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Want to get 287HP up to 300HP w/ no loss TQ

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Old 10-11-2005, 02:31 PM
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Rampage
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Default Want to get 287HP up to 300HP w/ no loss TQ

OK I have seen Tony's post of the mod he is working on for the 05-06 Rev up motor and I have read with interest the comments and mod list the Alberto uses on his car. I have also seen several other 287HP owners begging for some insight on bolt ons for that motor.

So here is the question: What bolt on mods should I get to make the 287HP match the 300HP of the new motor with NO loss of torque?

I am looking for cost effectiveness, reliability and ease of install. (just like most people). I don't care about huge horsepower gains, just a little more umph and bragging rights to say I have a 3.5 Ltr 300HP motor that still makes gobs of torque. I will not sacrifice the torque to get the HP.

Help us out guys. Please don't just say use "search" because you can look all day for bits and pieces of the puzzle. Let's put it all in one post. Thanks.
Old 10-11-2005, 02:58 PM
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Zquicksilver
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04 base model... $1400 in mods...

Intake with heat shield...
AAM angled plenum
TS Headers
Helix HF cats
Stock exhaust...
no tune...a/f was fine according to Tuan from GRD.

Sorry I never did a base run. And I don't want to highjack your thread with dyno pics.
These were the results from GRD in Naperville, IL.

249@ 6300
245 @ 4600


17% loss = 300hp and 295tq at the flywheel.

Zquicksilver
Old 10-11-2005, 03:21 PM
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Nismo 350z
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headers crank pulley pop charger and exhaust.
Old 10-11-2005, 03:25 PM
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D350Z10
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Crawford headers... well over 300 and about 295 tq at the flywheel
Old 10-11-2005, 05:49 PM
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Rampage
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Thanks to all that responded.


Originally Posted by D350Z10
Crawford headers... well over 300 and about 295 tq at the flywheel
Are you saying the Crawford headers will do the job on thier own? I did not think there was any single mod that would pick up 13HP and some torque on it's own.

It the JWT Popcharger superior to the Aem or Injen CAI? I noticed that the road racers were using those at the race track.
Old 10-11-2005, 08:08 PM
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gabez33
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Are you talking RWHP?? Cause its 287 in the books but allot lower to the wheels.
Old 10-11-2005, 10:19 PM
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FLZ_Boy
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Some alternative ways:

1. If you live in a stated that only offers 91 octane, just find the nearest gas station that has 100 and pump a few gallons in. Of course, you want to mix enough that you run around 93 octane. If your in a state that offers 93 octane, your in good shape. I've done this several times and the dyno appears to give roughly 7RWHP for using mixed gas. Of course, I wouldn't expect miracles with running mixed gas.

2. Take out your jacks, spare, floormats and run a 1/4 tank everyday. No cost, just inconvient at times.

3. Hope you got lucky and bought a factory freak Z that outputs and dynos the same as a rev-up motor. Not everyone gets lucky, the flip-side is you could have gotten a lemon too.

4. You can buy a Nismo S-Tune Exhaust and use the other 3 suggested above.

5. Do nothing, and just buy the next generation Z. Then the vicious cycle starts all over again.
Old 11-06-2005, 11:11 AM
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bordy51
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Default 287 HP to 300 HP

What procedure would my dealer need to go through to boost my HP from 287 to 300 (Track Model). I have automatic transmission. My Z is a 2003. Thanks.
Old 11-06-2005, 11:54 AM
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jnkirk1974
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I agree. To get 300hp at the crank is extremely easy. I have the G35 and I guarantee I've exceeded that by now. The exhaust and intake alone will put you past the 300hp mark (at the crank). Now, it will take A LOT MORE than that to get 300hp at the wheels.
Old 11-06-2005, 12:01 PM
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jnkirk1974
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Again, going from 298 to 300 hp is nothing. Farting in your car will boost your hp to 300hp (at the crank). Seriously, intake....exhaust.....plenum spacer will get you to 300hp (at the crank). No big deal.

Now, 300hp at the wheels is a whole 'nother deal.
Old 11-06-2005, 12:06 PM
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jnkirk1974
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Originally Posted by Rampage
Thanks to all that responded.




Are you saying the Crawford headers will do the job on thier own? I did not think there was any single mod that would pick up 13HP and some torque on it's own.

It the JWT Popcharger superior to the Aem or Injen CAI? I noticed that the road racers were using those at the race track.
I would definitely go with the Pop Charger of a cold-air intake. Cold-air intakes may boost your hp at the top end (which may give you some bragging rights if you just want to be able to quote a lofty HP total to your friends). However, you are guaranteed to lose low-end power. Stay away from the cold-air intake.....especially the AEM intake (and the Nismo intake). You WILL DEFINITELY LOSE LOW END POWER!!!!!!!

The Still intake and JWT Pop Charger will help you more than hurt you. Also, remember than no intake will give you a large boost in power. If anyone tells you otherwise, they have no idea what they are talking about.

I have the Pop-Charger (with the Z-tube), because I also have the MD 1/2" spacer with the Iso Thermal gasket and wanted to boost the air flow. These two mods together make a nice combination.

My opinion:

Good: Stillen intake, JWT pop-charger and stock box with z-tube.

Fair: Injen intake

Bad: Nismo and AEM intake (both are made by AEM and are identical designs).

Now, if you really want bragging rights (again we are only talking about power to the crank....not wheels), you can do this:

My current set-up:

JWT Pop-Charger
Z-tube
Motordyne 1/2" spacer with Iso Thermal Gasket
10-wire Grounding Kit
Crawford Cats
Borla Exhaust

Purchased but not installed:

UR crank pulley


Now, I have no idea what that gives me at the crank (maybe someone can estimate it for me....I have the 280hp 2005 G35 Coupe Automatic), but it would give you bragging rights about the crank HP. Again, understand that power at the crank really means nothing in the real world. It's power to the wheels that really matters.

Last edited by jnkirk1974; 11-06-2005 at 12:14 PM.
Old 11-06-2005, 02:06 PM
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SteveZ33
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Originally Posted by FLZ_Boy
Some alternative ways:

1. If you live in a stated that only offers 91 octane, just find the nearest gas station that has 100 and pump a few gallons in. Of course, you want to mix enough that you run around 93 octane. If your in a state that offers 93 octane, your in good shape. I've done this several times and the dyno appears to give roughly 7RWHP for using mixed gas. Of course, I wouldn't expect miracles with running mixed gas.
Huh ? 93 octane (or more) produces more (slightly) HP in the 350Z ? All I use here in NJ is Shell 93 or Sunoco 94. Wonder if I'm benefiting from this claim?
Old 11-06-2005, 02:26 PM
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If you're looking for 13 additional hp the answer is here:

“New 350Z owners, read this before doing any modifications to your Z.”

With any bolt-on modification, no one can promise additional peak ho AND addition peak torque.
Old 11-06-2005, 03:51 PM
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jnkirk1974
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Originally Posted by davidv
If you're looking for 13 additional hp the answer is here:

“New 350Z owners, read this before doing any modifications to your Z.”

With any bolt-on modification, no one can promise additional peak ho AND addition peak torque.
Are you a lawyer?
Old 11-08-2005, 10:47 PM
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Z33FairLady_Z
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i cant decide if i should go with pop charger or Injen intake..
Old 11-09-2005, 03:45 AM
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jnkirk1974
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Originally Posted by Rampage
Thanks to all that responded.




Are you saying the Crawford headers will do the job on thier own? I did not think there was any single mod that would pick up 13HP and some torque on it's own.

It the JWT Popcharger superior to the Aem or Injen CAI? I noticed that the road racers were using those at the race track.
I will DEFINITELY say that the Pop Charger is superior to the AEM intake.
Old 11-09-2005, 04:30 AM
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HarvesterUT
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just because your gaining a few HP at redline doesnt mean your not losing power in the middle of the RPM band.

look at mods like good quality headers (nismo, crawford, alphawerks) and notice that they claim decent gains in both HP and TQ throughout the band....

also, its a general rule that true dual exhausts and exhausts with no backpressure gain more HP up top but lose TQ down low. However, cat-back exhausts usually dont lose anything down low but only provide half the gains up top. again, dyno's vary

power to weight ratio is the key factor is almost any car, and weight can be taken off from many places:

lightweight crank pulley
light flywheel
light/small wheels
removing trunk garbage
removing passenger seat, interior panels
lighter exhaust
test pipes
carbon fiber body (serious $$)


doing most of that can save you several hundred pounds and probably drop your 1/4mi time by a tenth of a second and maybe give you 1-2 mph....again it depends on the extent you're willing to go.

some guys have a race-ready Z @ 2700lbs but have nothing inside their cars!

Last edited by HarvesterUT; 11-09-2005 at 04:39 AM.


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