i was wondering, if you had to pick one thing you did to your car in the 0-1,000 price range and one thing in the 1,000-8,000 what would it be,and why do you like it the most? also is there any mods that people did that they either didnt like or wasnt worth the money?thank you everyone for any and all input.and if anyone knew what the best way to get extra horsepower without significantly reducing the reliability of the engine i would appreciate any info on that subject also.again thank you and great site

 

$1-$1000 exaust Injen without question angled tips is you can find them , loud gets rid of that weak a$$ stock sound ithat I hear everywhere!!, an honest 9 hp to the wheels if you get their cai also ..

$1000-$8000 Nice Rims or vortech SC tough call one will make you more unique and one is just raw power. one helps you get girls the other helps you smoke porches and vettes

and if I had $8000 right now to spend on a stock Z I would by all of the above, with $1000 left over to put in a real stereo

Leigh

www.notleavin.com

 

i love my Nitrous... everything done right comes out to about $1000-$1200.
Best bang for the buck mod.

 

1-1000 I love my Technosquare ECU-it made a big difference in how "tuned" I was and I saw decent mods from it, not to mention the ability to rev slightly over 7000 rpm, which I LOVE when racing other Z's.

1000-8000 Right now Id say my JIC FLT-A2's the handling/look is sick. But I'm waiting on some Black LE37's to come in Around Mid April-when I finally get these Ill probobly say these for the 1000-8000 question

 

how long did it take technosquare to reflash your ECU?
were they able to adjust the ECU to compensate for the mods you had? if any..

 

0-1000 probably try to find a used set of Crawford headers
1000-8000 APS TT kit for sure...no doubt

 

I sent it Monday I got it back Wednesday. I have all the bolt-ons minus headers, and TB. I was running 14.5 a/f dow low and as lean as 15.2:1 mid range and almost 15:1 up top. I dynoed the 1st saturday I got back the ecu and I had perfect 13.1 A/F from 2500-7100 rpm's. I was very satisfied.

 

0-1000 nice pair of sticky tires
1000 and up, forced induction

 

thank you everyone for your replies and opinions and please keep them coming.

 

0-1000 -> Crawford plenum/strut, Kinetix hig flow cats (little more power over 4k rpms)
1000-8000 -> Nismo wheels and Toyo T1-s (much better handling and ride quality)

 

you could go all looks and not have to worry about reliablility or warranty: complete body kit, springs/shocks or coilovers, camber kit f/r and rims/tires. you would have a very nice looking car for that price range 1-8k and the stock power and exhaust is fine imo.

you want a better ride therefore the change in suspension to go with the body kit and rims/tires....a bit bouncy stock. i recommend coilvovers so you can adjust height and damper settings and the camber kit would only apply according to your drop and alignment

seems like you would drop a fortune (6-8k minimum) trying to get power n/a and noone has reached the 300 mark officially just yet, otherwise you would have to go fi or turbo to get the most power....and there goes your reliablility (unless you keep the car tuned perfectly); i wouldn't even consider nitrous...but it will get you there quicker and cheaper

 

thanks road warrior ,but it kind of bugs me when someone has a car that looks really good but doesnt have that much power,would want to have power before looks.besides the 350z looks so good already.but thank you,does anyone know how much reliability you lose when you go to fi?what is the average miles that people are getting on their 350z engines with fi or without?has anyone put on over 200,000.i know in three years that would be a lot of driving i was just curious.