momo906

same exact situation tonight.. 1500 miles on the 06 6MT .. was on a long empty road figured I'd give it a run, dumped revved to 3500rpm featherd out the clutch only the clutch stuck to the floor board.. I let of right away.. freaked me out, I thought I fried the clutch..

Damn that clutch smell sucks!! How much life do ya think it took off the clutch?? I drive hard, but rarely ever ride the clutch.. I am fluid in and out gas/clutch..


That would have pissed me off at the track!!
thanks
mike

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Happened when my car was on the dyno for tuning, with my new JWT-like mentioned above its when the fluid gets hot in most cases...braided clutch line+good fluid=good to go

toretto26

i had the same problem, took it to the dealer and they ssaid it was fine, actually i took it to the dealer twice to check my navigation and both times i had them look at my clutch and they said nothing was wrong, i was pissed

toretto26

i had the same problem, took it to the dealer and they ssaid it was fine, actually i took it to the dealer twice to check my navigation and both times i had them look at my clutch and they said nothing was wrong, i was pissed

Chad68

iTrader: (1)

That's what they do. they tell you nothing is wrong, so they can get you out of their shop fast and not cost them the $$$ for a mechanic to actually look at the problem. For them it's like sweeping dirt under the rug. They think if they ignore you, both you and your problems will just go away.

They will not look at your car unless it actualy breaks down and even then you will have to break their ***** to get them to look at it.

This is the EXACT reason why I flat out refused the extended warranty cuz they are totaly useless, just like ALL dealerships, regardless of brand.

I called my dealer about this sticking clutch BS and the clicking sound today because mine has done it twice and I haven't even mailed off the first payment yet and he said he'd talk to his mechanic and call me back in 20 minutes. That was hmmm how many hours ago???

I'm just going to keep a log of who I called, when I called and what I told them and how they never called me back, then when it breaks down I will have my cell phone records to show that I did in fact call them at said times and got no help from them.

Dealrships are useless people.

momo906

Hey, I had it happen again today and it has me wondering.. Did I cause it?

Someone today told me that I might have caused it. They said It could happen if you are "on" the throttle while shifting from 1st to 2nd ( powershifting? )


Has anyone spoken with their dealer? Results? I am taking it in next week to let them look at it.

I kinda understand what a clutch is doing, but what causes the clutch to be stuck ( dis-engaged or partially engaged ) like we have all seen?

thanks
mike

hidehide

iTrader: (3)

Today, my first time to try launching from 3000rpm..
The clutch was sticked there in 1st gear and 2nd gear!!
I can feel the burning smell of the clutch even my nose is blocked...

Damn, what's going on?? Its my problem or the car's problem???

done12many2

iTrader: (33)

Do you mean the clutch was stuck to the floor from the point that you attempted to engage the clutch for 1st gear through the point where you attempted in engage it again for 2nd?

WOW. Talk about being one with your Z! I have never met another Z owner that can feel a smell.

If it's your car's problem, it just became your problem too

hidehide

iTrader: (3)

No.. The clutch stuck after i had released it about half way.. and then i tried to shift to the 2nd gear, and then it was stuck half way in the 2nd gear too.

lol, i typed wrong.. i should say smell the clutch burning..

Leo14

Happens to me also. I have an 05 with about 15k miles and it started happening around 12k. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the clutch assembly.Well, that didn't help cause it still does it. However, it only does it when i dowshift hard or under hard acceleration after a while. I'm going to try to replace the clutch lines and fluid.

3five0_GT

Damn thing happened to me too. 06' GT Roadster.
Revved to 3000rpm and bam, the sticky thang happened.
I had to pull over because the smell was so bad and I could not get the car moving. Once I came to a complete stop in the seven- eleven parking lot, I started the car but I couldn't get it into gear. So turned the egine off and left the key in the on position and still, I could not get it into any gear. I turn the ignition off and then was finally able to get into a gear. I was all smiles. Started the car and same thing happened. I couldn't get it into a gear. So I turn the car off again. This time I put the car into gear first and pressed down on the clutch, then tried to start the car. The car jerked like it would when you would stall. Weird. I never had this experience before from a manual transmission. Not even in a Honda civic.

Will this ruin the Transmission or just the clutch?

z06 kos

I'll chime in on this...from a Corvette z06 owner.

the clutch on my z06 was consistently sticking and I was no longer able to speed shift the way I used to, after a few weeks of hard runs.

Following Rangers (on Vette forum) clutch fluid swap procedures, now my clutch feels brand new.

My buddy with a BPU supra started swapping his fluid out every week and his clutch is better as well.

3five0_GT

Someone stated the smell goes away after a day or two.
It's been 3 days and when I went home yesterday, poped the hood open and I can still smell it. I must have burned it real bad. Driving is fine, but I feel that the car does not sound the same and feel the same. May just be me, but I dont have that deep tone anymore. I get more of a humming sound. Weird. Input would help.

Should I take it to nissan to check it out?

Leo14

I changed the clutch line with the one from Mossy. I also changed the fluid with Motul Dot 4. So far so good. Clutch fully disengages now.

deathfist

i know this is an old one...
but my 05 roadster has had the same problem from day one. at 15k or so it happened. replaced the master and slave cylinder..at 36 had the same problem.. replaced same parts. luckily these repairs were warranty and extended warranty. now at 82k same thing happened. went back to the dealer and they said the hydraulic fluid was contaminated. so its nearing the end of my extended warranty, the dealer told me the insurance company would send an inspector and suggested i replace the fluid, check it out and if it happens, come back and then call the insurance in. so i did. had same problem. went back to deal, they called the insurance, an inspector came out and supposedly test drove the car and could not duplicate the problem.

so my problem seems that when the car gets hot the clutch sticks... ok so i did some research on other forums.. we need to upgrade out fluid to dot4 and change it regularly...

anyway, back to my problem.. the claim was denied since the problem couldn't be duplicated. i called the insurance company and told them that its a dily driver and drives over 80 miles a day.. stop and go.. it fails when its warm. the inspector didn't warm the car up, he just drove it cold, said he didn't have time... long and short, i convinced the insurane company to honor the warranty and they did...

so someone above, chad68, says that extended warranties are useless.. maybe so, but if your car is a daily driver, maybe not. i put over 85 miles on my 05 350z roadster every day. thats minimu 425 miles a week. i get gas twice a week. my car is in stop and go traffic for at least 1/3 of those miles.... you may wish to reconsider it.
i paid $1500 for my extended warranty. each claim has a $75 deductible. so you figure it out...
this is what i have received from my warranty
1 master and slave clutch cylinder. at least $500
2 airbag module failed at least $150
3 throttle body and sensor this was $800 +
4 convertible top--frame failure,bow bent, top damaged and ripped. insurance company balked on nissan's replacemnt cost of $10k for a the new mechanical frame and top (they wanted to replace the entire mechanical parts as well as the top). i settled for an aftermarket top and having the thing fixed by a specialist.. this was over $2500
5 second clutch master and slave cylinders.$500
6 the "cradle" this is something in the rear end that has a rubber mount and makes a noise upon acceleration.. this part alone is $1200!!

i think i did pretty well on the extended warranty!


anyway, i found this on a corvette forum about the clutch fluid

"CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM (condition) - is made up of a master cylinder hydraulically plumbed to a slave (actuator) cylinder. The hydraulic clutch fluid...is hydroscopic and over time it tends to absorb moisture indirectly from the atmosphere. The fluid reservoir features a vented twist-off cap enclosing a drop-in atmospheric moisture barrier type seal. The upside-down top-hat shaped barrier also acts as an atmospheric pressure equalization member responsible for reducing the tendency of gravity induced leakage of fluid from the system."

****

"A Common Problem with - the clutch hydraulic slave (actuator) cylinder is that they are susceptible to developing a hang up spot between the seal and the bore at the fully extended end of the cylinder's travel range.

This seal-hang-up condition normally develops when moisture is present in the hydraulic system and the vehicle is not in use for several days and/or weeks at a time. This hang up spot is usually caused by oxidation and/or contaminant build up causing a segment of the bore to have a higher seal to bore surface tension than the rest. It usually forms at the fully extended seal-to-bore contact point.

The hydraulic clutch system is a relatively low pressure system and does not exert enough barrel pressure to free the slave cylinder wall of this type of build up after it has developed.

The problem with this condition is that the clutch hydraulic system will bleed out normally but still have a hang up spot present. This condition creates a problematic operational situation in the system where even a full clutch pedal depression will not allow complete disengagement of the clutch for more than just a brief instance when the pedal is depressed and held to the floor.

The initial hydraulic fluid surge within the slave cylinder presses the actuation rod far enough for complete disengagement only to spring back slightly when pedal movement is halted in the fully depressed state. The spring back is caused by flex in the slave cylinder seal getting hung up and stretching a bit further only to return to its normal shape when surge pressure subsides.

This condition will mislead most technicians into believing that the clutch hydraulic system is operating at an acceptable level. Under these conditions, exactly timed quick shifts will occur fairly smoothly because the brief instance that the slave cylinder bore seal stretches is the same instant that the shift occurs. When the shift sequence is slowed down, the spring back of the slave cylinder occurs before the shift lever actuation causing a not-so-smooth gear engagement event. This causes the synchronizer to work much harder than necessary and is exposes the synchronizers and dogteeth to potential damage especially during higher RPM shifting."

some guy named RANGER wrote that.. forgot the site....

i plan on chaning my fluid out to dot4 and doing it at least every other month!

later doug