HATED1

iTrader: (2)

SO i got the project mu ebrake inner shoes from Injected Perfromance, THANK YOU!! i got a question though. Just had them put on and also had the ebrake balance adjusted as well. How long does it take to break in the pads? As soon as i got them on i tried to slow down using the upgraded inner shoes to slow down at the light, but there wasn't that much bite. I know there is a layer of coating on the shoes that will eventually wear down, just wondering how long has this taken other folks? thanks for any replies.

Nackers

Mine never worked that well.

Even after mounting my 12" slip on tube to the handbrake, they only worked moderately. In comparison to whatever was in there (probably stock) they weren't any better with the tube. Then, shortly after, the cable snapped and I gutted the interior to weld it back together.

I will say, they do park the car quite well.


By the way, anyone want my tube? It may scratch your handbrake cover a bit, but its a tight slip fit and has a built in "drift button" sorta. It's a metal rod on the inside so once installed, holds the button down so it doesn't lock. PM me.




It's painted light blue and has been cleaned up and stuff.

HATED1

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the reply, anyone else?

MPD47

iTrader: (10)

Mine worked fine, but I did not enjoy readjusting them so I'm moving to a hydraulic setup this coming year. Plus with the way I had my seat mounted even with an extended lever like Nackers it was a bit of a pain to use. I much prefer having something like in a couple of rally cars I've been in which are mounted closer to the wheel.

That being said, I put the rear of the car in the air, and broke them in by doing several 60-0 ebrake stops until I could smell them, put some high airflow dyno fans on the rears, cooled them down, repeated. Seemed to bed them in nicely.

Nackers

You mean like this...



Perfect placement! That and its freaking cheap. Never again will one of my cars rely on a standard cable handbrake again. Hydro everything!

o.g.darkdrifter

iTrader: (2)

I got the P.mu brake shoes and they worked great for me. Locked the wheels up great. Some day I'll probably move to hydro ebrake but for now it works.

As far as breaking them in........ yeah I didn't do anything lol. I just took them out to an event and starting yanking the ebrake lol.

HATED1

iTrader: (2)

just a little update, been using the ebrake to brake at stop lights to "break it in" only been doing it for the past say 20 miles. I do notice more of a bite, not a lot more but def slows the vehicle down a couple miles. i'll update when there is better progress, need these broken in before April's event.

theianmcdougall

iTrader: (1)

i think ima just go straight for the hydro ebrake, its really not that expensive

o.g.darkdrifter

iTrader: (2)

You can get a hydro from PBM for about 220 which is around 40 dollars more than the p-Mu pads. A little bit more work to install but it doesn't seem too hard.

Hey Nackers, how is your hydro setup as far as the brake pedal feeling mushy while using the hydro ebrake? I hear that's the only major issue while using a non independent hyrdo.

MPD47

iTrader: (10)

I refused to tie it into my standard brake system on my car, so it was more expensive putting a second set of calipers on, having a set of brackets laser cut, etc.

HATED1

iTrader: (2)

So another 20 miles of stoplight ebraking and i can confidently say that it is locking up more aggresively, at one point i yanked the ebrake up with a bit more force and the rear tires locked up briefly for a second, needless to say i am happy. I do have rather grippy tires on the rear, so when i put on my drift spares i assume the rear will lock up better. I will keep on ebraking the lights to ensure that they are broken in. Now all i need is some seat time.

Nackers

All that is just a bunch of wussy girls crying.

It isn't mushy at all. Unless it's not bled properly. You do have conflicting interest when your pushing the foot brake and pulling the hand brake. They fight eachother a bit but when sliding I don't notice this at all.



You don't need a second caliper. Unless you want your ABS but then you can return to my first statement and try again. I wanted to do that originally cause I got discouraged by all the negative rep, but after doing it, its not bad. People make it seem 10x worse than it is or they didn't do it right.

But yea... I had considered working with Project X and THMotorsports in developing a bracket for a 240 caliper or something and producing replica's of my mount for the CNC staging brake with a small template for the hole in the shifter bezel, but eh. Neither would be very hard and it would limit you to just the CNC brake and whatever caliper we chose (240 I feel would be ideal cause the Project MU "drift" pads are cheap, although, with hydraulic setup pads don't really matter much). Not to mention you would still have to modify the chassis for the new brake lines added by drilling holes or notching the shifter hole in the trans tunnel. Not something we can really develop at the moment due to time and since demand isn't really there, not worth it.

However, you can look at my blog to see photos of my setup to copy it. It's pretty straight forward if you have any idea what your doing. And I do respond to my pm's so if you got any questions about my **** specifically, hit me up.



Sorry for thread jacking.


Brake shoes suck.

HATED1

iTrader: (2)

no prob, you got some good info and experience Nackers! teach us Obi Wan!

Lawn Dart

iTrader: (4)

I've been using the Project Mu e-brake shoes for about two years now. Usually, I adjust them before each event. They can lock the rears up no problem. I couldn't be happier.

SLIdEwAyZ25

iTrader: (1)

adjust them at the cable or the shoes themselfs?

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

........