I will be replacing my stock clutch in about a week. My guy at the speed shop is suggesting I go with a JWT clutch and flywheel set-up. Also mentioned were the NISMO and Exedy clutches. Any suggestions or feedback??

 

I love my rps setup...very strong and very driveable...the clutch chatter is not as bad as other setups i have heard

 

i read in an older post that a JWT cluth and an Unorthodox Racing Flywheel is the ultimate 2-hit combo.

 

I've got a clutchmaster Stage 4, but if I were to do it again I would go with an ATS Carbon http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-product...s-carbon.shtml

 

Thanks for all the responses. I intended to change my clutch because it seems shot after just 5500 miles!! But I decided to check with a neighborhood mechanic to get an idea of what is involved. He told me I can check to see if the clkucth is gone by doing the following: Start the car and engage the E-brake while holding the brake pedal down. Put the car in first gear and SLOWLY ease in the clutch. If the motor stalls when the clutch is engaged it is still good, however if the engine DOES NOT stall the clucth is hot. Seems I passed this "test". He seems to think I only need and adjustement. What sayst my fellow Z owners??? New clutch...or adjustment?? Need to know ASAP as I am going to a meet in mid may!!

 

I highly doubt you need a clutch. Easiet way to test it is to go on the highway, put the car in 6th and floor it. If the revs jump a bit before you accelerate, your clutch is slipping.

 

I suggest to take your time and search the forum. I heard nothing but good things about the JWT combo. will be installing mine tom.

 

I have the same problem with my 06. My clutch is completely burned up at 13000 miles and i know im not a jackass and i know how to drive a stick. Those bastards at the dealership won't warranty it and want $2100 bucks to replace it. So I myself have decided to go with the JWT setup. The stock flywheel is $1054 what nerve!!

 

My clutch went out after 18,000 miles, so I put in the Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) clutch, pressure plate and lightweight flywheel. It is one hell of a gripper, but it is loud and rattles at idle and low rpms. One thing, your clutch is a warranty item as long as you have 12,000 miles on the car or less. If you feel like it is going to burn out, finish it off before then or you are stuck with paying for a new clutch.

 

I have 550 miles on my z. I was crossing an intersection today from a dead stop and I got on it a little and grabbed 2nd and wham the car tached all the way up and the pedal stayed to the floor. The car slowed quickly and barely made it across the street . It then began to come up and finally returned to normal. There was a heavy smell of deep fried clutch. I had full control back and at the next stop I really left hard and hit 2nd, 3rd and 4th with nada slipage. What the f%&@# why would a brand new clutch mess up like this? will the dealer cover this or do I need to upgrade clutch?

 

I just thought I would throw in another suggestion. I am running a spec clutch in my car. The stage 2+. The pedal is feather light, grabs good, and is a hybrid carbon/kevlar which resists glazing. Not many times do I see a spec recommended for the Z, but I really like mine, and have recommended to many in my area. It is installed on a APS ST setup on a locals car to me, and he loves it. I have a good friend with a mazdaspeed protege that is running a spec 3+ and a friend of mine with an STI with a rotated Perrin GT35 kit is also running a 3+.

They have lightened flywheels to pair with their clutches.

I have heard good things about the JWT, but I think the hybrid spec will outlast it and provide comparable feel.

good luck

 

the jwt combo is awesome... except for the cement mixer sound between 1-1.5 rpms.. ut other ise, i wouldnt trade it

 

just take it to the deler if you olny have 5500mi on it.....

 

I got the exact same thing in mine. If i would do a burnout and try to shift at too high of an rpm the clutch would stick to the floor and you get that strong carbon smell. This first happened to me at 3000 miles and now at 13000 the clutch is completely fried. When i am driving the car nearly redlines before it grabs and that is just driving on the freeway in 5th gear if i step on it. I am beginning to think that Z clutches are just ****

 

K R A P

 

Almost got t boned at an intersection when it stuck..friggin scary.

 

That has happened to me, I'm hoping this isn't going to be a problem..

 

Agreed. I'll be installing my Spec stage 3+ this week. I'll let you guys know how it ends up working out after break-in and again after the GReddy Twin Kit install. However I ran a stage 2 on my 1999 Camaro SS with a lot of bolt ons and it was AWESOME. I also used it on my 2003 GTI 1.8T (stage 3) held all the power I was making (235whp and 275wtq at the time) both previous times the car went to the track pretty often. The Spec clutches are pretty remarkable from previous experience. I'd definitely recommened one.

 

That's strange...I experienced something similiar several times before my clutch was replaced yesterday. What happened was when I engaged the clutch and released it would stay down on the floor for awhile and then release by itself!!! Now the clutch is shot!!! Luckily my dealer COVERED IT UNDER WARRANTY!!