33

iTrader: (11)

ii would like pics of the hydraulic setup in a car, and how did you tap into the hydro lines?

tashi

iTrader: (1)

me 2

aaronlosey

iTrader: (1)

i will eventually go take pictures of the setup, i have to go find my camera first though.

if your just looking to strenthen your ebrake, go with the project moooo setup. the setup i have was installed as it makes the ebrake easier to operate by making the handle location ideal, plus, it works off the stronger disk brakes, which won't fade. i had horrible ebrake fade when it worked. i could only pull the handle once or twice every ten minutes or so, when it was at its best. sometimes in a wacky corner, such as npr in lousiana, i want to use the ebrake several times in the first wierd entry section. i just couldn't depend on mine as it would fade away super quickly, and we run that track in 5 lap sessions.


anyways, i guess i will go get pics.

tashi

iTrader: (1)

Project Mu sport rear brake shoes


Provides high initial brake torque when using e-brakes to lock up rear wheels, for autocross or drifting.

for bembro brake or normal brake????

dank311

iTrader: (8)

If you install the hydraulic ebrake, do you still have to press in the clutch for it to lock up? It seems alot of the time when I use my ebrake, I end up also doing a "weak" clutch kick, when I release the clutch. I really dont use my ebrake too often just b/c it doesnt work to well as other techniques I like using (feint, clutch kick, power over). Can someone please explain to me in more detail why the clutch has to be pressed in while ebraking? It seems sometimes when I let up the clutch it spins me out b/c after I use the ebrake to initiate, releasing the clutch is almost too much, or too much of a power surge, and I end up spinning out. Maybe I just need to shorten the time Im using the ebrake? Any suggestions??? I would like to start using all the techniques and this is just one I need more practice on. Any helpful suggestions/advice would be appreciated!

Anyways, How much is this hydraulic setup compared to the Mu shoes? The mu shoes being around $180 from SPL. Can these shoes wear down after alot of drift use? If so, how long will they last? I usually do at least one drift day event a month.

eat rice z33

iTrader: (11)

hey dank, well let me try to help ya on you rdilema, in order to set your drift there are many ways in which you can do it. in our RWD cars ebrake is usually only used as a last resort to prolong the drift so lets say, you dont steer into a gaurd rail! I would try to tune your whole car for drift if thats your goal, that way you may acheive your drift angle by either the feinting method(less abuse on any parts), or the clutch kick method. The reason your ebrake feels stronger when the clutch is in is just because your not trying to fight the engine! I see you do drift days so perhaps you shouuld look into tuning your camber and toe settings as well as getting a suspension system that has very hard initial response on the dampers for drifting. that way when you feint and want to slide the back end, the damper breaks it out for ya! instead of it absorbing the energy. Hope i helped you out!

dank311

iTrader: (8)

Hey eat rize Z33...

I am no beginner by any means. But not on a professional level yet either...My suspension is pretty much fully modified with adjustable parts. I already have set up my alignment for drift, as well as other parts. I have been drifting on and off for about 2 years now. I can execute most drift techniques, but I was talking directly about using the ebrake for initiation on the Z33 of course. The Z33 ebrake is very weak, even with the cable tightened. That why I was looking into upgrades. Currently I dont use the ebrake very often b/c of its weakness. Now, if it was on par with my S14 (240sx), this would be a different story. I would like to be able to use the ebrake for extending drifts, correcting angle in mid drifts, and intiation of course. I dont like to rely on the ebrake by any means, but I would like to know that I could use it more often for the reasons stated above, especially when heading towards a guard rail like you stated. But right now, I feel like the current ebrake setup isnt enough to rely on.

Now to my questions about ebrake and clutch being pressed in. The reason I ask, is b/c I see most drifters press in the clutch while using the ebrake for intiation. But in some of the videos I watch (w/ in car views), some drifters will lightly pull up the ebrake to correct their line w/o pressing in the clutch. But, then again these arent Z33's...mostly 240sx, and of course different ebrake setups. So I was wondering, what is the main reason the press in the clutch for using the ebrake? I have heard that it can mess up the differential if using the ebrake w/o pressing the clutch in...but I have no real data to back this up.
Basically, Im just trying to get more familiar with using the ebrake in different situations b/c I like trying new things and trying out all the techniques so my experience can be well rounded.

tashi

iTrader: (1)

Project Mu sport rear brake shoes

who can tell me this is for brembo or noraml ?????