The Useless East Canada thread!
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new APR mirrors in!
Pretty decent build quality, better than I was expecting really. And including mounting hardware they only weigh 120g each. No idea what stock ones weigh. Hopefully 80lbs each.
Pretty decent build quality, better than I was expecting really. And including mounting hardware they only weigh 120g each. No idea what stock ones weigh. Hopefully 80lbs each.
I heard 4 lbs with motors for the mirrors.
You are so far ahead of me in the weight reduction game!
You need to make a parallel build thread to mine.
You are so far ahead of me in the weight reduction game!
You need to make a parallel build thread to mine.
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4lbs sounds about right. The blizzard stopped here so Ill go pull my passenger mirror off.
I need to get more power out of the car. I still don't even have a spacer or tune.
Also should look at a new flywheel. Clutch feels fine but might as well change it before it goes.
I need to get more power out of the car. I still don't even have a spacer or tune.
Also should look at a new flywheel. Clutch feels fine but might as well change it before it goes.
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To confirm, stock mirrors are 2.2lbs each.
The APR mirrors are comically smaller than stock. Like 1/4 the size lol. They belong on a civic more than a Z. Oh well, in the name of speed. At least they will be less drag too?
The APR mirrors are comically smaller than stock. Like 1/4 the size lol. They belong on a civic more than a Z. Oh well, in the name of speed. At least they will be less drag too?
You guys going to talk smack all day about, TMP, weight reduction and driving around the block or are you going to sign up for Frank's lapping day at Mosport.
I see only 1 350z on the list and that's me. It would be great to have a few more to keep things interesting.
I see only 1 350z on the list and that's me. It would be great to have a few more to keep things interesting.
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haha I would love to go out, but I have still yet to get a lap around MIR (missed last year events too) and Frank said I should wait until I do the CASC school. Next year!
Now I have to go trim my toenails, as that is technically "front end weight" :P
Now I have to go trim my toenails, as that is technically "front end weight" :P
Saturday, July 28, 2012
Venue: Mosport
Ontario Time Attack MIR School at Mosport Grand Prix Track
Mosport is a very intimidating track and has a way of keeping people in check anyway when they start out. The problems start when you get over-confident, having an off there generally has bigger consequences.
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Ian runs a good course, I took the autox course years ago. They also have a cool winter car control course that should be mandatory for all new drivers IMO.
CASC runs a 2 day school at DDT in May. Not sure on cost yet or how it compares to others, but they put a lot of development into it.
CASC runs a 2 day school at DDT in May. Not sure on cost yet or how it compares to others, but they put a lot of development into it.
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Ian runs a good course, I took the autox course years ago. They also have a cool winter car control course that should be mandatory for all new drivers IMO.
CASC runs a 2 day school at DDT in May. Not sure on cost yet or how it compares to others, but they put a lot of development into it.
CASC runs a 2 day school at DDT in May. Not sure on cost yet or how it compares to others, but they put a lot of development into it.
Looks good.
For anyone considering this mod make sure there is no paint on the lug nut seats. I almost lost a wheel within 1 lap of hard driving at the DDT when I used the OEM wheels that the previous owner had painted. Fortunately I felt the vibration develop before I lost the wheel.
For anyone considering this mod make sure there is no paint on the lug nut seats. I almost lost a wheel within 1 lap of hard driving at the DDT when I used the OEM wheels that the previous owner had painted. Fortunately I felt the vibration develop before I lost the wheel.
From what I have read its a really painful install. Did you use the long threaded rod way to torque it in? Or just pound on it with a hammer?
The wheels are a bit of a gag, but thats what is great about racecars, you can do anything with them. I basically just cleaned them (kind of), scuffed them up (kind of), used a deck of cards in between the tire and rim, and sprayed them with some no name rattle can. Assuming I get all 4 done on 1 can it would cost about $8 total.
EDIT
There are a few runs in the paint but mostly from me being careless, not the spray itself. Heres another angle. They will be blinding bright in the summer sun.
The wheels are a bit of a gag, but thats what is great about racecars, you can do anything with them. I basically just cleaned them (kind of), scuffed them up (kind of), used a deck of cards in between the tire and rim, and sprayed them with some no name rattle can. Assuming I get all 4 done on 1 can it would cost about $8 total.
EDIT
There are a few runs in the paint but mostly from me being careless, not the spray itself. Heres another angle. They will be blinding bright in the summer sun.
Rob
I'll be doing this mod later this week. Is it a straight cut away or did you have to deal with spot welds or adhesive to get the inner structure away from the hood?
Matt
I'll be doing this mod later this week. Is it a straight cut away or did you have to deal with spot welds or adhesive to get the inner structure away from the hood?
Matt
I think I just don't notice it anymore. But when I do, its usually some big *** pickup truck that I could probably fit my car under. I generally don't play along, as tend to drive like an old lady lol
Thanks to Judd and his awful paint job, and I had a spare hood to ruin!
8lbs of metal came out, plus probably 2 or 3 with the latch system. Hood is a little more flimsy but I left a good "border" as you can see its not bad really. With 2 pins vs 1 latch I think it will be just fine.
Thanks to Judd and his awful paint job, and I had a spare hood to ruin!
8lbs of metal came out, plus probably 2 or 3 with the latch system. Hood is a little more flimsy but I left a good "border" as you can see its not bad really. With 2 pins vs 1 latch I think it will be just fine.
Nice work on the splitter. Did you vacuum bag it?
I've cut a splitter out of 1/2 ply. Maybe at bit agricultural but I plan to paint it black and run it until I sort out how much damage will be done on the curbing etc.
I'll be running at just under stock ride height with 20kg springs in the front and 18kg in the rear so hopefully it wont rub too much through turn 2 at mosport.
I've used these guys in the past for carbon, glass and core materials. I was thinking of trying core-cell for the splitter but it's expensive.
http://www.noahsboatbuilding.com/ite...=COMPOSITE&Bc=
There also used to be a place called Fiber Glass Factory Outlet but I haven't been there recently.
http://www.buyimporter.com/1006/?id=...ory-outlet-inc
I've cut a splitter out of 1/2 ply. Maybe at bit agricultural but I plan to paint it black and run it until I sort out how much damage will be done on the curbing etc.
I'll be running at just under stock ride height with 20kg springs in the front and 18kg in the rear so hopefully it wont rub too much through turn 2 at mosport.
I've used these guys in the past for carbon, glass and core materials. I was thinking of trying core-cell for the splitter but it's expensive.
http://www.noahsboatbuilding.com/ite...=COMPOSITE&Bc=
There also used to be a place called Fiber Glass Factory Outlet but I haven't been there recently.
http://www.buyimporter.com/1006/?id=...ory-outlet-inc
Core is Oak. Technically Balsa wood would have been better as it bonds to resins better, but I have no idea where to get it.
Aluminate is a good material to use. A lot of guys run just that, it takes a little more abuse than plain wood. No idea what its like to work with though. There are some honeycomb options out there they use in aircraft, but I have heard mix reviews. Kognition uses a foam core now
http://www.kognitiondesign.com/foam_core_cutaway.jpg
Heres how the general shape works on mine. It gives enough room for the wheels to turn (the OEM ones anyway, i'll be pissed if the 265 tires dont lol), and goes back to just past the oil pan I believe. Right near frame.
Goal is to mount it twice at the back, twice near the front but wide, probably to the rad support, and then have two support rods go from the very front through the bumper, and attach to the crash bar (actual bumper). Thats the plan anyway.
And here is a shot of Sasha's 240 using aluminate.
Aluminate is a good material to use. A lot of guys run just that, it takes a little more abuse than plain wood. No idea what its like to work with though. There are some honeycomb options out there they use in aircraft, but I have heard mix reviews. Kognition uses a foam core now
http://www.kognitiondesign.com/foam_core_cutaway.jpg
Heres how the general shape works on mine. It gives enough room for the wheels to turn (the OEM ones anyway, i'll be pissed if the 265 tires dont lol), and goes back to just past the oil pan I believe. Right near frame.
Goal is to mount it twice at the back, twice near the front but wide, probably to the rad support, and then have two support rods go from the very front through the bumper, and attach to the crash bar (actual bumper). Thats the plan anyway.
And here is a shot of Sasha's 240 using aluminate.
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Hey Matt,
re: wheel, thanks for the tip. I didn't paint much in the seats anyway since I assumed it would all come off once I torqued down lugs the first time. I will double check that they are clean though!
The hood was a straight cut yes. At the top I had to "go around" the part that the latch attaches to. So if you don't mind cutting that close to the front of the hood, about 1/4in, then once you do that you just start pulling. Every black spot on mine was a rubber and glue thing. I used tin snips and a dremel, but an angle grinder would make shorter work of it.
The splitter was not bagged as I don't have a compressor, however its just one layer and I didn't go crazy with resin, so there isn't too much extra to suck out. If/when I make another, I think I will use a proper foam core. It will cost a bit more but will be a lot lighter. I think the wood was 7 or 8lbs.
Im at stock ride height with stock springs. I think turn 5a is the only real concern, and maybe some of the taller rumbles at SMP. I sticks out about 4in, sits about 1/2 lower, and at 100lbs of neg lift brings my front end down another 1/4in. That said theres a lot of room out front on my stock 4x4 ride height haha.
Composites Canada in Mississauga carries fabric, resins, cores, etc. Not sure how their prices compare though.
What kind of weight are you shooting for? I think my goal in CCDB was 2960 with full tank of gas. I can put my 45lb passenger seat back in if I get too low.
re: wheel, thanks for the tip. I didn't paint much in the seats anyway since I assumed it would all come off once I torqued down lugs the first time. I will double check that they are clean though!
The hood was a straight cut yes. At the top I had to "go around" the part that the latch attaches to. So if you don't mind cutting that close to the front of the hood, about 1/4in, then once you do that you just start pulling. Every black spot on mine was a rubber and glue thing. I used tin snips and a dremel, but an angle grinder would make shorter work of it.
The splitter was not bagged as I don't have a compressor, however its just one layer and I didn't go crazy with resin, so there isn't too much extra to suck out. If/when I make another, I think I will use a proper foam core. It will cost a bit more but will be a lot lighter. I think the wood was 7 or 8lbs.
Im at stock ride height with stock springs. I think turn 5a is the only real concern, and maybe some of the taller rumbles at SMP. I sticks out about 4in, sits about 1/2 lower, and at 100lbs of neg lift brings my front end down another 1/4in. That said theres a lot of room out front on my stock 4x4 ride height haha.
Composites Canada in Mississauga carries fabric, resins, cores, etc. Not sure how their prices compare though.
What kind of weight are you shooting for? I think my goal in CCDB was 2960 with full tank of gas. I can put my 45lb passenger seat back in if I get too low.
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Looking forward to the new shop... Only reason I went to APH was because of the honest and great dealings with Ed... and cause I saw reviews and posting on this site, otherwise I'd have no idea and be making trips all the way to Simone's....
Hi everyone, like Churchill said, they couldn't fired a shareholder. there hv been too many issues I m having with my business partners there and I have made up a decision to move on.
As all of you know, I haven't been coming to this forum as frequent as before lately. Not because I got tired from the Z. But i heard weird things my partners was talking behind me while I was promoting our services here. Some wording he uses "garbage, useless, rubbish" or whatever. That's was almost 2 yrs ago anyways, and I decide to stop posting new thread here and see how well his marketing skills are.
Our cold war begins then and it finally ended on feb15 this yr. I m not the kinda guy that know how to express my own feelings. But I m confident enuf to let all you know, this splitting act has given me the biggest relief ever. Even though I lost quite a bit of money from this split, but I m not regretting and promise you all our new shop will def. provide faster and better service than before.
Now, I m setting up a new shop only couple minutes from my existing place. Here are more details.
Automatrix Auto Service Center
Unit 3- 22 Ingram Drive, Toronto, M6M2L6
Tel 647-361-7720
Fax 647-361-7723
Cel 647-361-7520
Expecting grand opening in April 2012
As all of you know, I haven't been coming to this forum as frequent as before lately. Not because I got tired from the Z. But i heard weird things my partners was talking behind me while I was promoting our services here. Some wording he uses "garbage, useless, rubbish" or whatever. That's was almost 2 yrs ago anyways, and I decide to stop posting new thread here and see how well his marketing skills are.
Our cold war begins then and it finally ended on feb15 this yr. I m not the kinda guy that know how to express my own feelings. But I m confident enuf to let all you know, this splitting act has given me the biggest relief ever. Even though I lost quite a bit of money from this split, but I m not regretting and promise you all our new shop will def. provide faster and better service than before.
Now, I m setting up a new shop only couple minutes from my existing place. Here are more details.
Automatrix Auto Service Center
Unit 3- 22 Ingram Drive, Toronto, M6M2L6
Tel 647-361-7720
Fax 647-361-7723
Cel 647-361-7520
Expecting grand opening in April 2012