Official My350Z drift thread - Post pics of YOU drifting!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Concord, NC
Yea, I totally agree with you guys. It's def my next purchase. Any advice on which set I should go with? On a side note, one of my friends has his TIEN springs for his G35 sedan for sale, only $50. Should I get those and will they fit on the Z?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 205
Likes: 4
From: Rockford, IL
G springs will fit, but they won't lower the Z very much so why bother. You'll be happy you spent $50 to "lower your car", but the results won't be there.
Get a set of Stance and be done with it. I think THMotorsports.com has a set.
But as for me, I hit an event last Saturday with Midwest Drift Union. Too bad the Z is at Project X getting some much desired power upgrades so I had to take the DD S14 I picked up a week before the event.
A week till the event I welded the diff, bought/installed coilovers, installed some spare wheels from the Z, bought/installed cnc staging brake, did some maintenance to the car and drove it out to ohio.
Halfway through the event the diff started acting funny then after a tire drop, it went open. The welds had broke (oops, not enough welding
)
So I tried to drive it home and made it about 30min. away when the diff locked up on the highway. I had it AAA to Indianapolis where some friends live and I'm getting ready to leave right now to go get it and put in another diff. I'll get some pictures of the carnage cause I'm really curious to see what happened.
Anyway...
3rd gear entry with maybe 100hp sucks. I wasn't even getting up to speed for the first corner. I missed the Z SSSOOOOO bad.
Get a set of Stance and be done with it. I think THMotorsports.com has a set.
But as for me, I hit an event last Saturday with Midwest Drift Union. Too bad the Z is at Project X getting some much desired power upgrades so I had to take the DD S14 I picked up a week before the event.
A week till the event I welded the diff, bought/installed coilovers, installed some spare wheels from the Z, bought/installed cnc staging brake, did some maintenance to the car and drove it out to ohio.
Halfway through the event the diff started acting funny then after a tire drop, it went open. The welds had broke (oops, not enough welding
)So I tried to drive it home and made it about 30min. away when the diff locked up on the highway. I had it AAA to Indianapolis where some friends live and I'm getting ready to leave right now to go get it and put in another diff. I'll get some pictures of the carnage cause I'm really curious to see what happened.
Anyway...
3rd gear entry with maybe 100hp sucks. I wasn't even getting up to speed for the first corner. I missed the Z SSSOOOOO bad.
Last edited by Nackers; Apr 23, 2010 at 08:13 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 205
Likes: 4
From: Rockford, IL
It seems that the diff is still good so I'm going to re-weld it (much better this time) and keep it for a backup. All the metal that came up were my plates that I welded in there. 2"x2" plates reduced to shavings... crazy.
Welding a 240 diff - I have seen this many times....
you need to weld it to the point of deforming the gears so that it never breaks to "open"
however, welding a 240 diff takes forever, because done right, you need to do minor tack welds to hold where you want - THEN ---> you need to weld like crazy at one spot then STOP..........let the entire thing cool, which takes a long time, then weld again at another spot.............wait, let the entire thing cool.........and repeat till you get the weld job from hell
the waiting process keeps the heat down and from warping/ruining shims, etc - doing it this way is what keeps the diff from being noisy and working silently.......along with deforming the gears keeps the diff from ever going "OPEN" diff again.
those that weld like crazy for 30 minutes straight always end up with noisy welded diffs....
-J
you need to weld it to the point of deforming the gears so that it never breaks to "open"
however, welding a 240 diff takes forever, because done right, you need to do minor tack welds to hold where you want - THEN ---> you need to weld like crazy at one spot then STOP..........let the entire thing cool, which takes a long time, then weld again at another spot.............wait, let the entire thing cool.........and repeat till you get the weld job from hell
the waiting process keeps the heat down and from warping/ruining shims, etc - doing it this way is what keeps the diff from being noisy and working silently.......along with deforming the gears keeps the diff from ever going "OPEN" diff again.
those that weld like crazy for 30 minutes straight always end up with noisy welded diffs....
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Apr 28, 2010 at 05:32 AM.
