Oil pressure after cooler install
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Originally Posted by johnlotusboy
Is that the temp sender in the hose? Should it be in oil pan to get real reading?
Bryan
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Originally Posted by Lightning Guy
I just installed an oil cooler setup on my NA Z. I used a Mocal SP1F, an Earls oil cooler, 1/2" hydraulic lines w/ 10 -an fittings. I also changed the oil and filter while I was down there and used a Fram Extra guard filter. For what ever reason I have a lot more oil pressure than I did before.
It takes a while to warm up because I went with the SP1F and not the SP1FT but I still am getting 10-20 more PSI than before the mod. I've never heard of an oil cooler raising oil pressure, it usually drops a little.
It this normal for the Mocal or have I screwed up?
Thanx
Bryan
It takes a while to warm up because I went with the SP1F and not the SP1FT but I still am getting 10-20 more PSI than before the mod. I've never heard of an oil cooler raising oil pressure, it usually drops a little.
It this normal for the Mocal or have I screwed up?
Thanx
Bryan
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I can only assume that since I went with 1/2" hydraulic hose not the normal 3/4" Russell hose that I actually increased my oil pressure. So far it has seen 1 autoX and 6 Road course events as well as several tens of thousands of miles that everything is OK. I still see ~110 PSI ofoil pressure at WOT. Car seems to like it.
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Originally Posted by Lightning Guy
I can only assume that since I went with 1/2" hydraulic hose not the normal 3/4" Russell hose that I actually increased my oil pressure. So far it has seen 1 autoX and 6 Road course events as well as several tens of thousands of miles that everything is OK. I still see ~110 PSI ofoil pressure at WOT. Car seems to like it.
VO(fingers crossed)
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
I think it sounds pretty reasonable for lower oil temps to increase oil pressure, because if the oil doesn't get as hot, it will have higher viscosity
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Originally Posted by vo7848
Hence, to lower pressure I'd have to run a lighter weight oil. Correct?
Good oil pressure is critical in these cars, you need it for the cams.
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Originally Posted by Lightning Guy
Yes, but don't go too light. I tried running Mobile 5-30 and all if did was fill my catch can. I went through two quarts in the week of ZdayZ. My car never uses oil. I'm cheap, so I use castrol 10-30. I'm also NA and just started building my NA motor so I plan to say NA.
Good oil pressure is critical in these cars, you need it for the cams.
Good oil pressure is critical in these cars, you need it for the cams.
I'm curious about your quote, "I tried running Mobile 5-30 and all if did was fill my catch can.". The manual calls for 5w-30. Theoretically shouldn't this be what we're running in the first place, as a standard, then either raise or lower the weight according to the vehicle's needs?
I will also be running NA. No intentions of going FI.
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If I remember correctly the manual calls for it in the winter. !0-30 for most warm applications and 10-40 when it is exremely hot. I was a dummy and put 5-30 in May, in the souoth. We saw some really hot days at ZdayZ, and my car rarely sat for more than a hour during daylight hours for nine days. I was beating the devil out of it. It was too hot for that weight of oil. My Fault, not Mobil's
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Originally Posted by johnlotusboy
Is that the temp sender in the hose? Should it be in oil pan to get real reading?
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Originally Posted by Lightning Guy
If I remember correctly the manual calls for it in the winter. !0-30 for most warm applications and 10-40 when it is exremely hot. I was a dummy and put 5-30 in May, in the souoth. We saw some really hot days at ZdayZ, and my car rarely sat for more than a hour during daylight hours for nine days. I was beating the devil out of it. It was too hot for that weight of oil. My Fault, not Mobil's
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You know another question I have is regarding the filter size. The ARC kit relocated the filter location. I'm wondering if the oil filter size will differ from the OEM spec. If it does differ, do I just have to pick a new filter size, via trial and error? I doubt it if the ARC instruction manual will give any insight.
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Originally Posted by vo7848
You know another question I have is regarding the filter size. The ARC kit relocated the filter location. I'm wondering if the oil filter size will differ from the OEM spec. If it does differ, do I just have to pick a new filter size, via trial and error? I doubt it if the ARC instruction manual will give any insight.
Dunno bout the relocation kit, I've often thought about doing one for mine, but I'm really trying to keep the weight as low as possible. Don't really want to add 3 to 5 pounds up front. But any relocation kit that I've seen in the past adds some flexibilty as to what you can/want to run. I think the OE threads ar 18x1mm for the oil filter. I use either Nissan OE or Fram filters but I generally change my oil between 1.5k and 2k miles. I change it before eery track event, and usually afterward too. I'm also running ~8 qts of oil in the car, which is another reason I use cheap (relatively) oil.
BTW you are welcome. Glad I could help out.
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Originally Posted by Lightning Guy
Dunno bout the relocation kit, I've often thought about doing one for mine, but I'm really trying to keep the weight as low as possible. Don't really want to add 3 to 5 pounds up front. But any relocation kit that I've seen in the past adds some flexibilty as to what you can/want to run. I think the OE threads ar 18x1mm for the oil filter. I use either Nissan OE or Fram filters but I generally change my oil between 1.5k and 2k miles. I change it before eery track event, and usually afterward too. I'm also running ~8 qts of oil in the car, which is another reason I use cheap (relatively) oil.
BTW you are welcome. Glad I could help out.
BTW you are welcome. Glad I could help out.
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