I'd caution you that the braille is a poor choice for colder climates.....I only put mine in from late april to early oct. It doesn't hold a charge worth a poop in the colder months. That's too be expected though.

 

Less weight DOES NOT EQUAL more power.....

It just leads to faster accelerations and velocities....


POWER = FORCE * DISTANCE
POWER = change in INTERNAL ENERGY
POWER = CURRENT ^2 * RESISTANCE

neither have weight or mass in them.

 

Really?

 

I knew my infiniti FX was faster than my stock Z...

 

... technically, WEIGHT is a measure of FORCE. Completely tangential semantic correction, but I felt that since we were going to state the obvious, I might as well join in the fun.

 

You guys are killing me.

Force = mass x acceleration N or (kg x m)/s^2
Work = Force x Distance N x d or kJ
Power =Work/Time kJ/s or kW

In the metric system the units of Power are a kW. A kW is kJ/s. So if we break it all down.

Power = Work/Time = (Force x Distance)/Time = (Mass x Acceleration x Distance)/Time.

So mass does come into play.

 

Electrical Power.

P = VI
P = (I^2)R
P = (V^2)/R

The units of Voltage are Joule/Coulomb. The units for current are Coulomb/second. So if we look at the first equation a (Joule/Coulomb) x (Coulomb/second) = Joule/second. Going back to the first post a Joule (J) is a unit of work and you should be able to take it from their.

Another thing. Internal energy is U, which if you look in any text book is in Joules.

 

Simple math for you:

Mass at 2kg = (your car before stripped)
Mass at 1kg = (car stripped)

Car going 60 m/s/s in both scenarios
Therefore the distance traveled is the same. - Agreed?

Scenario 1- Full weight
Force = 2kg * 60m/s/s = 120 N
Power = 120N * X distance = 120x Watts


Scenario 2 - Stripped
Force = 1kg * 60m/s/s = 60N
Power = 60N * X distance = 60x Watts


YOU DO NOT GAIN power from weight increase!!!
Did you change your engine while stripping weight???? If no, then you most likely didn't change your power.

All you changed is how much power required to move the same speed. Your max horsepower is still the same.

 

I'm pretty sure nobody thought their horsepower increased from a weight decrease. I think everyone is saying that a weight decrease has a performance effect similar to increasing horsepower. And if that's what this entire argument has been about, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that none of you are anywhere as smart as you think you are or you've got a lot of blonde roots...

 

obviously taking out your spare tire has nothing to do with you engine power.. but doing so makes less oad for the engine to cary around which makes the car faster.. a motorcycle with a 200whp engine would smoke a 350z with 220whp of course.. less weight = faster

 

Please tell me you intended this post to be a joke. If not, you are are terribly confused individual.

 

^
Since ForumZ wrote the formula for power wrong I decided to copy/paste the electrical ones and the units as a joke.

The point of my first post was not to be smart but to simply show that mass/weight is interwoven into the formula for power. In no way am I arguing that shedding a few pounds results in a couple of ponies. Specialized5223 nicely summed it up.

 

By the way I was blonde for the first 6 years of my life. (Making it easy to be insulted lol)

 

No worries, man. We've all been blonde at one time or another whether the hair showed it or not...

 

back on topic... i actually have most of the ACTUAL weights for the items being discussed here im my thread... i had a question though... anyone know how much the transmission weights?... i'll prolly weigh one when i get back home in april but i kind of need to know now

ohh the thread link is
https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-an...-pictures.html

 

Not specifically for the 350z, but my 300ZX TT transmission weights 115# dry. I'd bet it's pretty close to that.

 

I have no idea how much weight I've shaved off the Z since I bought it, but it's definitely leaner since I took off the stock cats, exhaust, got new wheels.

I'm going to buy a light weight battery this season, but I don't want to strip my car since I like the interior as is.

 

Here's my take on the weight saving situation:
1. Fiberglass hood [as light if not lighter than CF]
2. fiberglass hatch
3. LW 18's
4. LW flywheel
5. titanium exhaust
6. ditch everything in trunk
7. ditch wiper res.
8. ditch sound ded. material
9. test pipes
10. headers
11. LW racing seats
12. mount battery in trunk [to regain somw front to back weight dis.]
13. ditch AC [if you racing]
14. ditch speakers [if you racing]
15. ditch center console [if racing]
16. ditch window motors [if racing]
17. swap all glass w/plexi race glass [if racing]
18. ditch all airbags [if racing]
19. ditch unneeded coolant pipes and hoses [if in warmer climate and/or racing]
20. CF or FG doors
21. Least amount of gas as possible

And the biggest, cheapest, but def not the easiest way to lighten up the car.......
22. GEt your Fat A$$ on a diet [seriously - pro racers are typically short and skinny / lol look at horse jockeys]

 

Not necessarily, though I get the idea. Some of the items on your list are realistic, some not so much unless you are sponsored by a race team. Some things just aren't practical, i.e. you can't take out the window motors without removing the windows or rigging a manual window deal (which I'm all ears to learn how to do). A full Ti exhaust won't necessarily be lighter than a simple-design single exhaust. The stock cloth seats are also pretty light, and with harnesses, hold you in surprisingly well. Function > form.

 

I completely agree.
I just Mentioned the titanium exhaust because I knew the guys on here are gonna start running their motors about titanium
I think a single exit exhaust w/sebring tuning muffler and resonator will be pretty light.

exp: I made a proto type exhaust for the s2000 with just 2 sebring mufflers and stainless tubing, and it came out to about 25 lbs