Ok guys tell me what you guys think.

I had this done on a dynojet sae corrected numbers.

My mods are DC Headers, Fujitsubo Y-Pipe, Helix Test Pipes, JWT Pop Charger, UR Crank Pulley.

Max HP - 236 , Torque - 225

 

Also the AF on the tail-pipe sniffer - peaks at over 14.5 at 4000RPMS, and averages 14 all the way to 5500 rpms until it drops to 13.5. The guy at the Dyno shop said I should targer 13.5 for a NA car.

 

whats going on with the z?? i dont understand how they can advertise 287 hp( i know its at the crank) but really be in the 220ish to 230ish range? Isnt that false advertising. And after seeing everyones dynos no one gets anywhere with na mods. Im just a little disapointed i guess, i thought i was buying a car in almost 300 hp range but not even close.

 

do you have a better picture of your graph? can't really read it very well - the numbers are all messed up


you need a base dyno cause it might be on that particular dyno on that particular day if your Z was stock you would have dynoed at 210-220hp

 

You are running way too lean (test pipes)! Get a reflash or a piggyback to get your a/f's down. You should be around 13.0 in the upper rpms and mid 13s in the mid range! Get that done and you will see much higher numbers. Also do you know what your actual numbers were, you were probably handicapped quite a bit due to the cold weather!

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think manufacturers rate their power at the crank for a couple reason

It's a higher number than at the wheels - bigger is better

it's more consistent than dynoing at the wheels even though it isn't really a real world number

most people seem to have a base dyno in the 230ish rang for a 6 speed manual. But some dynos come out to being less than that. There's all sorts of reasons that can contribute such as which ignitition timing the stock ECU is on - there's 3 levels. Reseting it is the only way to ensure that you're on the most aggressive setting. It could be how well that dyno is maintained, air temp, humidity, altitude, maybe some engines are slightly stronger than others, how the stars are aligned etc

My mods have net me 260 hp on the dyno I've been using. I'm going to try a couple other dynos just to see the variation in range I get.

 

I don't think our engines are all 287 hp. Nissan probably got a few engines to produce that number, and used that to rank the power. The G35 is the exact same engine( slightly different intake), and they rate that at 280. I think most of our engines are all in between 270 & 280 bhp. If they are all 287 bhp, I dont understand on how we can have a 20% drivetrain loss given the 230 or so rwhp most cars have been getting with manual transmissions. Manual cars should not be losing 20% especially since oure cars have a light weight driveshaft. Just my .02!

 

Thats funny because your dyno chart A/F looks just like mine after having the 2004 reflash done from Technosquare.. Don't waste your money on the reflash, trust me..
screaminz

 

20% loss for RWHP car is pretty normal.

 

Ok. let me blow up the graph. Hope it will still fit cus its over 75,000KB

 

A few people have done engine dynometers with the vq35de and the engines were all in the 270s.

 

NO Baseline Dyno, but everymod I KNOW made the car faster from buttdyno.

The DYNO guy, hes a WRX, EVO Tuner, said that running leaner actually makes you faster, although not safer.

 

What are some solutions? Forget about technosuare, what are some good piggyback solutions?

Xede?
F-Con
E-Manage? Someone give the costs, reliability, strengths weaknesses. So it looks like I'll all tapped out in terms of flow mods, my stock computer can support.

 

XEDE is around $900.00, and so far has been very reliable. Adjusts both my A/F and timing.

 

Do you have any info on the XEDE that you could share? What is different from that and ia reflash?
screaminz

 

MoTeC M600 or M800, HKS F-Con V-Pro, Greddy E-Manage, those are what I recommend. The MoTeC and HKS aren't going to be as easy as the Greddy to find a tuner. The HKS F-Con V-Pro can only be tuned by an HKS Authorized Pro-Dealer. Other solutions are SAFCII. If you don't want a piggyback or standalone you can get your ECU reflashed at Technosquare, Altered Atmosphere, Vishnu/Xede (I believe it's just a reflash, edit: nevermind, just saw 287HP's post, it's a piggyback). Another solution is the AEM E.M.S., they are still working on it though, no idea on release date.

Also, I-Speed is supposedly making a complete ECU replacement, which is extremely tough in my opinion, since the 350Z uses a CAN system. They may just be doing a reflash, might want to try emailing or calling them to see exactly what they are doing. This is all a rumor from another member on here, i'm not sure how much truth is in this, so again call or email them if you want to know.


BTW, factory freaks would have a ~7% drivetrain loss assuming they have ~297hp at the crank. ~6.2% drivetrain loss would mean ~287hp at the crank, and ~241 at the wheels, which should be on normal 350Z's. ~6% drivetrain loss would mean ~277hp at the crank, ~231 at the wheels. This is all just figures, none of this is real world figures imo. Just thought I would add this to the thread.

 

The xede is a piggyback, so it works as an interceptor. Basically it tricks the stock ecu into seeing something that really isnt there. So to control A/F ratio's, it will basically tell the ecu that the MAF sensor is reading hotter air or cooler air than it actually is. In order to richen up the mixture, the xede tells the ecu that the intake charge is cooler, so the ecu sends more fuel,when the air actually could be warmer. The difference between a piggyback and a reflash is that a reflash is done to the ecu, so you have an unchanging set of parameters. A reflash is a permanent set of parameters programmed into the ecu, it is unchanging and the most reliable because the ecu cannot adapt to different conditions. A problem with piggyback units is that sometimes the stock ecu adapt's to the piggybacks inputs, however in my case, the xede seems not to have this problem( dynoed months later with the same results). All of the F/I cars are using piggybacks with out any problems either. For more information on the xede go to www.vishnutuning.com. The xede is most popular with evolutions, but has had great success with subarus and porsches as well.

 

He's right the leaner you are the more power the car will make. Also cold weather is actually better and cars tend to show more power.

You air/fuel is perfect you want to be at or around 14:1

 

I would bet your car runs really good, that is a great dyno. #'s arent everything.

 

Colder air will handicap your SAE Numbers!!! Although actual power will be higher.

An A/F of 14.1 in the upper rpms, that is way too lean, the car is going to be running way too hot and will most likely detonate if pushed, in which the ecu will pull timing, and power will be lost! 14.1 is stoichiometric, great for idle, but not for full throttle!