NOob Question about Driving a Manual~
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#23
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FYI: my z was my first manual car as well (and first RWD car actually). i stalled it hundreds of times, grinded my gears lots of times, downshifted past max rpm a few times, and i turned out alright. it really is all about learning from your mistakes and getting used to it from experience.
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this guy is learning to drive stick and youre telling him to downshift into 2nd @ 90km/h??
yeah Id wait with this one till you become a little more experianced
take turns in 2nd, downshift before the turn so you dont have to worry about it while in the middle of your turn, keep practicing and youll be just fine
yeah Id wait with this one till you become a little more experianced
take turns in 2nd, downshift before the turn so you dont have to worry about it while in the middle of your turn, keep practicing and youll be just fine
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Ill agree with you, 1st is only for starting, maybe some parking lot carefull driving I dont know I say use 2nd once in motion, there will be times when you do have to use 1st though, should be quite obvious when
#26
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Shift at about 3000rpm as most have said, taking turns, you should be in 2nd, or 3rd gear, never higher. You can shift into 1st when the car is moving if you revmatch, from what I can recall, this is because 1st gear has no synchro, so you have to do your own work to get it in. I would not recommend you try until you can revmatch well though.
Either way, it takes some work to drive these cars smoothly. Due to the grabby-ness of the clutch and boatloads of torque, you have to get back on the gas immediately after shifting on upshifts, or you'll feel a jolt as the power kicks back in. Downshifts become super smooth once you learn to rev-match.
This is more something to note after you already get pretty good at driving stick, I would not try implementing it all quite yet. For now focus not stalling, not riding the clutch on take off and shifts and not putting the car in a wall. When I say not riding the clutch on shifts, I mean, clutch goes in, change gears, clutch goes out. You don't smooth out the shift with the clutch. I used to do that too when I was really n00b. It's everyone's instinct to do that to make shifts smoother, but it rapes the clutch. Live with the rough downshifts for now, until you can rev-match, then you'll have smooth shifts + normal clutch wear.
Either way, it takes some work to drive these cars smoothly. Due to the grabby-ness of the clutch and boatloads of torque, you have to get back on the gas immediately after shifting on upshifts, or you'll feel a jolt as the power kicks back in. Downshifts become super smooth once you learn to rev-match.
This is more something to note after you already get pretty good at driving stick, I would not try implementing it all quite yet. For now focus not stalling, not riding the clutch on take off and shifts and not putting the car in a wall. When I say not riding the clutch on shifts, I mean, clutch goes in, change gears, clutch goes out. You don't smooth out the shift with the clutch. I used to do that too when I was really n00b. It's everyone's instinct to do that to make shifts smoother, but it rapes the clutch. Live with the rough downshifts for now, until you can rev-match, then you'll have smooth shifts + normal clutch wear.
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I would recommend a few lessons on manual driving with Young Drivers of Canada.
It'll probably help you understand the basics better - instead of trying to read about it.
It'll probably help you understand the basics better - instead of trying to read about it.
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prior to picking up my z, i took 2 hours of in-car lessons with young drivers. it was beneficial to the extent of learning how to engage the gear, that's pretty much it. i suppose if i had purchased more hours, it may have helped in other areas (like the topic of this thread).
#33
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It means you're going too slow for 4th. Now next time you know you could have made that turn one gear lower.
Usually, you'll probably be in 3rd going into a turn off a green. 4th is too high for an everyday turn around the block. It totally depends on your speed though. I'm just giving an example. You'll want to be in third BEFORE you turn. If you're going too slow for 4th, it will be easy to get it into 3rd without jumping rpms. If you're going slow enough, it will drop into 3rd like butter.
Don't drop into first (mostly never) and for now only drop it to 2nd when the car is rolling under it's on momentum (cautious turning, rolling off a stop).
Once you get a hang of where the car feels comfortable in each gear. Then you can push your learning some more. For now just concentrate on dropping one gear at a time without having the car jolt from having to catch up on the rpms.
Usually, you'll probably be in 3rd going into a turn off a green. 4th is too high for an everyday turn around the block. It totally depends on your speed though. I'm just giving an example. You'll want to be in third BEFORE you turn. If you're going too slow for 4th, it will be easy to get it into 3rd without jumping rpms. If you're going slow enough, it will drop into 3rd like butter.
Don't drop into first (mostly never) and for now only drop it to 2nd when the car is rolling under it's on momentum (cautious turning, rolling off a stop).
Once you get a hang of where the car feels comfortable in each gear. Then you can push your learning some more. For now just concentrate on dropping one gear at a time without having the car jolt from having to catch up on the rpms.
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+1
my advice is to drive between 2000 and 3000 rpms. start in first, when u go over 3000, shift up. do this until you reach the speed you want to. don't be a hurry to shift AS SOON as it passes 3000, you have lots of time - this is just a guideline.
for downshifting, do the reverse. as the rpm's fall when you slow down, if they pass 2000, shift down. shifting down below 2000 is pretty easy, and you don't even have to worry about rev matching much because the engine isn't as hard on the clutch at this speed than shifting down from other speeds (e.g. 4500).
do that until you're comfortable knowing when to shift without looking at the tach (the engine sound, vibration of the car will be your guide).
good luck
my advice is to drive between 2000 and 3000 rpms. start in first, when u go over 3000, shift up. do this until you reach the speed you want to. don't be a hurry to shift AS SOON as it passes 3000, you have lots of time - this is just a guideline.
for downshifting, do the reverse. as the rpm's fall when you slow down, if they pass 2000, shift down. shifting down below 2000 is pretty easy, and you don't even have to worry about rev matching much because the engine isn't as hard on the clutch at this speed than shifting down from other speeds (e.g. 4500).
do that until you're comfortable knowing when to shift without looking at the tach (the engine sound, vibration of the car will be your guide).
good luck
#35
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Shift at about 3000rpm as most have said, taking turns, you should be in 2nd, or 3rd gear, never higher. You can shift into 1st when the car is moving if you revmatch, from what I can recall, this is because 1st gear has no synchro, so you have to do your own work to get it in. I would not recommend you try until you can revmatch well though.
Either way, it takes some work to drive these cars smoothly. Due to the grabby-ness of the clutch and boatloads of torque, you have to get back on the gas immediately after shifting on upshifts, or you'll feel a jolt as the power kicks back in. Downshifts become super smooth once you learn to rev-match.
This is more something to note after you already get pretty good at driving stick, I would not try implementing it all quite yet. For now focus not stalling, not riding the clutch on take off and shifts and not putting the car in a wall. When I say not riding the clutch on shifts, I mean, clutch goes in, change gears, clutch goes out. You don't smooth out the shift with the clutch. I used to do that too when I was really n00b. It's everyone's instinct to do that to make shifts smoother, but it rapes the clutch. Live with the rough downshifts for now, until you can rev-match, then you'll have smooth shifts + normal clutch wear.
Either way, it takes some work to drive these cars smoothly. Due to the grabby-ness of the clutch and boatloads of torque, you have to get back on the gas immediately after shifting on upshifts, or you'll feel a jolt as the power kicks back in. Downshifts become super smooth once you learn to rev-match.
This is more something to note after you already get pretty good at driving stick, I would not try implementing it all quite yet. For now focus not stalling, not riding the clutch on take off and shifts and not putting the car in a wall. When I say not riding the clutch on shifts, I mean, clutch goes in, change gears, clutch goes out. You don't smooth out the shift with the clutch. I used to do that too when I was really n00b. It's everyone's instinct to do that to make shifts smoother, but it rapes the clutch. Live with the rough downshifts for now, until you can rev-match, then you'll have smooth shifts + normal clutch wear.
i don't really know if my i am riding the clutch or not...cos as a noob, i am not able to tell if i am doing the right thing or not...At this stage, i can take off without stalling, i can upshift(not quite smooth for something)....so when i upshift, do i quickly let off the clutch after shifting ? or let it off slowly? the owner's manual says, after shifting, let off the clutch slowly and smoothly, so i did the same thing. Is it riding the clutch?
#36
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prior to picking up my z, i took 2 hours of in-car lessons with young drivers. it was beneficial to the extent of learning how to engage the gear, that's pretty much it. i suppose if i had purchased more hours, it may have helped in other areas (like the topic of this thread).
i didn't know that they offer manual driving class tho.
when i picked up my Z, i had no previous experience of driving a stick...and u guys should know what happened on that day i picked up my Z from dealership...tons of stalls on the way back home...ppl were totally mad cos i blocked their way every time i stall... bad experience.
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how much do they charge you for the driving lesson?
i didn't know that they offer manual driving class tho.
when i picked up my Z, i had no previous experience of driving a stick...and u guys should know what happened on that day i picked up my Z from dealership...tons of stalls on the way back home...ppl were totally mad cos i blocked their way every time i stall... bad experience.
i didn't know that they offer manual driving class tho.
when i picked up my Z, i had no previous experience of driving a stick...and u guys should know what happened on that day i picked up my Z from dealership...tons of stalls on the way back home...ppl were totally mad cos i blocked their way every time i stall... bad experience.
btw, you can multi-quote responses in 1 reply by hitting the multi-quote button to the right of the quote button.
#38
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just go for a drive with someone whos been driving stick for a long time.. father? friend? they can sit next to you and observer, no need to spend money
#40
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how much do they charge you for the driving lesson?
i didn't know that they offer manual driving class tho.
when i picked up my Z, i had no previous experience of driving a stick...and u guys should know what happened on that day i picked up my Z from dealership...tons of stalls on the way back home...ppl were totally mad cos i blocked their way every time i stall... bad experience.
i didn't know that they offer manual driving class tho.
when i picked up my Z, i had no previous experience of driving a stick...and u guys should know what happened on that day i picked up my Z from dealership...tons of stalls on the way back home...ppl were totally mad cos i blocked their way every time i stall... bad experience.
You should seriously call YDC about that training course...
....'cus a z is a terrible thing to waste......