300whp is 100% possible N/A. how you go about doing that is up to you.....

my suggestion is:

lightweight internals
heads
cams (nismo v2, tomei, jwt)
raise compression to 11.0:1
ECU (also advance timing 1-2 deg)
pullies
flywheel
headers
cats
exhaust
intake
plenum (new MREV motordyne mod)
lightweight wheels (depending on dyno)

i'll be willing to bet you top out right at 300whp

 

All the stuff on your list I think more than 300.

 

Let's meet up for sure! I'm in Castro Valley!

 

Okay cool, I'll PM you when I get back.

 

Donde Esta El Crawford Klan?

 

No one has mentioned the S2000 technique yet.

All the other stuff already mentioned plus some hogged out ported heads, with 2mm+ oversized intake valves and ridiculous cams with a redline of 7500+.

I ported my IM this past week and the intake ports certainly looked nice from what I could see, but I bet at least a half dozen ponies could be found from a 3-angle and some surface work in the runners.

 

Ive thought about this in a few years or so. Looking into possibly a 4.0 with huge cams/headwork/oversized valves.

 

You could probably reach 285 with a Piggyback and a good tune since you are at 273.

 

I agree............+1

 

Im still on the fence with NA or FI. Ive seen plenty of FI Z cars running around, I want to see if I can post an impressive NA 350Z in a few years...

 

I guess my question is: Is a built longblock w/ 11.5 pistons, 287+ cams, ported and polished heads, multi angle valve job, Xerd or Crawford headers, Crawford Plenum, H/F or no cats, Fly wheel/clucth combo, e-manage or other tuning means, and regear to 3.9 going to get past 325 whp?

I ask b/c I'm selling the Lightning and buying a Z. LOng story there, but I'm simply out driving the truck and geting tired of breaking things, heads, rear end, shocks, etc...

ANyway I'm kind of used to 1:10 power to weight ratio. I could always do with more power, but I want to do it N/A. I've had my fill of FI, and I've only seen a couple of FI Zs that didn't have many nightmares associacted with them.

Is $15k a resonable price to see ~325 whp N/A?

Bryan

 

lightweight internals $275
heads $1900
cams (nismo v2, tomei, jwt) $1300
raise compression to 11.0:1 $1400
ECU (also advance timing 1-2 deg) $1000 for Utec
pullies $270
flywheel $300
headers $1000
cats $300
exhaust $1000
intake $100
plenum (new MREV motordyne mod) $200
lightweight wheels (depending on dyno) $2500

$11545 WITHOUT install

 

I would raise the compression to 11.5:1 and you don't need new heads, just get the stock ones ported. Also, the new MREV mod kills the top end, so I would not suggest that.

 

quoted from SGP's site

Basic Long Block: $4700 + $2000 core - Good up to 600 Rwhp


Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
Eagle rods
ARP Rod Studs
New bearing and rings
Wiseco Pistons .020 over(8.5:1 or 11.5:1)
Heads oil passages cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
3 angle valve job
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set
New Valve stem seals
New Nissan Head gaskets
New Nissan Oil Pump
New Nissan Cam seals

so add cams, flywheel, clutch, headers while motor is out and drop the motor yourself, you have a ~$10k investment. Add gears, plenum, short high flow exhaust, once in the frame. Strap to dyno with whatever the hawt piggy back of the month is and tune away, right?

 

Hate bringing up an old thread but I think its you can get pretty dam close. It will cost you though, just not as bad as many think. I was able to get gain 17rwhp & 10rwtq with just $800. What does $800 get you: refer to sig. Now I'm looking at getting the UTEC and my tuner & myself feel that with the UTEC ($1100 w/ install & tune) might be able to gain another 15rwhp & 15rwtq, est 265rwhp and 250rwtq. So at $1900-$2k I would have gained an est 32rwhp and 25rwtq. This is where it starts adding up: To get close to 300rwhp you need a full cat-back ($800-$1500), Headers ($1000), Cams ($1200), and you will now most likely need a stronger clutch ($600 Street Clutch Kit). I wouldn't suggest a lighten flywheel w/ underdrive pulley. Heard many people having problems. So the question is: Do you want to spend $5500-6000+ to get close to 300rwhp? F/I guys say no. N/A guys say yes. Its up to you.

 

It doesn't take that much for 300whp.

 

The Grand Am teams needed to use real long tube headers to get over 300rwhp. Using high flow cats or even test pipes strangle the exhaust. So, yes, it can and has been done. What's the saying.......You can go as fast as you're willing to let your wallet empty!

 

I am in the process of trying to do a 300 hp build up. We are pulling the motor in a week or two and I will be using all the mods I currently have with the addition of the following items:

11.0 to 1 Wiseco pistons
Eagle Rods
JWT cams
JWT springs and shims
UTEC

I am fairly confident that we will hit or exceed the 300 limit without any nitrous use.

 

Looking forward to seeing your results

I might be going with some cams and a port and polished head sometime this year. We will see.

Later
Aceman

 

word of advice(this is coming for a nismo sponsord racer)....if you want to hit over 300whp w/o FI

dont use the Nismo Cams