Use a Mobil 1. Rocks.

 

Is that the temp sender in the hose? Should it be in oil pan to get real reading?

 

on the black Z why did you remove your undertray?

 

Probably should but this was all I had at the time. I have another pan to go in later with a port for the sending unit, this was just at the drop of a hat.

Bryan

 

I was taking pics and removed for the underbody pics

 

What was the final outcome?

 

I can only assume that since I went with 1/2" hydraulic hose not the normal 3/4" Russell hose that I actually increased my oil pressure. So far it has seen 1 autoX and 6 Road course events as well as several tens of thousands of miles that everything is OK. I still see ~110 PSI ofoil pressure at WOT. Car seems to like it.

 

Cool. Last night I had discussion about this with my buddy. We were discussing different weights of oil also, to lower pressure. I'm new to this portion of mechanics, so am still trying to absorb as much knowledge as possible. I'm hoping I have no negative results after my install.

VO(fingers crossed)

 

I think it sounds pretty reasonable for lower oil temps to increase oil pressure, because if the oil doesn't get as hot, it will have higher viscosity

 

Hence, to lower pressure I'd have to run a lighter weight oil. Correct?

 

Yes, but don't go too light. I tried running Mobile 5-30 and all if did was fill my catch can. I went through two quarts in the week of ZdayZ. My car never uses oil. I'm cheap, so I use castrol 10-30. I'm also NA and just started building my NA motor so I plan to say NA.

Good oil pressure is critical in these cars, you need it for the cams.

 

I live in Houston. The climate is pretty warm daily, except between November and February, where it can drop to about 40 degrees.

I'm curious about your quote, "I tried running Mobile 5-30 and all if did was fill my catch can.". The manual calls for 5w-30. Theoretically shouldn't this be what we're running in the first place, as a standard, then either raise or lower the weight according to the vehicle's needs?

I will also be running NA. No intentions of going FI.

 

If I remember correctly the manual calls for it in the winter. !0-30 for most warm applications and 10-40 when it is exremely hot. I was a dummy and put 5-30 in May, in the souoth. We saw some really hot days at ZdayZ, and my car rarely sat for more than a hour during daylight hours for nine days. I was beating the devil out of it. It was too hot for that weight of oil. My Fault, not Mobil's

 

Oil pan temp is not as relative as to the oil temp re-entering the motor.

 

If that's the case, I've been running the wrong weight from day one... I'll double check tonight. 10-30 would probably be suitable for my climate. It gets hot, but not dessert hot. Plus I don't drive the car hard nor often. Thanks for all the info you've been providing. It is valuable.

 

You know another question I have is regarding the filter size. The ARC kit relocated the filter location. I'm wondering if the oil filter size will differ from the OEM spec. If it does differ, do I just have to pick a new filter size, via trial and error? I doubt it if the ARC instruction manual will give any insight.

 

Dunno bout the relocation kit, I've often thought about doing one for mine, but I'm really trying to keep the weight as low as possible. Don't really want to add 3 to 5 pounds up front. But any relocation kit that I've seen in the past adds some flexibilty as to what you can/want to run. I think the OE threads ar 18x1mm for the oil filter. I use either Nissan OE or Fram filters but I generally change my oil between 1.5k and 2k miles. I change it before eery track event, and usually afterward too. I'm also running ~8 qts of oil in the car, which is another reason I use cheap (relatively) oil.

BTW you are welcome. Glad I could help out.

 

Thanks for the info...