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Do yourself a favor and switch to Mobil 1

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Old 12-20-2004 | 05:00 PM
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Redline , Amsoil , Royal Purple
Old 12-20-2004 | 05:44 PM
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Mobil 1 rules (5-30w)....I have been using it.
Old 12-20-2004 | 07:14 PM
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Originally posted by G87z
Quick question on the mobil 1 oil filters. what cars are the 110 and the 105 for. 108 is the one they make for the 350. was just curious what cars the others were for.

Thanks
The 108 is the stock size. The 105 has the same base, but is much wider (squat looking), but almost as short as the stock "thimble" filter. The 110 is the same diameter as the 108, but it's almost twice as tall. I am running one on my G35 right now (which also specs a 108 sized filter), with no apparent ill effects at all. I'm really puzzled about this since it's the same filter spec-ed for the I-35 (same VQ35 engine, just installed east-west reflecting its Maxima origins). There's plenty of room for the longer filter in the G (and I assume the Z too), so why two filter sizes for the same engine????

Mobil-1 is certainly a fine choice for this engine, but you can do better. I realize the examples below are only one car each, but as you can see from these lab oil analysis results, here's a G35 owner using Mobil-1 who is getting clearly poorer results than I am:

G35 ON MOBIL-1

Notice the significantly elevated levels of Iron, Aluminum, and Lead while using M-1. Now compare that to mine (and at this point, my engine has only 10k miles vs. almost 15k in the above example, so mine should still be making more metal in comparison:

G35 ON GERMAN-MADE CASTROL SYNTEC

While I'm admittedly biased, these numbers are outstanding. Yes, I am very well aware of the truth about the American made versions of Syntec (it's a hydrocracked mineral-based oil passed off as a synthetic). I was using the German made variety which is available only in the 0w-30 grade. In the US you can pretty much only find it in Autozone stores (and you have to be careful if you're looking for it, as there is still older US made 0w-30 on the shelves too).

Also of note, despite what most people think when they see the "0w-" part of the rating, this oil is NOT "thinner" than a 5w or 10w oil. For example, all of the Mobil-1 30 wt products test out at about 10 cSt of viscosity at operating temp, whereas German Syntec scores out as around 12.5 cSt. It also has a HT/HS (high temp/high shear) viscosity rating of 3.6 while the Mobil products are all under 3.0. It runs very, very smoothly in the VQ.
Old 12-20-2004 | 11:29 PM
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That right there sir is some pretty good info. I may have to look into the german made syntec. is there any specific way to tell if it is german made or US made 0w 30 syntec? does it say it right on the bottle?
Thanks for any more input you may have.

George
Old 12-20-2004 | 11:53 PM
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If you ask the dealer to add Mobil 1, how can you tell if they really used it to know that they didn't rip you off? Is it a different color or anything?
Old 12-21-2004 | 01:45 AM
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Dear Guys
I live is Saipan (Northern Mariana Island) near Guam Island
we had around 80 ~ 100 F 365 days a year
After I installation of APS TT kit I used 10W30 Castrol long life
but i had a tap noise from my right said bank Cam....
so now I'm useing Mobil1 15w50 Perfromance engine sound is Very Good....
What you Guys think ?????
Old 12-21-2004 | 03:18 AM
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Originally posted by G87z
That right there sir is some pretty good info. I may have to look into the german made syntec. is there any specific way to tell if it is german made or US made 0w 30 syntec? does it say it right on the bottle?
Thanks for any more input you may have.

George
Yes, but it's a bit tedious. The old stock (US made) 0w-30 bottles have a yellow highlight color on the front ("0w-30" appears inside a yellow block in the lower right side of front of bottle). The "GC" (German Castrol) bottles have a red and green color theme, with "0w-30" being inside a RED block on the front. If it is 2002 or 2003 production GC, the words "Made in Germany" will appear on the rear label on the lower LEFT side. If it is late 2003 or 2004 produced stock, look for the "Made in Germany" to appear on the lower RIGHT side of the rear label. Don't be mislead by "Castrol North America" verbiage which appears nearby; you're looking for "Made in Germany" which is the key to getting GC. Dates, by the way, are derived from the lot numbers which are stamped on the bottom of the bottle. "M042806..." appears on the bottle I'm looking at right now. You can also tell the US made bottles, as they tend to be the ones with lots of dust on them. . . Be careful, and look at every bottle, as the US stuff and GC are often intermingled with one another. They don't come in cases mixed, it's just from their time on the shelves. If you find a case of six, just look for "Made in Germany" on the box and it's a safe grab.

Last edited by Torkaholic; 12-21-2004 at 03:20 AM.
Old 12-21-2004 | 03:24 AM
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Originally posted by zrdude
If you ask the dealer to add Mobil 1, how can you tell if they really used it to know that they didn't rip you off? Is it a different color or anything?
M1 has a nondescript amber color, so you can't really tell by looking. It does have a sorta distinct odor, but you have to know it to tell. The German Castrol product I described in my previous posts actually has a greenish hue to it that you can see on a white paper towel used to wipe the stick while checking the oil, but it does not last long in service. It's actually a little spooky to see it come out of the bottle -- not what you expect of motor oil.
Old 12-21-2004 | 08:23 AM
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Default Re: Do yourself a favor and switch to Mobil 1

Originally posted by BENJ-AMG
Since I live in an apt. complex and don't have access to ramps I decided to go to Wal Mart and have them do it for me.
Ramps will run you about ~$20-25. I know how the apartment situation can be... no auto maintenance is allowed, et al... but I do my changes in the garage (door closed), so you might consider exercising this route as well
Old 12-21-2004 | 08:33 AM
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Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.

George
Old 12-21-2004 | 09:21 AM
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Originally posted by G87z
Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.

George
There's a good bit of debate on this point. My take on it is that once your initial consumption settles down, you can make the switch at your discretion. I changed at 6k, and I'm now on my second fill of syn. My car now has dead zero oil consumption. A lot of VQs seem to drink oil for a while. If yours is still doing that, I'd strongly recommend waiting. My oil analysis consultant felt I was ready at six, and the car seems to have proven him correct.
Old 12-21-2004 | 03:50 PM
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Originally posted by D@ActiveTuning
Just because you don't have ramps, you can still do it yourself. My Z doesn't fit on ramps, just get jackstands, lift the front up, and go at it....it's super easy as the filter/oil pan are right there once you take that plastic underpanel diffuser off.
I've actually done an oil change by driving up on two 2x4 pieces laid side to side under each front tire, so the car was like 1.5 inches off the ground.

I was able to drop the shield, remove the drain plug, swap the filter, etc solely by laying on the ground in front of the car. I do have long arms, though
Old 12-21-2004 | 03:53 PM
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Originally posted by G87z
Alright that sounds easy enough. I have read from alot of people not to switch to a synthetic until about 10,000 miles has been put on the motor. I myself switched at 2xxx miles on my first oil change. That due to I didnt read any of those threads. But oh well I have around 4100 miles on the vehical now and I havent noticed a problem.

George
That is old school thinking. Lots of cars ship from the factory these days with Mobil 1 in the crankcase, including Vettes, AMG Mercedes, etc. A lot of people think there is some magic in allowing the rings to set on regular dino, but I've never had a problem with synthetic ASAP.
Old 12-21-2004 | 04:32 PM
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Default Re: Re: Do yourself a favor and switch to Mobil 1

Originally posted by yobri
Ramps will run you about ~$20-25. I know how the apartment situation can be... no auto maintenance is allowed, et al... but I do my changes in the garage (door closed), so you might consider exercising this route as well
Luckily my apartments has a garage, so only residents coming and leaving in their cars see me work on my car. I do feel kind of bad from leaving some oil stains in my parking space, but oh well. BTW, I just changed my oil this past Sunday and put in Mobil 1. Haven't driven the car since, but will tomorrow. I can't wait to see how she performs.
Old 12-21-2004 | 05:50 PM
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Originally posted by MannishBoy
That is old school thinking. Lots of cars ship from the factory these days with Mobil 1 in the crankcase, including Vettes, AMG Mercedes, etc. A lot of people think there is some magic in allowing the rings to set on regular dino, but I've never had a problem with synthetic ASAP.
I've just completely given up on doing the right thing. Everyone has an opinion on when and if you should switch to synthetic. As long as you keep your oil clean, you should be able to use just about any quality oil and filter.
Old 12-27-2004 | 07:06 PM
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Originally posted by chachi999999999
Don't use another filter than the Nissan filter. I was talking to the Nissan guys when I first got my car about changing to synthetic. They told me that mobil 1 synthetic was the best for the Z. Then I asked them about what oil filter. They said to stay with the nissan oem because it is specially designed for the Z, and that any other filter may not do as good of a job and may harm the motor in the long run.
I've heard a few folks say things like this about the filter that Nissan/Infiniti are currently recommending for the VQ35. But I've also heard some concerns expressed. I just had to know more. . .

Well, I just finished dissecting a 65F00 Nissan OEM filter, and was shocked, and disappointed to see before my eyes that this filter is little better than a Fram with white paint on it. I say "little better" since at least the Nissan filter has an all-metal bypass, whereas the Fram has plastic. Well, see for yourself, here it is in all its cardboard endcap splendor. I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.

Here's the can of the just-cut filter:


Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:


Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:


And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:

You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.

Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)

I think those Nissan guys you were talking to need to go back to school. . .

Last edited by Torkaholic; 12-27-2004 at 07:09 PM.
Old 12-28-2004 | 01:48 AM
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ive heard of a study that actually showed that synthetics are not good for the car. It didnt say anyting about mobil 1 if i remmeber correctly. anyone know of this study?

so whats the final word? mobil 1 or dino?
Old 12-28-2004 | 11:43 AM
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Originally posted by nuttyprof
ive heard of a study that actually showed that synthetics are not good for the car. It didnt say anyting about mobil 1 if i remmeber correctly. anyone know of this study?

so whats the final word? mobil 1 or dino?
Not good for which car? What "study" are you talking about? If it's that decades old New York City taxicab thing, forget it; all it found was that in constantly run, low-stress engines, dinos do as well as syns. Also, it's based on oils no longer on sale anywhere.

I've used synthetics for about 20 years now and I've never, ever seen any indication that syns are not "good for the car". In fact, come to think of it, I've never had a major component fail. Shoot, my engines look factory clean inside even when they get to over 150,000 miles. And on, and on.

Final word for me (for now anyway ) is the German made Castrol 0w-30 (not the US made phony syn stuff). I recently got back my first lab results on this oil taken from my relatively new VQ and the results verged on phenomenal. Have a look for yourself here . Other than slightly elevated copper (common in near-new engines), this is a fantastic result. You can't say this oil is "not good for the car".
Old 12-28-2004 | 09:02 PM
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I use mobil 1 oil w/ the Pureone oil filter by Purolator
Old 12-28-2004 | 10:23 PM
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Originally posted by Torkaholic
I've heard a few folks say things like this about the filter that Nissan/Infiniti are currently recommending for the VQ35. But I've also heard some concerns expressed. I just had to know more. . .

Well, I just finished dissecting a 65F00 Nissan OEM filter, and was shocked, and disappointed to see before my eyes that this filter is little better than a Fram with white paint on it. I say "little better" since at least the Nissan filter has an all-metal bypass, whereas the Fram has plastic. Well, see for yourself, here it is in all its cardboard endcap splendor. I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.

Here's the can of the just-cut filter:


Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:


Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:


And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:

You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.

Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)

I think those Nissan guys you were talking to need to go back to school. . .
Oil and Oil Filters 101

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart5.htm


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