jgray

My '04 base model has been troubled with an oil burning issue and my dealer has opted to replace the engine with a new short block. So, I'm thinking that while they are in there I should make use of the labor and have them add a performance enhancement or two while the engine is out.

Does anyone have a suggestion on what I should or could do to boost the power without voiding the warranty (I have the extended warranty too)? I don't want to do anything as invasive as a Turbo or Supercharger, but I have been considering a new exhaust system with headers and/or cold air induction. I'm also wondering if these items could be done without needing to reprogram the computer.

Any thoughts?

bigDeesZ

Hi.. if your having the dealership installing the motor then your pretty much SOL!!
If not, they wont know if you did rods/pistons.. you could also do cams but that would void the warranty.. so like i said dealership is a no no... but if you had someone else do it, they would never know unless the engine blew!!! which it shouldnt at all..

The headers and CAI shouldnt void the warranty and wont need your ECU to be reflashed at all.. The only time you want to reflash is when you have done all your bolt ons and even cams maybe then do it...

But CAI/Headers wont do that much.. If your gonna do that, i would suggest a full dual exhaust...

All depends on where your having it done..

Im sure more people will reply!!

Good luck

barthelb

You can probably convince the dealer to add nismo cams and the flywheel and still remain in warranty. Other than that im pretty sure they wont do anything else. How about putting some forged rods and pistons in there. So if you turbo or anything your set. You might not have a warranty but you might convince the dealer to cancel your warranty and put those pistons and rods in. Saving you the labor and downtime later.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

The dealership will install anything you want and charge you for the labor difference if any. Aftermarket parts do not void your warranty. If the aftermarket item is causing your problem the "warranty claim" will be denied. Your warranty on everything else is still in tact.

Educate yourself on the Magnuson Moss Act. Don't let the dealerships lie to you. Dealerships have no idea what they are talking about. They are not lawyers and have no clue as to the law.

NISMO products are covered under the factory warranty and all claims will be processed.

Respect
JET

teh215

iTrader: (8)

If you plan on installing better rods/pistons/etc. in the future, one thing to consider is exactly how much money do you expect the warranty to save you vs. the cost of the labor to install better rods, etc. later. I would definitely think 5-year plan in this case. See if the Dealer will give you their cost of new OEM motor for an SGP block. There definitley is going to be somegive and take here.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

We need lots more info here.... what is your budget?

What should you definetly do?

Lightweight clutch and flywheel
Headers/full exhaust
Cams/Nismo heads

Respect
JET

jgray

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm especially intrigued by the info on the warranty.

As for my budget, well let's just say I've been saving for a rainy day for far too long. I live in Colorado at 6200 feet above sea level and do a lot of mountain driving upwards of 9000 feet. A little extra power would be nice given the altitude and the occasional track day. I don't want to spend 5K to get a 5-10hp gain, but I would spend 2-3K for something a little more substantial. I'm also thinking that I should upgrade the brakes too if I'm going for the extra power (but that doesn't apply to this thread unless you're talking about the overall cash output).

jgray

Man, I wish I had known this sooner. My dealer already has the short block on order from the factory and should be here any day now.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Now you see why eveyone goes forced induction.

Parts:
Cams: $1500
headers $400
Exhaust $600
Lightweight clutch and flywheel $1000 (organic/metallic)-$1700 (carbon)

Your already in the ballpark of $3600 for parts alone. Just the $2500 investment in headers and cams/exhaust will only see about 40 rwhp.

Forced induction is the only real solution for the return on your dollar. And now you know it won't void your entire car warranty. But if your snapping axles, bending connecting rods, blowing up transmissions etc. it's your dollar.

Respect
JET

barthelb

Until you get more power a Stoptech Stage 2 is good enough. Basically they get you different Rotors, more agressive pads. Steel braided lines up front and motul. that will drastically improve your braking feel, performance and fade. It cuts down on the brake dust a lil too.

bigDeesZ

if your budget is between 2-3k for now.. u need to think before that block goes in if you plan on going turbo, tt or supercharger or staying N/A!!

If u go single turbo, u wont need to build the bottom end.. and u can still get 400whp!
Supercharger u dont need to do any bottom end since it runs of belts,pulleys..
Twin turbo, i would def suggest bottom end work if u want max hp/tq and push that boost up..

So decide that now and save the money for later if u can!!

If not.. i would suggest

Cams JWT-1050, Crawford plenum 350, Crank Pulley, 150-175, Headers 300-600, Dual Exhaust, Flywheel JWT, 390.. Clutch if u can around 4-500... Thats it..

That will really get u on your way.. u dont need to brakes really yet.. u can just get stoptech slotted rotors.. if u want as well!! but no big brake yet.. pointless.. not enough hp.. it would only be for show at this point..

Thats all im doing now is just performance with some minor exterior things like a carbon fiber hood, rims/wheels/ tint...

Hp/Tq is more important then spending thousands on stereos, and big brakes..

i just had mined dynoed on a dynojet locally...

Just with bolt ons it was 261.59 hp, 245.44 tq at 6300 rpms.. after the 6300 rpm its just stayed level til redline..

i would also suggest if you plan on N/A or any Forced Induction for awhile to do a Techno Square reflash on your computer after all the stuff is done.. that will help as well.. usually runs about 575-595..

Good luck... but try to think hard before that engine goes in what your goal is definetly.. and keep us posted!!

fairladyZ in Japan

jgray .. curious .. how much oil were you burning ?

thanks

jgray

About a quart every 1000 miles. The dealer had me do an oil consumption test and then leak-down and compression tests. The latter tests revealed a 50% loss in in compression in one of the cylinders.