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Less weight = more power; Have you lightened your Z?

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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #641  
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Originally Posted by danieluser
http://www.raceonusa.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=18762

1248.. currently 20% off thought i share
LOL @ my car being in the pics.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 02:49 PM
  #642  
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Originally Posted by Rickdogg
LOL @ my car being in the pics.
LOL, that is irony isn't it
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Old May 19, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #643  
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Ok, the car is getting there. All weighing is done at the same station with as close to 1/4 tank of gas as possible. When I bought the car it was 3180 with full interior and it did not have catalytic converters.

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March 09': I gutted the rear but re-installed the cats for smog, and netted down to 3120.

May 09': I got a set of lightweight wheels, Bride seat, JWT clutch and FW, and lightweight Braille battery, which netted down to 3060.

For June 09': I ordered the Motordyne single-side race exhaust and will reinstall the test pipes. That should drop me to about 3020, however, I also purchased a Kirk Roll Bar which will bring it back up around 3100 in race trim. Then I'll get real corner weight numbers and balance from there.
Attached Thumbnails Less weight = more power; Have you lightened your Z?-scotts300-350z-3120.jpg   Less weight = more power; Have you lightened your Z?-scotts300-350z-3060.jpg  

Last edited by scotts300; Oct 5, 2009 at 10:46 AM.
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Old May 19, 2009 | 01:05 PM
  #644  
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Scott, I take it you have no plans to gut the doors? There is so much weight in there...glass, window motors, and the linings.

-Don
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Old May 19, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #645  
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Originally Posted by dnguyent
Scott, I take it you have no plans to gut the doors? There is so much weight in there...glass, window motors, and the linings.

-Don
Thanks for the suggestion, Don. I'm not against gutting the doors, actually, and removing some weight from ahead of the car-center would be good. I can't remove the glass at this time though, as the car has to stay outside. Any idea how much weight is in there?
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Old May 19, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by scotts300
Thanks for the suggestion, Don. I'm not against gutting the doors, actually, and removing some weight from ahead of the car-center would be good. I can't remove the glass at this time though, as the car has to stay outside. Any idea how much weight is in there?
I don't have a hard number, but I have a friend who gutted his boxster (for the spec boxster series), and I was REALLY impressed with how light the doors felt. He even left the structural beam in place even though he had a full cage built. In any case, he told me that he's saving thousands of $$$ by not buying a cf door as he was able to come very close to min weight. I've swung open a 997 GT3 Cup car door before, and although the boxster was not nearly as light, it was way lighter than a non-gutted door.

I'm guessing about 20lbs per door for the Z. That little window motor is hefty, and there are quite a few bolts inside the doors.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:43 PM
  #647  
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What a difference the weight reduction makes!
I took a ride in Scott's Z and the acceleration just feels so much more responsive.
I have an '06 enth. and it was 3260 last time I weighed...feels like a slug compared to Scott's lightweight
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #648  
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Good stuff. My car is down to 3130, but I am hoping to get it down to 3050 here shortly.

When you say you "gutted" the trunk........you mean everything bare to the metal?

Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Jun 4, 2009 at 06:58 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #649  
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Dayum, you guys are dropping weight. I've cut 178.35 lbs. so far, I know its not much compared to you guys here. I still need to drop more weight
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Good stuff. My car is down to 3130, but I am hoping to get it down to 3050 here shortly.

When you say you "gutted" the trunk........you mean everything bare to the metal?
Yup, bare from the seats back. I left the rear speakers - they are like 2# total. I think I'll do the doors next, as Don suggested. I had the plastic out around the e-brake and the kick panels, but really didn't like it, so put it back in.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:59 PM
  #651  
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Alright. I have mine down to nothing, and the rear wiper removed (along with reservoir and motor). The thing I don't like is that I have taken about 30 pounds out of the middle of the car and 50-70 out of the rear. I would like to get 40 or so pounds out of the front of the car and even things out. I don't like that I could be throwing the distribution off. Also since most of the weight is coming off of the bottom of the car and raising the center of gravity. With that said I am going to go a pc680 battery here in the next weeks along with a new clutch assembly that is about 17 pound lighter than stock. Those two mods should drop ~40 pounds. I am also thinking of removing the steering wheel/airbag assembly, but am weary due to potential resale problems. Anywho.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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^^^

sell it to a memeber will get brought...

just bumping one of my favorite threads...

gutting the trunk has to be one of the most felt mods for the car I did it and the car feels way lighter, interior noise is crazy listening to the radio/cd it has to be on 20 rather than 15 also on a quarter tank of gas is sounds like sex when your on it...nismo exhaust I mean sounds great...

I lub dis tread it mak mi hoppy wen wee lose weight...
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #653  
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Originally Posted by KingBaby
^^^

sell it to a memeber will get brought...

just bumping one of my favorite threads...

gutting the trunk has to be one of the most felt mods for the car I did it and the car feels way lighter, interior noise is crazy listening to the radio/cd it has to be on 20 rather than 15 also on a quarter tank of gas is sounds like sex when your on it...nismo exhaust I mean sounds great...

I lub dis tread it mak mi hoppy wen wee lose weight...
I put just the rear mat and the undermat back into the trunk. No weight added, and it insulated some of the noise.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #654  
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Scotts300: What are you using to mount your braille battery.........the kit they sell separately?
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:25 PM
  #655  
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ive got C/F doors FS if anyone is intrested
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 07:14 AM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Scotts300: What are you using to mount your braille battery.........the kit they sell separately?
I bought the battery used, however, the holder is just some ginned up wood from HD that's been painted.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #657  
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Originally Posted by alving
What a difference the weight reduction makes!
I took a ride in Scott's Z and the acceleration just feels so much more responsive.
I have an '06 enth. and it was 3260 last time I weighed...feels like a slug compared to Scott's lightweight
Strip out your Z!
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 03:46 PM
  #658  
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I read through this whole thread but i dont remember which battery was best for daily driving. There were too many mentioned... braille, odyssey, etc.

I want a lightweight battery, but i dont want it to die on me. All audio in my car is stock.

Any opinions? Thanks
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 07:26 AM
  #659  
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Originally Posted by JK_HRZ
I read through this whole thread but i dont remember which battery was best for daily driving. There were too many mentioned... braille, odyssey, etc.

I want a lightweight battery, but i dont want it to die on me. All audio in my car is stock.

Any opinions? Thanks
My Braille lasts 3 days without starting. I don't leave it on a trickle charge, but it won't start on the 4th day. You could use it for DD without issue.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 09:02 AM
  #660  
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For people with the room weather and daily start up the braille is fine, but for people in the colder climates I would think twice.......I don't have personal experience with the Odyssey pc680, but know a few people locally who have them. One wouldn't start after about 36 hours of shutoff with temps below 15 degrees, but could go 5-6 days without start-up without problem. Honestly, both are pretty good option.
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