SES Light & code 1283
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I wasn't sure where to post this and I did a search but found only 1 inconclusive reference to the SES light and code 1283.
Anyone know what it is? I bought a cheap OBDII reader/reset tool but 1283 is not in the manual that came with it. I used it to read the code and reset it but it came back within 20 minutes of the reset. Maybe 10 miles or so. It came on while I was cruising slow and steady at about 30/35MPH in a congested area.
I need some input before I take to dealer. I hate going in not knowing what an issue is about. I don't want to get owned by them because I don't know what might be wrong.
Thanks in advance folks........................
Anyone know what it is? I bought a cheap OBDII reader/reset tool but 1283 is not in the manual that came with it. I used it to read the code and reset it but it came back within 20 minutes of the reset. Maybe 10 miles or so. It came on while I was cruising slow and steady at about 30/35MPH in a congested area.
I need some input before I take to dealer. I hate going in not knowing what an issue is about. I don't want to get owned by them because I don't know what might be wrong.
Thanks in advance folks........................
The only thing that I found on the net was this:
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage This code is stored when a break or short-circuit occurs temporarily at: an injector valve, wiring from the DME to an injector or the injector stage of the DME is damaged.
The 350Z Factory Service Manual does not have a reference to code 1283.
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage This code is stored when a break or short-circuit occurs temporarily at: an injector valve, wiring from the DME to an injector or the injector stage of the DME is damaged.
The 350Z Factory Service Manual does not have a reference to code 1283.
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I just found the same thing refering to a listing for BMW codes though.
This seemed to start after I did the Motordyne thermal gasket install. That requires removal of the upper and lower plenums and shoving a lot of stuff aside. Although I was carefull to put everything back together and checked each step to be sure nothing was left disconnected, I wonder if I missed something that could cause this?
Code 1283 from a BMW site says this exactly:
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage This code is stored when a break or short-circuit occurs temporarily at: an injector valve, wiring from the DME to an injector or the injector stage of the DME is damaged.
First off what does it mean and does anyone know if it is applicable to the Z?
Come on guys! I know that one of resident gurus out there has to know this one.
HELP.............................................
This seemed to start after I did the Motordyne thermal gasket install. That requires removal of the upper and lower plenums and shoving a lot of stuff aside. Although I was carefull to put everything back together and checked each step to be sure nothing was left disconnected, I wonder if I missed something that could cause this?
Code 1283 from a BMW site says this exactly:
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage This code is stored when a break or short-circuit occurs temporarily at: an injector valve, wiring from the DME to an injector or the injector stage of the DME is damaged.
First off what does it mean and does anyone know if it is applicable to the Z?
Come on guys! I know that one of resident gurus out there has to know this one.
HELP.............................................
OBDII codes are the same whether it's a BMW or a Nissan. You apparently have some type if wiring problem related to the fuel injection system. Didn't damage any FI connectors or squeeze part of a wiring harness between the IM and collector, did you?
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Originally Posted by undrgnd
OBDII codes are the same whether it's a BMW or a Nissan. You apparently have some type if wiring problem related to the fuel injection system. Didn't damage any FI connectors or squeeze part of a wiring harness between the IM and collector, did you?
I guess I need to check around in there. I wish the description was more specific so I could focus in on the most probable cause and area to check.
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
The only thing that I found on the net was this:
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage This code is stored when a break or short-circuit occurs temporarily at: an injector valve, wiring from the DME to an injector or the injector stage of the DME is damaged.
The 350Z Factory Service Manual does not have a reference to code 1283.
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage This code is stored when a break or short-circuit occurs temporarily at: an injector valve, wiring from the DME to an injector or the injector stage of the DME is damaged.
The 350Z Factory Service Manual does not have a reference to code 1283.
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I'm leaning toward undrgnd's theory of damaging the injector harness. It doesn't seems likely on such a new car, but I know on my older Z's you have to be careful when working around them. You could bump them and it would break the plastic casing around the connector.
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
I'm leaning toward undrgnd's theory of damaging the injector harness. It doesn't seems likely on such a new car, but I know on my older Z's you have to be careful when working around them. You could bump them and it would break the plastic casing around the connector.
Westpak's info was good. The conditions is right on. Warm engine steady low rpm cruising. Is air fuel ratio sensor a fancy name for the MAF or is this something else?
Last edited by ZinMiami; Oct 5, 2005 at 03:04 PM.
I can't find the section Westpak posted in the FSM so I assume it's from another Nissan manual. Since the reference is to A/F sensors 1 & 2 as well as Bank 1 & 2, my guess would be that they're talking about the O2 sensors or something equivalent for another model.
The listed possible cause of fuel injector would still point you back to the wiring harness. The cause "intake air leaks" seems very likely considering that you were replacing the manifold gasket. If it was me, I would start searching for some kind of air leak.
The listed possible cause of fuel injector would still point you back to the wiring harness. The cause "intake air leaks" seems very likely considering that you were replacing the manifold gasket. If it was me, I would start searching for some kind of air leak.
Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
What section and page? I have an 04 manual that I thought covered the 04.5 cars too.
It is in EC-478
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I'm going to take things apart this weekend and check everything step by step that was touched by the MD Isothermal gasket install. Hopefully I will find the cause. If anyone can give me any other advise or pointers from here till Saturday, please do.
Originally Posted by westpak
There are 2 manuals one covers 04 models through VIN 6000 and then another for past that which is the 04.5
It is in EC-478
It is in EC-478
Originally Posted by ZinMiami
I'm going to take things apart this weekend and check everything step by step that was touched by the MD Isothermal gasket install. Hopefully I will find the cause. If anyone can give me any other advise or pointers from here till Saturday, please do.
Unless you don't have a 04.5 and up then that code doesn't exist for 03 or 04.
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Westpak,
Do you know where is is? Maybe it's something I just bumped or loosened a connection. I would like to check it before I go to the dealer with it. Also, do you or anyone know what will be involved if it is this sensor, to change it out.
I have the MD spacer, ISoThermal gasket and Intake. Does all the this hardware and plumbing need to come off? If it does I have concerns about what the dealer will say and if they would even put it all back together properly.
Is this a sensor I can see or get to without disassembly?
Lastly, what makes you so sure thats it? It does list 3 other potential causes. Fuel pressure, fuel injector and Intake air leaks.
Do you know where is is? Maybe it's something I just bumped or loosened a connection. I would like to check it before I go to the dealer with it. Also, do you or anyone know what will be involved if it is this sensor, to change it out.
I have the MD spacer, ISoThermal gasket and Intake. Does all the this hardware and plumbing need to come off? If it does I have concerns about what the dealer will say and if they would even put it all back together properly.
Is this a sensor I can see or get to without disassembly?
Lastly, what makes you so sure thats it? It does list 3 other potential causes. Fuel pressure, fuel injector and Intake air leaks.
Last edited by ZinMiami; Oct 6, 2005 at 03:13 AM.
ZinMiami,
If there is a leak, it would most likely show up with typical leak symptoms. Hissing, buzzing or rough idle.
Have you noticed any of these?
One way to trouble shoot the problem is to intentionally create a leak by pulling the rubber plug off the hose nipple at the front of the plenum. Or you could unplug one of the smaller hoses to do the same.... If this causes a new type of trouble code it would suggest the problem is not leak related. If there are no new codes, it may or may not indicate it is leak related and you still need to trouble shoot.
You can also try spraying carburator cleaner around potential leak areas to see what that does. The idle changes significantly when you hit a leak spot.
Then there is listening carefully by ear or with a mechanics stethiscope. You can improvise on the scope with a short length of metal tubing connected to a 1/4" ID rubber or vinyl hose. When the metal side of the tube approaches a localized noise source you can hear the noise or sound very clearly.
LMK what you find.
Tony
If there is a leak, it would most likely show up with typical leak symptoms. Hissing, buzzing or rough idle.
Have you noticed any of these?
One way to trouble shoot the problem is to intentionally create a leak by pulling the rubber plug off the hose nipple at the front of the plenum. Or you could unplug one of the smaller hoses to do the same.... If this causes a new type of trouble code it would suggest the problem is not leak related. If there are no new codes, it may or may not indicate it is leak related and you still need to trouble shoot.
You can also try spraying carburator cleaner around potential leak areas to see what that does. The idle changes significantly when you hit a leak spot.
Then there is listening carefully by ear or with a mechanics stethiscope. You can improvise on the scope with a short length of metal tubing connected to a 1/4" ID rubber or vinyl hose. When the metal side of the tube approaches a localized noise source you can hear the noise or sound very clearly.
LMK what you find.
Tony
The sensor is down on the headers right before the cat, bank 2 I htink is the passenger side.
The reason it is probably the sensor is becuase there have been others with that issue as well.
Unless you were a gorilla you shouldn't have messed up the injectors or clips, also you would have issues with the car running properly/starting...... same with an intake leak
The reason it is probably the sensor is becuase there have been others with that issue as well.
Unless you were a gorilla you shouldn't have messed up the injectors or clips, also you would have issues with the car running properly/starting...... same with an intake leak
The A/F sensor and the O2 sensor are the same thing. The difference may be that one is a wideband vs narrowband, but based on the location description above, it sounds like the same component. I don't see why you would ever be near the O2 sensor, so I doubt that's the problem, unless it's one hell of a coincidence.




