What fuse do you remove to burn out?
Just curious cause hitting up some dry runs tomarrow with a bunch of people in a club and want to embrass a few of them (cause they are mostly full of granny-shifting wannabe 2f2f drivers) so curious what fuse it is to do a standstill burnout
Originally Posted by Juztin
I dont know whether to laugh or.... laugh!
your talking about the fuse to kill the ecu from cutting power to the wheels when the brakes and gas are applied?
i cant tell ya what fuse it is, but from what ive read theres a brake fuse mod that lets you disable what you want disabled. I think the fuse is under the center armrest, mayve im thinking about the full vdc disabling.
in any case, use the search button for more info, maybe even a tutorial.
I know lol. I just find it histerical none-the-less. If it's such an issue to do that standing still burnout just get a line lock and no fuse pulling plus it'll be a no brainer push a button and floor. But we are all cheap at heart
I'm sure there's somone on the board that can show him the fuse if that's indeed the case, can slightly recall threads of people trying to break boost but dont recall if they had issues (but wouldnt doubt if they did since this car has countermeasures for a lot of stuff)
I'm sure there's somone on the board that can show him the fuse if that's indeed the case, can slightly recall threads of people trying to break boost but dont recall if they had issues (but wouldnt doubt if they did since this car has countermeasures for a lot of stuff)
Last edited by Juztin; Nov 15, 2005 at 06:34 AM.
Originally Posted by Juztin
I know lol. I just find it histerical none-the-less. If it's such an issue to do that standing still burnout just get a line lock and no fuse pulling plus it'll be a no brainer push a button and floor. But we are all cheap at heart
I'm sure there's somone on the board that can show him the fuse if that's indeed the case, can slightly recall threads of people trying to break boost but dont recall if they had issues (but wouldnt doubt if they did since this car has countermeasures for a lot of stuff)
I'm sure there's somone on the board that can show him the fuse if that's indeed the case, can slightly recall threads of people trying to break boost but dont recall if they had issues (but wouldnt doubt if they did since this car has countermeasures for a lot of stuff)
Originally Posted by davidv
The “fuse pulling” is necessary only with the automatic transmission. The 350Z automatic will reduce power if you attempt to “power brake” or apply power with the brakes ON. The procedure can be found in "drag racing."
You wanna pull the fuse labeled "brake" found in the drivers footwell, there is a kickpanel there. Remember, dont drive around like this, your brake lights will not work, so this is a track, or "event" only mod.....
BTW David, Im glad you dont burnout your "street tires", but to suggest you dont/shouldnt do that with DOT approved tires is not fully correct. Technically my MT E.T. streets are DOT approved and you most certainly have to heat those up to hook, same thing goes for drag radials.
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Originally Posted by Alberto
WRONG. In a 6MT Z with VDC, even if yo turn the VDC OFF, if you were to try powerbraking to either show-off or heat up some slicks, dr's, the ecu will still cut engine power and bog you down.
You wanna pull the fuse labeled "brake" found in the drivers footwell, there is a kickpanel there. Remember, dont drive around like this, your brake lights will not work, so this is a track, or "event" only mod.....
BTW David, Im glad you dont burnout your "street tires", but to suggest you dont/shouldnt do that with DOT approved tires is not fully correct. Technically my MT E.T. streets are DOT approved and you most certainly have to heat those up to hook, same thing goes for drag radials.
You wanna pull the fuse labeled "brake" found in the drivers footwell, there is a kickpanel there. Remember, dont drive around like this, your brake lights will not work, so this is a track, or "event" only mod.....
BTW David, Im glad you dont burnout your "street tires", but to suggest you dont/shouldnt do that with DOT approved tires is not fully correct. Technically my MT E.T. streets are DOT approved and you most certainly have to heat those up to hook, same thing goes for drag radials.
Originally Posted by rednezz
I haven't noticed any problems during my burnouts or doing donuts with the brakes pressed. What does it feel like? My car seems to just light them up without hesistation as long as my VDC is off.
If you try to do a standing burnout its pretty much impossible without pulling this fuse.
Originally Posted by bmxox
If you try to do a standing burnout its pretty much impossible without pulling this fuse.
and with the base models that dont have VDC but have TCS, i believe those can stall burnout without removing a fuse but i may be wrong... but i know my track 6MT cant without taking the fuse out or obviously the mod... i dont wanna burn up my street tires, its a simple 5sec or less burnout to warm tires considering it is getting rather cold this time of year around here...
So i hate to sound like a pissed off russian prost. but all i need to know is the simple process to go through to be able to do a standstill burnout, i dont need this why would you wanna do that to your tires? and all that... i have my reasons
Thanks again ill just get the mod and forgot about telling me the fuse cause idont care anymore...
Originally Posted by Daytona350Texas
but all i need to know is the simple process to go through to be able to do a standstill burnout, i dont need this why would you wanna do that to your tires? and all that... i have my reasons...
Push clutch in, put in 1st gear.
Rev up, and dump the clutch to get the wheels to spin. At this point move your left foot on to the brake quickly. Now modulate gas and brake to control wheel spin, and how forward you move. You can stand still. creep forward whatever. When your done let off gas and push in clutch again. Enjoy the smoke.....
Originally Posted by Alberto
See my post above that explains it. To do a burnout after follow these steps.
Push clutch in, put in 1st gear.
Rev up, and dump the clutch to get the wheels to spin. At this point move your left foot on to the brake quickly. Now modulate gas and brake to control wheel spin, and how forward you move. You can stand still. creep forward whatever. When your done let off gas and push in clutch again. Enjoy the smoke.....
Push clutch in, put in 1st gear.
Rev up, and dump the clutch to get the wheels to spin. At this point move your left foot on to the brake quickly. Now modulate gas and brake to control wheel spin, and how forward you move. You can stand still. creep forward whatever. When your done let off gas and push in clutch again. Enjoy the smoke.....
Originally Posted by Daytona350Texas
im talking about the fuse to remove from the engine bay beneath battery cover that will allow you to press the brake and gas at same time and wont cut the engine off...
it is the fuse in the drivers side kick panel labeled brake. all it does it make the computer think you are not pressing the brakes. all 4 brakes will still work but you wont have abs and brake lights, so dont drive around like this. everything goes back to normal when you put the fuse back and restart the car.
Originally Posted by 002-M-P
So is that to say, it doesn't help to heat up my BFG KDW-2's at the track? I'm going to be in total disbelief if thats actually true.
watch the people that do long burnouts on street tires, they will get worse traction than if they didn't do a burnout at all. plus if you think about times you have done cookies or long power brakes, your tires get slick as hell afterwards till you wear the grease back off.







