My Dyno Results - Disappointed
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whats going on with the z?? i dont understand how they can advertise 287 hp( i know its at the crank) but really be in the 220ish to 230ish range? Isnt that false advertising. And after seeing everyones dynos no one gets anywhere with na mods. Im just a little disapointed i guess, i thought i was buying a car in almost 300 hp range but not even close.
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You are running way too lean (test pipes)! Get a reflash or a piggyback to get your a/f's down. You should be around 13.0 in the upper rpms and mid 13s in the mid range! Get that done and you will see much higher numbers. Also do you know what your actual numbers were, you were probably handicapped quite a bit due to the cold weather!
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Originally posted by mikeyj217
whats going on with the z?? i dont understand how they can advertise 287 hp( i know its at the crank) but really be in the 220ish to 230ish range? Isnt that false advertising. And after seeing everyones dynos no one gets anywhere with na mods. Im just a little disapointed i guess, i thought i was buying a car in almost 300 hp range but not even close.
whats going on with the z?? i dont understand how they can advertise 287 hp( i know its at the crank) but really be in the 220ish to 230ish range? Isnt that false advertising. And after seeing everyones dynos no one gets anywhere with na mods. Im just a little disapointed i guess, i thought i was buying a car in almost 300 hp range but not even close.
It's a higher number than at the wheels - bigger is better
it's more consistent than dynoing at the wheels even though it isn't really a real world number
most people seem to have a base dyno in the 230ish rang for a 6 speed manual. But some dynos come out to being less than that. There's all sorts of reasons that can contribute such as which ignitition timing the stock ECU is on - there's 3 levels. Reseting it is the only way to ensure that you're on the most aggressive setting. It could be how well that dyno is maintained, air temp, humidity, altitude, maybe some engines are slightly stronger than others, how the stars are aligned etc
My mods have net me 260 hp on the dyno I've been using. I'm going to try a couple other dynos just to see the variation in range I get.
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I don't think our engines are all 287 hp. Nissan probably got a few engines to produce that number, and used that to rank the power. The G35 is the exact same engine( slightly different intake), and they rate that at 280. I think most of our engines are all in between 270 & 280 bhp. If they are all 287 bhp, I dont understand on how we can have a 20% drivetrain loss given the 230 or so rwhp most cars have been getting with manual transmissions. Manual cars should not be losing 20% especially since oure cars have a light weight driveshaft. Just my .02!
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Thats funny because your dyno chart A/F looks just like mine after having the 2004 reflash done from Technosquare.. Don't waste your money on the reflash, trust me..
screaminz
screaminz
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Originally posted by kzshin
20% loss for RWHP car is pretty normal.
20% loss for RWHP car is pretty normal.
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What are some solutions? Forget about technosuare, what are some good piggyback solutions?
Xede?
F-Con
E-Manage? Someone give the costs, reliability, strengths weaknesses. So it looks like I'll all tapped out in terms of flow mods, my stock computer can support.
Xede?
F-Con
E-Manage? Someone give the costs, reliability, strengths weaknesses. So it looks like I'll all tapped out in terms of flow mods, my stock computer can support.
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Originally posted by laswyguy
What are some solutions? Forget about technosuare, what are some good piggyback solutions?
Xede?
F-Con
E-Manage? Someone give the costs, reliability, strengths weaknesses. So it looks like I'll all tapped out in terms of flow mods, my stock computer can support.
What are some solutions? Forget about technosuare, what are some good piggyback solutions?
Xede?
F-Con
E-Manage? Someone give the costs, reliability, strengths weaknesses. So it looks like I'll all tapped out in terms of flow mods, my stock computer can support.
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Originally posted by laswyguy
What are some solutions? Forget about technosuare, what are some good piggyback solutions?
Xede?
F-Con
E-Manage? Someone give the costs, reliability, strengths weaknesses. So it looks like I'll all tapped out in terms of flow mods, my stock computer can support.
What are some solutions? Forget about technosuare, what are some good piggyback solutions?
Xede?
F-Con
E-Manage? Someone give the costs, reliability, strengths weaknesses. So it looks like I'll all tapped out in terms of flow mods, my stock computer can support.
Also, I-Speed is supposedly making a complete ECU replacement, which is extremely tough in my opinion, since the 350Z uses a CAN system. They may just be doing a reflash, might want to try emailing or calling them to see exactly what they are doing. This is all a rumor from another member on here, i'm not sure how much truth is in this, so again call or email them if you want to know.
BTW, factory freaks would have a ~7% drivetrain loss assuming they have ~297hp at the crank. ~6.2% drivetrain loss would mean ~287hp at the crank, and ~241 at the wheels, which should be on normal 350Z's. ~6% drivetrain loss would mean ~277hp at the crank, ~231 at the wheels. This is all just figures, none of this is real world figures imo. Just thought I would add this to the thread.
Last edited by nis350ztt; 01-14-2005 at 04:48 PM.
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Originally posted by screaminz
Do you have any info on the XEDE that you could share? What is different from that and ia reflash?
screaminz
Do you have any info on the XEDE that you could share? What is different from that and ia reflash?
screaminz
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Originally posted by laswyguy
NO Baseline Dyno, but everymod I KNOW made the car faster from buttdyno.
The DYNO guy, hes a WRX, EVO Tuner, said that running leaner actually makes you faster, although not safer.
NO Baseline Dyno, but everymod I KNOW made the car faster from buttdyno.
The DYNO guy, hes a WRX, EVO Tuner, said that running leaner actually makes you faster, although not safer.
You air/fuel is perfect you want to be at or around 14:1
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Originally posted by FairladyZ
He's right the leaner you are the more power the car will make. Also cold weather is actually better and cars tend to show more power.
You air/fuel is perfect you want to be at or around 14:1
He's right the leaner you are the more power the car will make. Also cold weather is actually better and cars tend to show more power.
You air/fuel is perfect you want to be at or around 14:1
An A/F of 14.1 in the upper rpms, that is way too lean, the car is going to be running way too hot and will most likely detonate if pushed, in which the ecu will pull timing, and power will be lost! 14.1 is stoichiometric, great for idle, but not for full throttle!
Last edited by 287HP; 01-14-2005 at 05:56 PM.