350Z Clutch Pedal Stop - Part 1 of 4
350Z Clutch Pedal Stop - Part 1 of 4
Installation of a Clutch Pedal Stop is a mod that improved my quick starts, quick shifting and my driving position comfort and control. It may not be for everyone, especially the taller drivers, but here is a quick review for your consideration.
Let me begin with two definitions. I am going to call the distance from the fully depressed clutch pedal position to the clutch engagement point the “Bottom Travel” and call the distance from the engagement point to the fully released pedal position (foot off pedal) the “Top Travel.”
To improve my quick starts and quick shifting, I wanted to eliminate excess free play in the Bottom Travel in order to have the clutch engagement point closer to the fully depressed clutch pedal position. I had read a number of threads discussing adjustment of the clutch engagement point to reduce Bottom Travel and at the same time increasing Top Travel. But, I was content with the Top Travel. Being a comparatively short person, my objective was to eliminate the excess Bottom Travel without affecting the Top Travel. Then I came across an exchange between Jason at Performance Nissan and a forum member where Jason suggested installation of a “pedal stop.” After a private message exchange, Jason and I had a telephone conversation.
At first, Jason discouraged installation of a pedal stop by telling me that I did not need it (unless I had a Tilton clutch.) Instead, he suggested that I could learn where the engagement point is and shift accordingly. To some extent, I had learned to shift without putting the clutch pedal all the way to the floor but the occasional gear grind made me uncomfortable. And, the method had not solved the problem at traffic signals. (It may be old school, but at a traffic signal I put the clutch pedal to the floor - or shift to neutral.) Next, Jason informed me that I could easily fabricate a clutch pedal stop myself. That is probably true, if I had sufficient time, patience and the proper tools. I persisted with my inquiry to learn that Performance Nissan includes a clutch pedal stop with every Tilton clutch it sells. It is not a catalog part but one that Performance Nissan designed and fabricated for its Tilton customers. Jason was willing to sell it to me as a separate part.
When I ordered the pedal stop, I asked if it came with instructions. Jason replied “no” but gave me three simple instructions. First, the location and installation are obvious. Second, because the pedal stop needs to be attached to the firewall, be careful not to drill into the brake booster on the opposite side of the firewall. Third, the clutch-ignition interlock switch would need to be disconnected or the car would not start.
The clutch pedal stop is simple and functional. Actually, the part that Jason sent me is what I am going to call the pedal stop “Plate.” It is a fairly thick (maybe 3/32”) piece of steel sheet, cut in a rectangle about 1.5” by 2.0”, with holes drilled at each of the four corners, and a hole drilled at dead center with a 3/16” nut welded at the center hole. The Plate has a very slight curvature and the edges are ground to prevent sharpness. Not sexy, not even painted, but it functions perfectly. The object is to fasten the Plate to the firewall, then screw a bolt, 3/16” in diameter and 1-1/2” in length (in my case), into the Plate (perpendicular) so that the head of the bolt makes contact with the clutch pedal arm to stop the Bottom Travel. The length of the bolt (not included with the Plate) will vary with the installation and driver’s preferences.
Go to Part 2 of 4
Let me begin with two definitions. I am going to call the distance from the fully depressed clutch pedal position to the clutch engagement point the “Bottom Travel” and call the distance from the engagement point to the fully released pedal position (foot off pedal) the “Top Travel.”
To improve my quick starts and quick shifting, I wanted to eliminate excess free play in the Bottom Travel in order to have the clutch engagement point closer to the fully depressed clutch pedal position. I had read a number of threads discussing adjustment of the clutch engagement point to reduce Bottom Travel and at the same time increasing Top Travel. But, I was content with the Top Travel. Being a comparatively short person, my objective was to eliminate the excess Bottom Travel without affecting the Top Travel. Then I came across an exchange between Jason at Performance Nissan and a forum member where Jason suggested installation of a “pedal stop.” After a private message exchange, Jason and I had a telephone conversation.
At first, Jason discouraged installation of a pedal stop by telling me that I did not need it (unless I had a Tilton clutch.) Instead, he suggested that I could learn where the engagement point is and shift accordingly. To some extent, I had learned to shift without putting the clutch pedal all the way to the floor but the occasional gear grind made me uncomfortable. And, the method had not solved the problem at traffic signals. (It may be old school, but at a traffic signal I put the clutch pedal to the floor - or shift to neutral.) Next, Jason informed me that I could easily fabricate a clutch pedal stop myself. That is probably true, if I had sufficient time, patience and the proper tools. I persisted with my inquiry to learn that Performance Nissan includes a clutch pedal stop with every Tilton clutch it sells. It is not a catalog part but one that Performance Nissan designed and fabricated for its Tilton customers. Jason was willing to sell it to me as a separate part.
When I ordered the pedal stop, I asked if it came with instructions. Jason replied “no” but gave me three simple instructions. First, the location and installation are obvious. Second, because the pedal stop needs to be attached to the firewall, be careful not to drill into the brake booster on the opposite side of the firewall. Third, the clutch-ignition interlock switch would need to be disconnected or the car would not start.
The clutch pedal stop is simple and functional. Actually, the part that Jason sent me is what I am going to call the pedal stop “Plate.” It is a fairly thick (maybe 3/32”) piece of steel sheet, cut in a rectangle about 1.5” by 2.0”, with holes drilled at each of the four corners, and a hole drilled at dead center with a 3/16” nut welded at the center hole. The Plate has a very slight curvature and the edges are ground to prevent sharpness. Not sexy, not even painted, but it functions perfectly. The object is to fasten the Plate to the firewall, then screw a bolt, 3/16” in diameter and 1-1/2” in length (in my case), into the Plate (perpendicular) so that the head of the bolt makes contact with the clutch pedal arm to stop the Bottom Travel. The length of the bolt (not included with the Plate) will vary with the installation and driver’s preferences.
Go to Part 2 of 4
350Z Clutch Pedal Stop - Part 2 of 4
Here is what I did:
1. Planning. First, I Inspected: (a) the Plate; (b) the general clutch pedal arrangement; (c) the ignition interlock switch; (d) where on the firewall the Plate would be located to contact the clutch pedal arm when depressed; (e) how it would fit; (f) and the brake booster on the opposite side of the firewall. (The brake booster did not look like a serious hazard but I was not thrilled with the idea of drilling through the firewall.) Next, I reviewed relevant sections of the service manual for familiarity with the clutch pedal arrangement, ignition interlock switch, carpet removal, and removal of the dead pedal footrest in order to pull back that area of the carpeting. Then, I measured how much Bottom Travel I wanted to eliminate. I did this by hooking a measuring tape on my left shoe, finding the clutch engagement point and then measuring the distance to the floor by holding the body of the measuring tape stationary while depressing the clutch. After several measurements I determined that the excess Bottom Travel was about two inches. Two inches would be the length of the bolt I needed to screw into the Plate.
2. Parts and Supplies. I needed four items of parts and supplies. I purchased: (a) one 2 inch long 3/16” bolt and, because I was not entirely confident with my scientific measurement, I also purchased a 1-1/2 inch long 3/16” bolt; (b) one 3/16” nut to serve as a counter pressure lock to secure the bolt in the Plate; (c) two flat neoprene faucet washers, about the diameter of the bolt head, to cap the bolt head where it will contact the clutch pedal arm; and (d) because I was reluctant to drill the firewall, I purchased JB Weld instead. (JB Weld is like a two-part epoxy glue.) Since the Plate is located on a near-vertical section of the firewall, I purchased JB Weld Quick Cure. No special tools were needed for the installation.
3. Plate Installation.
a. To the Firewall. To remove the carpeting from harm’s way, I removed the dead pedal footrest, removed the hand-tightened nut securing the top edge of the carpeting to the firewall, and pulled back the section of carpeting at risk. (The sides of the carpeting are tucked behind the left side interior panel with the fuse box and tucked behind the console heater vent on the right.) A sound-deadening batting material is underneath the carpeting. Next, I estimated the location of the Plate on the firewall by holding it in place (with the 2 inch bolt installed), depressing the clutch pedal by hand, and adjusting the location of the Plate so that the bolt head would contact the arm of the clutch pedal when depressed. I marked that location on the batting with a pencil by outlining the four edges of the Plate. Next I cut the batting on three of the four outlined edges of the Plate with a Stanley utility knife. I cut the two sides and the top (a little larger than the outline) to make a flap. Then I folded the flap along the bottom edge and tucked it under the main batting to keep it out of the way. Now, the steel of the firewall was exposed.
b. Attaching the Plate. First, observing the JB Weld instructions, I roughened the surfaces of the firewall and the Plate with a metal file. Next, as above, I determined the exact location of the Plate on the firewall by holding it in place (bolt installed), depressing the clutch pedal by hand, and adjusting the location of the Plate for centered contact between the bolt head and the clutch pedal arm. I marked that location on the firewall with a pencil by outlining the four edges of the Plate. Next I removed the bolt from the Plate, thinking that the extra weight would increase the tendency of the Plate to slide down the firewall until the JB Weld set up. Then I mixed up a batch of JB Weld, generously applied it to the back side of the Plate, pressed the Plate in the marked position on the firewall, and held it there for eight to ten minutes. (The directions for JB Weld Quick Cure say that it sets up in four minutes.) I let the JB Weld cure overnight.
Go to Part 3 of 4
1. Planning. First, I Inspected: (a) the Plate; (b) the general clutch pedal arrangement; (c) the ignition interlock switch; (d) where on the firewall the Plate would be located to contact the clutch pedal arm when depressed; (e) how it would fit; (f) and the brake booster on the opposite side of the firewall. (The brake booster did not look like a serious hazard but I was not thrilled with the idea of drilling through the firewall.) Next, I reviewed relevant sections of the service manual for familiarity with the clutch pedal arrangement, ignition interlock switch, carpet removal, and removal of the dead pedal footrest in order to pull back that area of the carpeting. Then, I measured how much Bottom Travel I wanted to eliminate. I did this by hooking a measuring tape on my left shoe, finding the clutch engagement point and then measuring the distance to the floor by holding the body of the measuring tape stationary while depressing the clutch. After several measurements I determined that the excess Bottom Travel was about two inches. Two inches would be the length of the bolt I needed to screw into the Plate.
2. Parts and Supplies. I needed four items of parts and supplies. I purchased: (a) one 2 inch long 3/16” bolt and, because I was not entirely confident with my scientific measurement, I also purchased a 1-1/2 inch long 3/16” bolt; (b) one 3/16” nut to serve as a counter pressure lock to secure the bolt in the Plate; (c) two flat neoprene faucet washers, about the diameter of the bolt head, to cap the bolt head where it will contact the clutch pedal arm; and (d) because I was reluctant to drill the firewall, I purchased JB Weld instead. (JB Weld is like a two-part epoxy glue.) Since the Plate is located on a near-vertical section of the firewall, I purchased JB Weld Quick Cure. No special tools were needed for the installation.
3. Plate Installation.
a. To the Firewall. To remove the carpeting from harm’s way, I removed the dead pedal footrest, removed the hand-tightened nut securing the top edge of the carpeting to the firewall, and pulled back the section of carpeting at risk. (The sides of the carpeting are tucked behind the left side interior panel with the fuse box and tucked behind the console heater vent on the right.) A sound-deadening batting material is underneath the carpeting. Next, I estimated the location of the Plate on the firewall by holding it in place (with the 2 inch bolt installed), depressing the clutch pedal by hand, and adjusting the location of the Plate so that the bolt head would contact the arm of the clutch pedal when depressed. I marked that location on the batting with a pencil by outlining the four edges of the Plate. Next I cut the batting on three of the four outlined edges of the Plate with a Stanley utility knife. I cut the two sides and the top (a little larger than the outline) to make a flap. Then I folded the flap along the bottom edge and tucked it under the main batting to keep it out of the way. Now, the steel of the firewall was exposed.
b. Attaching the Plate. First, observing the JB Weld instructions, I roughened the surfaces of the firewall and the Plate with a metal file. Next, as above, I determined the exact location of the Plate on the firewall by holding it in place (bolt installed), depressing the clutch pedal by hand, and adjusting the location of the Plate for centered contact between the bolt head and the clutch pedal arm. I marked that location on the firewall with a pencil by outlining the four edges of the Plate. Next I removed the bolt from the Plate, thinking that the extra weight would increase the tendency of the Plate to slide down the firewall until the JB Weld set up. Then I mixed up a batch of JB Weld, generously applied it to the back side of the Plate, pressed the Plate in the marked position on the firewall, and held it there for eight to ten minutes. (The directions for JB Weld Quick Cure say that it sets up in four minutes.) I let the JB Weld cure overnight.
Go to Part 3 of 4
350Z Clutch Pedal Stop - Part 3 of 4
4. Clutch-Ignition Interlock. NOTE that this step defeats a safety feature; after this step, your Z will start whether or not the clutch pedal is depressed. The clutch-ignition interlock switch is located at the top of the clutch pedal assembly. Although Jason advised to disconnect it, it actually needs to be jumped to close the circuit for the ignition to engage. I removed the switch with an adjustable wrench and then unplugged the blue wire connector. The connector has two female slots, like a wall plug. (Testing it here, the car would not start.) Next I made a jumper wire using a piece of wire about 1-1/4” long (approximately the same gauge as the ignition interlock wire). After digging through my computer parts bin, I soldered two standard male computer connector pins to the wire, with one on each end. Then I plugged the two connector pins into each of the slots in the ignition interlock connector to close the circuit. (Testing it here, the car started.) To finish this job, I secured the jumper wire to the ignition interlock connector with electrical tape and attached the dangling connector to the clutch pedal assembly with electrical tape. I put the removed ignition interlock switch in my Z-parts bin but it could easily be reinstalled in its place on the clutch pedal assembly. An alternative to making a jumper wire would be to cut the two wires from the ignition interlock connector and tape or solder them together to close the circuit.
5. Completing the Installation.
a. Reversing Access to Firewall. After letting the JB Welded Plate cure overnight, I untucked the flap in the sound-deadening batting and felt exactly where the nut on the Plate was located. Then I cut a circular hole in the batting, exactly around the nut, with an x-acto knife. Next I used duct tape to repair the batting where the flap had been cut by placing the duct tape underneath the main batting on all three sides, sticky side up, with about half the width of the tape attached and the other half exposed. Then I pressed the batting flap onto the exposed portion of the tape. Then I replaced the carpeting by tucking the edges back behind the left side interior panel and behind the console heater vent and attaching the hand-tightened nut securing the top of the carpet to the firewall. Next, I replaced the dead pedal footrest (with far more fussing around than should be necessary). The nut on the Plate was exposed just above the top edge of the carpeting, so nothing more needed to be done to the carpeting.
b. Out of the Garage. Before installing the stop bolt, I moved the car to the driveway where I had plenty of room to recover from the unexpected.
c. The Stop Bolt. I screwed the 3/8” nut I had purchased onto the 2 inch bolt and then screwed the bolt into the nut of the Plate. I was careful not to screw the bolt beyond firm contact with the firewall because that would lift the glued down Plate. Once the bolt made contact with the firewall, I screwed the 3/8” nut down the bolt to meet the nut of the Plate and serve as a counter lock to prevent the bolt from loosening under the vibration of the firewall. While holding the bolt stationary with a vise grips (to prevent lifting the Plate), I tightened the 3/8” nut against the nut on the Plate with an adjustable wrench.
d. Trial and Error. I sat in the car and depressed the clutch to the pedal stop several times. It felt good. Then I started the car. It would not go into first gear. It would not even grind at first; it was as if the gate for first gear did not even exist. So, I reversed the procedure above to remove the 2” bolt and replaced it with the 1-1/2” bolt I had purchased for insurance: Perfect.
e. Final Details. After putting some miles on the car with the new clutch pedal stop that afternoon, I finished the job by installing the neoprene cap on the head of the bolt. To do this, I removed the 1-1/2 inch bolt, roughened the top surface of the bolt head with a metal file, and roughened the surface on one side of the neoprene faucet washer with the file. After mixing up a small batch of JB Weld, I applied a coat to the bolt head, lightly pressed the neoprene cap to the bolt head and let it cure overnight. The next morning I reinstalled the stop bolt, counter locked as described above. The cap eliminated the metal-on-metal click of the clutch pedal arm on the stop bolt head and slightly softened the feel of pedal stop contact.
Go to Part 4 of 4
5. Completing the Installation.
a. Reversing Access to Firewall. After letting the JB Welded Plate cure overnight, I untucked the flap in the sound-deadening batting and felt exactly where the nut on the Plate was located. Then I cut a circular hole in the batting, exactly around the nut, with an x-acto knife. Next I used duct tape to repair the batting where the flap had been cut by placing the duct tape underneath the main batting on all three sides, sticky side up, with about half the width of the tape attached and the other half exposed. Then I pressed the batting flap onto the exposed portion of the tape. Then I replaced the carpeting by tucking the edges back behind the left side interior panel and behind the console heater vent and attaching the hand-tightened nut securing the top of the carpet to the firewall. Next, I replaced the dead pedal footrest (with far more fussing around than should be necessary). The nut on the Plate was exposed just above the top edge of the carpeting, so nothing more needed to be done to the carpeting.
b. Out of the Garage. Before installing the stop bolt, I moved the car to the driveway where I had plenty of room to recover from the unexpected.
c. The Stop Bolt. I screwed the 3/8” nut I had purchased onto the 2 inch bolt and then screwed the bolt into the nut of the Plate. I was careful not to screw the bolt beyond firm contact with the firewall because that would lift the glued down Plate. Once the bolt made contact with the firewall, I screwed the 3/8” nut down the bolt to meet the nut of the Plate and serve as a counter lock to prevent the bolt from loosening under the vibration of the firewall. While holding the bolt stationary with a vise grips (to prevent lifting the Plate), I tightened the 3/8” nut against the nut on the Plate with an adjustable wrench.
d. Trial and Error. I sat in the car and depressed the clutch to the pedal stop several times. It felt good. Then I started the car. It would not go into first gear. It would not even grind at first; it was as if the gate for first gear did not even exist. So, I reversed the procedure above to remove the 2” bolt and replaced it with the 1-1/2” bolt I had purchased for insurance: Perfect.
e. Final Details. After putting some miles on the car with the new clutch pedal stop that afternoon, I finished the job by installing the neoprene cap on the head of the bolt. To do this, I removed the 1-1/2 inch bolt, roughened the top surface of the bolt head with a metal file, and roughened the surface on one side of the neoprene faucet washer with the file. After mixing up a small batch of JB Weld, I applied a coat to the bolt head, lightly pressed the neoprene cap to the bolt head and let it cure overnight. The next morning I reinstalled the stop bolt, counter locked as described above. The cap eliminated the metal-on-metal click of the clutch pedal arm on the stop bolt head and slightly softened the feel of pedal stop contact.
Go to Part 4 of 4
350Z Clutch Pedal Stop - Part 4 of 4
f. One Mishap. As you can see, this is an easy mod. Because I am fussy in the extreme, I think it took me the better part of four hours. Normal people could probably install the pedal stop in one or two hours. Even with my cautious approach I still had one mishap. I melted a spot in the middle of the carpet with my worklight. It is about the size of a dime and completely covered by the floor mat. I will probably repair the spot at some point. But, if you are going to install a clutch pedal stop, you might as well learn from my mistakes.
g. Testing. To be certain that the clutch is fully disengaged when the clutch pedal is fully depressed (i.e., not burning my clutch to a slow death) I tested the pedal position with the pedal stop installed. After the car warmed up, I put the car in neutral and observed the tach. Then with the car in first gear and with the clutch pedal fully depressed, the tach gives an identical reading. Additionally, I can feel there is still a slight amount of free play in the Bottom Travel; not much but the engagement point is clear.
6. The Results. I have been driving with this mod for about a month and I am absolutely delighted with the outcome. I do not track my car, nor do I have any racing experience. But, when I lean on it, I want results. With quick starts, I know exactly where the engagement point is, without a never-never land of Bottom Travel. Bang; gone. Quick shifting is great with no guesswork about where disengagement/engagement will occur. I stab the clutch to the stop; shift; gone. And, my driving position is vastly improved. Before, in order to have the clutch pedal fully depressed, I was closer to the steering wheel than I wanted to be and the accelerator pedal was uncomfortably close. With the clutch pedal stop installed I have been able to move the driver’s seat rearward and be in an ideal driving position. Now, my reach to the steering wheel gives me perfect control and my orientation to the accelerator is comfortable. Without even knowing it could be better, my reach to the shift lever is also greatly improved.
I recommend that anyone in the short to medium height groups check out this mod. Jason’s clutch pedal stop (Jason at Performance Nissan) is very inexpensive and, with a couple of hours of easy installation, can improve your quick starts, quick shifts, and driving position comfort and control.
g. Testing. To be certain that the clutch is fully disengaged when the clutch pedal is fully depressed (i.e., not burning my clutch to a slow death) I tested the pedal position with the pedal stop installed. After the car warmed up, I put the car in neutral and observed the tach. Then with the car in first gear and with the clutch pedal fully depressed, the tach gives an identical reading. Additionally, I can feel there is still a slight amount of free play in the Bottom Travel; not much but the engagement point is clear.
6. The Results. I have been driving with this mod for about a month and I am absolutely delighted with the outcome. I do not track my car, nor do I have any racing experience. But, when I lean on it, I want results. With quick starts, I know exactly where the engagement point is, without a never-never land of Bottom Travel. Bang; gone. Quick shifting is great with no guesswork about where disengagement/engagement will occur. I stab the clutch to the stop; shift; gone. And, my driving position is vastly improved. Before, in order to have the clutch pedal fully depressed, I was closer to the steering wheel than I wanted to be and the accelerator pedal was uncomfortably close. With the clutch pedal stop installed I have been able to move the driver’s seat rearward and be in an ideal driving position. Now, my reach to the steering wheel gives me perfect control and my orientation to the accelerator is comfortable. Without even knowing it could be better, my reach to the shift lever is also greatly improved.
I recommend that anyone in the short to medium height groups check out this mod. Jason’s clutch pedal stop (Jason at Performance Nissan) is very inexpensive and, with a couple of hours of easy installation, can improve your quick starts, quick shifts, and driving position comfort and control.
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Sorry for no photos; my camera is on the blink. I have the stock clutch. Jason sold the Pedal Stop to me at his cost as a prototype experiment; ask him how much Performance wants for it on regular sales. (Very inexpensive.) And, thanks for the compliment on the write up; it took some time.
After reading this post I went to Performance Nissan yesterday after work, thinking I can get one to take some pictures. But they didnt have it in stock then and I didnt have time to go there again today. Maybe i'll drop by during the weekend and pick one up for the photo...or maybe I'll make one myself.
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From: so cali 909-951-626
who did you talk to here?
we have many of these in stock, however they are already part of the tilton clutch kits. We will be posting pictures up later on next week for everyone hopefully.
we have many of these in stock, however they are already part of the tilton clutch kits. We will be posting pictures up later on next week for everyone hopefully.
Originally Posted by Tony@Performance
who did you talk to here?
we have many of these in stock, however they are already part of the tilton clutch kits. We will be posting pictures up later on next week for everyone hopefully.
we have many of these in stock, however they are already part of the tilton clutch kits. We will be posting pictures up later on next week for everyone hopefully.
