Do yourself a favor and switch to Mobil 1
#23
Originally posted by G87z
Quick question on the mobil 1 oil filters. what cars are the 110 and the 105 for. 108 is the one they make for the 350. was just curious what cars the others were for.
Thanks
Quick question on the mobil 1 oil filters. what cars are the 110 and the 105 for. 108 is the one they make for the 350. was just curious what cars the others were for.
Thanks
Mobil-1 is certainly a fine choice for this engine, but you can do better. I realize the examples below are only one car each, but as you can see from these lab oil analysis results, here's a G35 owner using Mobil-1 who is getting clearly poorer results than I am:
G35 ON MOBIL-1
Notice the significantly elevated levels of Iron, Aluminum, and Lead while using M-1. Now compare that to mine (and at this point, my engine has only 10k miles vs. almost 15k in the above example, so mine should still be making more metal in comparison:
G35 ON GERMAN-MADE CASTROL SYNTEC
While I'm admittedly biased, these numbers are outstanding. Yes, I am very well aware of the truth about the American made versions of Syntec (it's a hydrocracked mineral-based oil passed off as a synthetic). I was using the German made variety which is available only in the 0w-30 grade. In the US you can pretty much only find it in Autozone stores (and you have to be careful if you're looking for it, as there is still older US made 0w-30 on the shelves too).
Also of note, despite what most people think when they see the "0w-" part of the rating, this oil is NOT "thinner" than a 5w or 10w oil. For example, all of the Mobil-1 30 wt products test out at about 10 cSt of viscosity at operating temp, whereas German Syntec scores out as around 12.5 cSt. It also has a HT/HS (high temp/high shear) viscosity rating of 3.6 while the Mobil products are all under 3.0. It runs very, very smoothly in the VQ.
#24
That right there sir is some pretty good info. I may have to look into the german made syntec. is there any specific way to tell if it is german made or US made 0w 30 syntec? does it say it right on the bottle?
Thanks for any more input you may have.
George
Thanks for any more input you may have.
George
#26
Dear Guys
I live is Saipan (Northern Mariana Island) near Guam Island
we had around 80 ~ 100 F 365 days a year
After I installation of APS TT kit I used 10W30 Castrol long life
but i had a tap noise from my right said bank Cam....
so now I'm useing Mobil1 15w50 Perfromance engine sound is Very Good....
What you Guys think ?????
I live is Saipan (Northern Mariana Island) near Guam Island
we had around 80 ~ 100 F 365 days a year
After I installation of APS TT kit I used 10W30 Castrol long life
but i had a tap noise from my right said bank Cam....
so now I'm useing Mobil1 15w50 Perfromance engine sound is Very Good....
What you Guys think ?????
#27
Originally posted by G87z
That right there sir is some pretty good info. I may have to look into the german made syntec. is there any specific way to tell if it is german made or US made 0w 30 syntec? does it say it right on the bottle?
Thanks for any more input you may have.
George
That right there sir is some pretty good info. I may have to look into the german made syntec. is there any specific way to tell if it is german made or US made 0w 30 syntec? does it say it right on the bottle?
Thanks for any more input you may have.
George
Last edited by Torkaholic; 12-21-2004 at 03:20 AM.
#28
Originally posted by zrdude
If you ask the dealer to add Mobil 1, how can you tell if they really used it to know that they didn't rip you off? Is it a different color or anything?
If you ask the dealer to add Mobil 1, how can you tell if they really used it to know that they didn't rip you off? Is it a different color or anything?
#29
Re: Do yourself a favor and switch to Mobil 1
Originally posted by BENJ-AMG
Since I live in an apt. complex and don't have access to ramps I decided to go to Wal Mart and have them do it for me.
Since I live in an apt. complex and don't have access to ramps I decided to go to Wal Mart and have them do it for me.
#30
Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.
George
George
#31
Originally posted by G87z
Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.
George
Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.
George
#32
Originally posted by D@ActiveTuning
Just because you don't have ramps, you can still do it yourself. My Z doesn't fit on ramps, just get jackstands, lift the front up, and go at it....it's super easy as the filter/oil pan are right there once you take that plastic underpanel diffuser off.
Just because you don't have ramps, you can still do it yourself. My Z doesn't fit on ramps, just get jackstands, lift the front up, and go at it....it's super easy as the filter/oil pan are right there once you take that plastic underpanel diffuser off.
I was able to drop the shield, remove the drain plug, swap the filter, etc solely by laying on the ground in front of the car. I do have long arms, though
#33
Originally posted by G87z
Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.
George
Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.
George
#34
Re: Re: Do yourself a favor and switch to Mobil 1
Originally posted by yobri
Ramps will run you about ~$20-25. I know how the apartment situation can be... no auto maintenance is allowed, et al... but I do my changes in the garage (door closed), so you might consider exercising this route as well
Ramps will run you about ~$20-25. I know how the apartment situation can be... no auto maintenance is allowed, et al... but I do my changes in the garage (door closed), so you might consider exercising this route as well
#35
Originally posted by MannishBoy
That is old school thinking. Lots of cars ship from the factory these days with Mobil 1 in the crankcase, including Vettes, AMG Mercedes, etc. A lot of people think there is some magic in allowing the rings to set on regular dino, but I've never had a problem with synthetic ASAP.
That is old school thinking. Lots of cars ship from the factory these days with Mobil 1 in the crankcase, including Vettes, AMG Mercedes, etc. A lot of people think there is some magic in allowing the rings to set on regular dino, but I've never had a problem with synthetic ASAP.
#36
Originally posted by chachi999999999
Don't use another filter than the Nissan filter. I was talking to the Nissan guys when I first got my car about changing to synthetic. They told me that mobil 1 synthetic was the best for the Z. Then I asked them about what oil filter. They said to stay with the nissan oem because it is specially designed for the Z, and that any other filter may not do as good of a job and may harm the motor in the long run.
Don't use another filter than the Nissan filter. I was talking to the Nissan guys when I first got my car about changing to synthetic. They told me that mobil 1 synthetic was the best for the Z. Then I asked them about what oil filter. They said to stay with the nissan oem because it is specially designed for the Z, and that any other filter may not do as good of a job and may harm the motor in the long run.
Well, I just finished dissecting a 65F00 Nissan OEM filter, and was shocked, and disappointed to see before my eyes that this filter is little better than a Fram with white paint on it. I say "little better" since at least the Nissan filter has an all-metal bypass, whereas the Fram has plastic. Well, see for yourself, here it is in all its cardboard endcap splendor. I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.
Here's the can of the just-cut filter:
Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:
Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:
And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:
You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.
Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)
I think those Nissan guys you were talking to need to go back to school. . .
Last edited by Torkaholic; 12-27-2004 at 07:09 PM.
#37
ive heard of a study that actually showed that synthetics are not good for the car. It didnt say anyting about mobil 1 if i remmeber correctly. anyone know of this study?
so whats the final word? mobil 1 or dino?
so whats the final word? mobil 1 or dino?
#38
Originally posted by nuttyprof
ive heard of a study that actually showed that synthetics are not good for the car. It didnt say anyting about mobil 1 if i remmeber correctly. anyone know of this study?
so whats the final word? mobil 1 or dino?
ive heard of a study that actually showed that synthetics are not good for the car. It didnt say anyting about mobil 1 if i remmeber correctly. anyone know of this study?
so whats the final word? mobil 1 or dino?
I've used synthetics for about 20 years now and I've never, ever seen any indication that syns are not "good for the car". In fact, come to think of it, I've never had a major component fail. Shoot, my engines look factory clean inside even when they get to over 150,000 miles. And on, and on.
Final word for me (for now anyway ) is the German made Castrol 0w-30 (not the US made phony syn stuff). I recently got back my first lab results on this oil taken from my relatively new VQ and the results verged on phenomenal. Have a look for yourself here . Other than slightly elevated copper (common in near-new engines), this is a fantastic result. You can't say this oil is "not good for the car".
#40
Originally posted by Torkaholic
I've heard a few folks say things like this about the filter that Nissan/Infiniti are currently recommending for the VQ35. But I've also heard some concerns expressed. I just had to know more. . .
Well, I just finished dissecting a 65F00 Nissan OEM filter, and was shocked, and disappointed to see before my eyes that this filter is little better than a Fram with white paint on it. I say "little better" since at least the Nissan filter has an all-metal bypass, whereas the Fram has plastic. Well, see for yourself, here it is in all its cardboard endcap splendor. I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.
Here's the can of the just-cut filter:
Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:
Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:
And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:
You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.
Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)
I think those Nissan guys you were talking to need to go back to school. . .
I've heard a few folks say things like this about the filter that Nissan/Infiniti are currently recommending for the VQ35. But I've also heard some concerns expressed. I just had to know more. . .
Well, I just finished dissecting a 65F00 Nissan OEM filter, and was shocked, and disappointed to see before my eyes that this filter is little better than a Fram with white paint on it. I say "little better" since at least the Nissan filter has an all-metal bypass, whereas the Fram has plastic. Well, see for yourself, here it is in all its cardboard endcap splendor. I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.
Here's the can of the just-cut filter:
Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:
Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:
And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:
You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.
Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)
I think those Nissan guys you were talking to need to go back to school. . .
http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart5.htm