Although i initiate sideways by flooring, i never attempted to pull ebrake to initiate drift. today i yanked the ebrake (clutch in) going straightaway, nothing happened except for slowing down a little. F** that. my first Drift event in like 26 days..
Can we put a separate brake cylinder just for hydro e brake then T off the brake line that attaches to the caliper so that we can keep ABS system? or we have to lose ABS with any form of hydro ebrake set up?
i thought project mu drum brake costs like $100. I realized that they go for $240...might as well spend little more and get hydro set up?
i know nothing bout brakes..sorry

 

https://my350z.com/forum/drift/28106...o-e-brake.html

 

tighten your brake shoes, and go to otis and get your handle extended.. works for us... And drifting in a Z, you really dont need it to initiate. Just kick the clutch and your golden

 

i have read pretty much all the posts about hydro e brake. my brain can't follow what they say exactly though. so jason found a way to use hydro e brake without losing ABS? Is there a short summary? Instead of that dual reservoir, i was thinking a separate single brake reservoir for hydro lines.

i didn't tighten the brake shoes but i did adjust the **** thing under the e brake. you eventually have to swap to project MU drum brake later on. Get new brake cable if they break. Why not start with hydro in the first place? i'm guessing, it's like $250 for hydro setup

 

to much to deal with for not needing it much... I dont use it initate, never have, never will, Its perfect for scrubbing speed off and adjusting your angle.. You can do a hyrdo setup, i just dont see the point if what im using is working just as good..

 

Don't you need to use the ebrake to initiate drift at a track like Adams where there are sharp turns?
How much did you spend to get the e brake extended?

 

Nope, Our cars are plenty *** happy and powerful enough.. Just message him for a price.

 

sorry to go OT, but what is the procedure for tighting the brake shoes/inner drum tension?

I read something about this a while a back, but never got a real explanation

 

I'm not sure what all this talk is about not needing a handbrake. I use mine all the time. Initiation, scrubbing speed, extending...

I personally believe handbrake initiations are one of the coolest parts of drifting. Coming up to a corner going way too fast flicking the wheel and pulling the handbrake. Then pulsing it to get the car to the proper speed in my opinion is way more difficult to get right and way cooler than just accelerating and clutch kicking. Sonoma was a great example of this.

Oh and my experience with project mu shoes I think they kinda suck. The whole factory unit sucks. I made a handle that slipped over the factory handbrake that would hold the release and had project mu shoes and though it worked, didn't work nearly as good as my inline hydraulic handbrake.

The only plus I see with going the route of aftermarket shoes is that you can keep your baby looking factory and nice. If your car isn't a dedicated track car or your able to be as competitive as you want to be with the factory setup I say congrats. However from my experience a hydraulic is the way to go. And according to FD rules you are supposed to have a dedicated caliper for the hydraulic handbrake system so that is going to be my next step.


Oh and touge racing: I'm not 100% but if I remember correctly you take the rear wheels off and there is a rubber plug in the rotor hat. Remove it and spin the rotor till you can see the adjustment ****. Spin it (not sure on the direction) and keep checking to make sure its not dragging by turning the rotor. Also, there is a 10mm bolt under the factory handbrake itself that is used for adjustment. If your doing a minor adjustment, just tighten that a little.

Either way, good luck guys.

 

^^if i didn't want ABS, then inline cnc staging brakes would be my choice. Because i want to keep ABS, i gotta go throw more headache
The biggest headache would be buying the brake lines, fittings, and balling ebrake lever that somehow i have to mount it to wilwood pedal assy.
If you help me out Nakers, i'll go hydro !

 

^ i should have been more descriptive, but he hasnt had a drift day yet and has never drifted so im trying to not have him hack up his car. (just yet)

I had a piece angled and welded on mine, and with the line tight, and shoes adjusted, it locks up great ( for a while)

 

I mean, it is quite a bit of work doing the hydraulic setup and if you haven't driven yet I would suggest just going out in stock form and see how your car reacts to your driving. Then working from there.

I'm not always available for help but certainly whenever I am I'm more than happy to open up my little brain to anyone looking for pointers or whatever. If you decided to go with a hydraulic I would try to help best I could.

 

Great info, thanks nackers

 

I concur with Nackers. The project Mu shoes work for about one or two events of steady use. And even then, the lock up is no where near as aggresive as I'd like for scrubbing speed and/or extending a super early entry or aggresive radius corner. Don't get me wrong I love clutch kicking (coming from a corolla), but having every tool at your disposal helps you out a hell of a lot when you're trying to do really well on a challenging course layout or pull off some insanely early entries.

I've been sliding my Z for 3 years now, it's not all that necessary to have when you're just starting out, but not having a good ebrake is really limiting me at this point. PBM SLC is in the works though.

 

I just received my wilwood MC and CNC handle n bracket.
Are fittings expensive? I need a 1/8-27 NTP to -4 fitting for the wilwood MC. maybe wilwood sells it for $11. Doesn't look like summit racing has them.

 

Hmm... I'm not very familiar with the fittings. Take it to like autozone or something (though I know they can be tools there) and see if they can help you get what you need.

 

i picked up the fitting from where i picked up my CNC brake. it was about $7.

 

Cool. Take photos of your process and make a thread about it when your done.

 

no one seems to be interested lol. i'll take pics just in case.
The way you Teed off the two original brake lines (in pass. wheel well) is what i have to do, right?
I might go with just T fitting if i can't find Y fittings. Can you show in your picture which direction the fluid flows? i need to know this if i use the y fittings.
thanks

 

I'm interested! If you get good results I will have to follow in your footseps