ever since I had technosquare flash my ECU my car has been misfiring.

They told me to put 1 step colder plugs in my car. I did that. Didn't stop it. I thought it was only happening at low rpms from what I could tell with driving the car.

I dynoed my car. I'm running LEAN! from 18 at 2000rpms down to 14 at redline. My engine was detonating. I think it caused the ECU to retard timing like hell.

My first dyno was at 260rwhp with loud detonation. Did two more pulls both getting 247rwhp and both didn't have the detonation as loud. I should be in the 285 range from what I've read with everyone else's similar mods

I need to know if the A/F is causing the misfiring or if it might be something about how they adjusted the timing or whatever else they did.

I'm about to buy a greddy Emanage and tune the A/F myself. If I get perfect A/F I'm really hoping that will solve my misfiring. Cause if it doesn't I'm going to be extremely PISSED OFF at Technosquare.

I drove my car to them and they spent 2 hours "tuning" my car and assured me I had an A/F ratio between 12.5 and 13 throughout the powerband.

I did change my exhaust from borla to nismo and added the 350EVO throttlebody. They said switching to the throttlebody wouldn't change the A/F much. I somehow don't believe the nismo exhaust runs the car 2-4 points leaner than the borla - especially when I had that check engine light right after their flash

 

a lot of people have been complainging about the ts flash, im definitely going to steer clear of it until something gets solved or another company comes out with one that works

 

My car is running lean like that too but I don't have TS reflash either.

I noticed a little bit of pinging on the dyno but not as severe as you describe. If its as bad as you say, you shouldn't be driving WOT, or above 3.5K. Get it fixed soon.

 

well TS emailed me and said they'd fix it for free so I'm mailing the ECU today along with my dyno charts.

I have a truck I can borrow so that's the route I'll be going instead of the Emanage - though I'll probably get the Emanage eventually anyway...

 

Thats the problem with flashes is that no car is the exact same and there are soo many factors that go into A/F ratio including mods and atmospheric conditions. All Technosquare can do is guess at what your car needs. I would definitely still get some method to tune the A/F yourself.

 

what confuses me is they tuned the car with my wideband o2 bung to get the claimed 12.5-13

like I said, the check engine light still went on shortly after leaving


It was cold and raining that day

It doesn't rain as much in AZ, but it's about the same temp as Cal and I think about the same elevation.

Maybe I shouldn't have taken their word for it and asked to see their A/F measurements. My GF and I were in a hurry to get back on the road after sitting for 4 hours in technosquare's waiting room...

 

The ecu in the Z is very advanced, it will adjust to various conditions and mods, and exactly as stated above, no two cars are the same, so this makes tuning very hard.

REflashing our ecu's is cool, it works, but there's still a lot to be learned.

 

I just sent my 04 ecu back to TS for another reflash since the first reflash didn't seem to stay in for some reason. I should have it back today and hopefully it will be right this time.
screaminz

 

I went yesterday to Z1 Motoring in Carrollton Ga to have it dynoed and here are the results.. I only hope TS can fixe this LEAN problem.
screaminz

 

That's pretty lean man, things usually start breakin and melting at anything over 15.

 

would anyone know if my valve springs can be causing my misfiring?

I have the JWT cams installed on my car, but I believe the stock valve springs are still there. The installer (perf nissan) spent a lot of time adjusting shims and whatnot and said he eventually got it. I didn't even know JWT made valve springs at the time or knew it was something to concern myself with - I just wanted cams in my car.

 

I seem to remember reading somewhere in the forums that there's some sort of special installation kit you need from JWT to get their CAMS to work properly on the 350Z, or it messes with the ECU. Are you sure you got this? If not you should check with JWT directly.

Good luck with it.

Chris

 

I don't know. I had it done at performance Nissan - they're the ones I bought them from. Leo is the one who worked on my car. He's one of the best tech's there. I assumed they'd get them installed correctly. But yeah, I really don't know what happened other than he said he got it and it was working right.

I've been reading a lot lately about other things that can cause a Cell light to go off. Things like the crank sensor wire getting interferance seems to have a lot of potential for causing it. People are thinking it might have actually contributed to a lot of blown engines with FI.

 

How soon did you change these mods? You must have driven home from TS without them, did you experience the problems then? Did the misfiring start before or after these mods? The biggest factor as far as location would have to be altitude, how much of a difference is there in altitude from where TS is located and where you live? After you put in the 350EVO TB did you perform the ECU resetting and TB repositioning instructions?

 

What year is your car? The JWT cam issue is only with idle rpms because with the newer ECUs the idle can not be changed with Consult II by the installer. As far as the valve springs, I was assurred by Jim himself that the stock springs were ok, even with the redline increase after the ECU reflash. He said as long as there was not sustained 7000+ rpm driving, that there would be no problems.

 

thanks everyone for your help

My car is an 03 (aug 02)

The check engine light came on like 45 min after leaving TS.

I live in Phoenix, AZ and heard the elevation here is actually lower than where TS is. That in itself means the air here is denser

The throttle body and nismo exhaust were put on later - and I also opened up the front bumper a little removing these pointless plastic air guards on the sides of the air cavity as well as removing the JWT heatshield and intake duct.

So I figured I'd be running just slightly more lean, but not in the 16's. I assumed it'd be a small amount and the ECU would adjust.

My A/F is better than it was, but I'm sending the ECU back again to try to level it out some more and when that's settled, work on advancing the timing where possible. So yeah it'll be a process. I was really hoping I could avoid the whole back and forth thing - which was why I wend directly to TS, didn't even think the climate would be that different.

I didn't reset the ECU after those mods - I know I should have. I did last night and it seems to run a little better with no check engine light yet.

I have not tried resetting the throttlebody position. I saw that on their site how to do that, but it didn't even occur to me. The 350EVO really looks pretty much the same just bored out on the front half with a shiny blade - I understand it's lighter, but wasn't aware that I'd have to do anything to the ECU to make it work correctly. I'll look into it, but I'm sending the ECU back again tomorrow cause of the A/F

I'm also going to try two other dynos. One of them being a mustang dyno since some forum members here are using those - I understand they rate your HP higher. I'm just curious cause I now know you really can't compare one car to another by dynos. I wonder if the dyno I've been using just gives out low numbers or has been contaminated in some way - they have all sorts of drag cars there.

I really do need the TS flash though for 2 main reasons other than extra performance and good A/F. They have my idle permanently set to 900rpms as the default. I can disconnect the battery and not lose the idle being bumped up. The other reason is the increased rev limiter. I've hit the limiter about 8 or so times before getting my mods. I would hate to even think of not having the raised limiter with how fast my car revs up now...

 

I don't understand why you are having difficulties. You physically brought your car to TS and it still has problems? Were there no problems when you were there? Also, does this mean with the mods you have you really can't leave a certain area or risk blowing the motor.. I thought the ECU could adjust.

 

got me man, car is running better now, since it's gone back and forth to TS twice now. Still needs more fine tuning, but it's at least not pinging.

It seemed to run fine when I dove away from TS. However I wasn't doing tons of WOT runs since I had my girlfriend in the car and about 300lbs of car parts and our clothes and stuff in the back. We were driving from CA to AZ and I didn't notice any pinging, but I really wasn't listening for it cause I just didn't think of it happening - also wind noise etc and the fact they said it was perfectly between 12.5 and 13

I still think the different atmosphere, elevation, temp, and me tweaking some of my parts all added up to make me lean and detonate. That's about the best idea I can come up with.