I've been looking at this stuff for several years, but never had the opportunity or reason to use it - until now. Evans makes a waterless coolant that replaces ALL the water/antifreeze in your system. This has all been debated to the nth degree elsewhere (see links below), so I will not repeat it. I will say that this is some of the most interesting reading I've ever found on an online forum. I'm planning to switch to the Evans NPG+, continue using regular gas, and advance my timing a few degrees (courtesy of the local dealership). The results will be no detonation, more horsepower, higher efficiency (better gas mileage), higher coolant temperature, AND lower engine temperature. Sound too good to be true? Look at the threads below and make up your own mind. I do not plan to defend anything here, that has already been done by others much smarter and more experienced than I. When I finish the conversion and get some data, I may update this with the results.

Here's Evans' home page.

http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

Here's two of the discussions:

http://www.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=74129

http://camaross.com/forums/showthrea...3&page=1&pp=15

 

Thank you for this undrgnd!

I'm going to poor over it when I get a chance. Looking forward to reading your report after you have tested this.

Mike

 

hey i'll try it, i mean, what's the worst thing that'll happen? Any evidence on it having bad drawbacks?

that's a lot of stuff to read thru

I'm still thinking I'll do a 75% distilled water, 25% coolant, and 1 bottle of water wetter though

I live in AZ and rarely see freezing temps, but the AC in the summer can get possibly freeze things up if there's not some coolant in the system

 

No, you DON'T want to do that. You must not have got to the part that says that this stuff is gygroscopic and will lose its effectiveness with even 1% water. It is explained in detail that water will create pockets of steam vapor against the engine jacket walls, drastically reducing the heat transfer coefficient. THAT'S how this stuff works. You really do need to read this before if you intend to try it, or you may screw up your engine.

You also DON'T want to change the radiator cap to a 0psig or even a 7psig cap because Nissans, like most foreign cars, have the high pressure side at the radiator, unlike American cars where the pump discharges into the block. This is something you won't see on their website, but I picked up by talking with one of their engineers.

BTW, the AC is NOT going to freeze up your system in the summer without coolant (I think you meant antifreeze) in the system. The antifreeze actually INCREASES the boiling point so that the added heat load of the AC does not detrimentally impact the cooling system.

 

are you talking about the Evans product or me doing 75% water with 25% coolant and waterwetter?


I've been thinking of doing 50/50 mix of water and water wetter. I live in AZ and my car is stored in the garage at nights usually, but not always. Anyone have any thoughts on that? Redline has said they usually recommend 80% water, 20% coolant and 1 bottle of water wetter so the freezing point is lowered a little bit and that during the summer with the AC running so hard it can cause the radiator fluid to possibly freeze - This is what I've read online anyway as a blanket statement for all cars, not the Z specifically.

The AC here gets used pretty hard in the summer



Are you saying that anyone with an aftermarket radiator cap (nismo, ARC, whatever) it's a bad thing?

 

Yes, I was talking about the Evans product; I misunderstood what you were referring to.

There is no way your coolant system will freeze by running the AC in the summertime, in AZ or in Maine, or anywhere else. In fact, running the AC raises coolant temperature, all else being equal. Lowering the freezing point would REDUCE the likelihood of your system freezing, so that's all FUBAR. In 45 years of working on cars I have never heard that ever happening, so I can say pretty definately that it's not true.

No, what I'm saying is that if you switch to the Evans product, do not replace your radiator cap with a low pressure unit. That only works for American cars, for the reason stated above. If you were running an LT1 you'd be able to run a vented system, never experience boilover, and extend cooling system life many times over. Not with a Nissan though.

 

ah ok i understand

redline says this:

 

I understand where you're coming from. That won't happen any more because newer cars' hvac controls do not isolate the heater core with shutoff valves like in the old days, primarily to prevent rust-out. Even when it happened in the older cars, it had no effect on the engine or the rest of the cooling system, since the heater core was isolated (unless the core cracked).