engine out again

 

Cylinders... nothing wrong with them!

 

intake parts

 

installing new Valve Springs

 

VTC parts:

 

Old Valves and retainers

 

Old cams (the ones with oil around them) and New Cams....

 

According to my engine builder:

It is necessary to change those valve springs as the standard one will get depressed entirely with those higher lift cams.... so you will need stronger valve springs as suggested by Nismo.

We are still sorting out the torque to the rod bolts now... there are 2 different sayings now...... 1. Stock torque (from Japan Source (from Nismo), 2. Torque suggested by the fax from Nismo Japan again...

will keep you guys posted!

I should have changed those pistons to 11.5:1 right now since it will only take about half an hour or so from here... but well... we can always have a next project to play with a year later, probably can adopt those 46cc nismo heads instead of the pistons...

cheers,

richie

 

Very nice, keep us updated.

 

Great Work! Can't wait to see your results!

 

Looks fantastic

Peter has some VQ35 forged rods and pistons at his workshop in Sydney, I dont know if he would want to sell them or not but i'd call him anyway as your engine is apart.

 

I JUST PM Peter to see if he is selling those parts.... it is a good idea to put in high compression pistons now though because it will only be a drop in job from here...

Also found out about the Nismo Spec. already.... quite complicated, it also depends on the angle degrees that we need to work on when tightening those.

Things are going a bit brighter from here now!!! Hope can have the car back soon... haven't driven it for over 1.5 months already!

cheers,

richie

 

Thats interesting regarding the bolts.

Have you seen the info regarding the crank sensor wire and the interference problem which might be causing some of the blown engines in the FI forum area?

Info regarding problem.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hreadid=104349

Group buy thread, though it wont be ready for a while.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hreadid=104798

You might want to think about this as it could affect you as well, and the last thing you want is a blown motor after all this. You might also want to consider using a similar wire for the cam sensor as well.

 

You might want to call Peter's workshop on monday and find out if he's back from his holiday. Otherwise you might not hear from him for a while.

 

Here is the info for the ARP rod bolts. Should be similar to the Nismo bolts (If you use the 500k psi ARP Moly lube).




When I installed mine I used a Snap On 3/8" Dial torque wrench to insure the best accuracy. The instructions also mention using a stretch guage as an option which isn't feasible for cap screw style rod bolts.

 

Thanks SR20DEN:

But nismo instruction is different from the ARP as they are different bolts.... therefore, they require different torque...

Nismo's tightening process involves some angles too...

Here is the japanese version of the instruction:

 

Thanks Murray:

Yes... I was awared of this problem as well... and also quite surprised that Nismo did not find this problem out regarding to the wire noise.... I am not too sure if MoTeC has covered this though because I don't know how the MoTeC is wired up with the standard ecu and the wires might have been changed which I am not too sure.... I will find out more about this on Monday and keep you guys updated!

Also if that's really the problem, wouldn't a normal engine get blown if the original design isn't good enough? Or any light tuned car might have the blown engine problem??? Don't really get why only FI engine gets blown now so far?

cheers,

richie

 

I will find out more about this on Monday and keep you guys updated!

Maybe print out the info from this site and show the guys who are working on your car so they can get a good idea about the problem. Its worth noting that APS did implement this change in their TT kit so there is definately an issue there.

Don't really get why only FI engine gets blown now so far?

I think because FI engines are running closer to the edge that any small error in fuel or spark delivery can cause major failure. If your car is tuned close to the edge then I don’t see why the same thing couldn’t happen to you as well.

The main reason why you should do this and a stock one doesnt need to worry is that you've put a lot more money into yours and the factory warranty covers a stock motor if it blows. So I’d do it just as a safety precaution to protect your investment.

 

Murray:

Spoke to Peter this morning and he has a set with a VERY GOOD PRICE, really tempting to get the set... but since my engine is back together this morning when I checked, so it will cost quite a lot to reverse it now.... also with higher compression pistons, I am afraid that the reliability of the engine might reduce significantly as higher compression isn't easy to tune, this might be prone to error than the APS TT. As for the crank angle sensor wires, I will get one just to be at the safe side!!!

I am happy with the VQ35S1 engine already because Nismo has done quite a lot of testing on this, even used the engine on the S-Tune GT.... so I guess the reliability shouldn't be too much of the problem while I can play with the 7200 rpm.

will keep you guys posted!

cheers,

richie

 

Oh well at least the option was there.

Yeah the 7200rpm redline should be good, you'll be pulling in first for a bit longer and after the shift you'll be higher in the power band pulling harder, so the dyno numbers wont tell the whole story. I hope you'll do some comparos with David once your back on the road so we can get a good idea of the differences its made. It should sound good too so maybe a film clip is needed.