Need a new clutch - what do I choose??
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I've got a clutchmaster Stage 4, but if I were to do it again I would go with an ATS Carbon http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-product...s-carbon.shtml
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Thanks for all the responses. I intended to change my clutch because it seems shot after just 5500 miles!! But I decided to check with a neighborhood mechanic to get an idea of what is involved. He told me I can check to see if the clkucth is gone by doing the following: Start the car and engage the E-brake while holding the brake pedal down. Put the car in first gear and SLOWLY ease in the clutch. If the motor stalls when the clutch is engaged it is still good, however if the engine DOES NOT stall the clucth is hot. Seems I passed this "test". He seems to think I only need and adjustement. What sayst my fellow Z owners??? New clutch...or adjustment?? Need to know ASAP as I am going to a meet in mid may!!
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I highly doubt you need a clutch. Easiet way to test it is to go on the highway, put the car in 6th and floor it. If the revs jump a bit before you accelerate, your clutch is slipping.
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I have the same problem with my 06. My clutch is completely burned up at 13000 miles and i know im not a jackass and i know how to drive a stick. Those bastards at the dealership won't warranty it and want $2100 bucks to replace it. So I myself have decided to go with the JWT setup. The stock flywheel is $1054 what nerve!!
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My clutch went out after 18,000 miles, so I put in the Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) clutch, pressure plate and lightweight flywheel. It is one hell of a gripper, but it is loud and rattles at idle and low rpms. One thing, your clutch is a warranty item as long as you have 12,000 miles on the car or less. If you feel like it is going to burn out, finish it off before then or you are stuck with paying for a new clutch.
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I have 550 miles on my z. I was crossing an intersection today from a dead stop and I got on it a little and grabbed 2nd and wham the car tached all the way up and the pedal stayed to the floor. The car slowed quickly and barely made it across the street . It then began to come up and finally returned to normal. There was a heavy smell of deep fried clutch. I had full control back and at the next stop I really left hard and hit 2nd, 3rd and 4th with nada slipage. What the f%&@# why would a brand new clutch mess up like this? will the dealer cover this or do I need to upgrade clutch?
Last edited by sidewayz2; 04-24-2006 at 10:25 PM.
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I just thought I would throw in another suggestion. I am running a spec clutch in my car. The stage 2+. The pedal is feather light, grabs good, and is a hybrid carbon/kevlar which resists glazing. Not many times do I see a spec recommended for the Z, but I really like mine, and have recommended to many in my area. It is installed on a APS ST setup on a locals car to me, and he loves it. I have a good friend with a mazdaspeed protege that is running a spec 3+ and a friend of mine with an STI with a rotated Perrin GT35 kit is also running a 3+.
They have lightened flywheels to pair with their clutches.
I have heard good things about the JWT, but I think the hybrid spec will outlast it and provide comparable feel.
good luck
They have lightened flywheels to pair with their clutches.
I have heard good things about the JWT, but I think the hybrid spec will outlast it and provide comparable feel.
good luck
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I got the exact same thing in mine. If i would do a burnout and try to shift at too high of an rpm the clutch would stick to the floor and you get that strong carbon smell. This first happened to me at 3000 miles and now at 13000 the clutch is completely fried. When i am driving the car nearly redlines before it grabs and that is just driving on the freeway in 5th gear if i step on it. I am beginning to think that Z clutches are just ****
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Originally Posted by sidewayz2
I have 550 miles on my z. I was crossing an intersection today from a dead stop and I got on it a little and grabbed 2nd and wham the car tached all the way up and the pedal stayed to the floor. The car slowed quickly and barely made it across the street . It then began to come up and finally returned to normal. There was a heavy smell of deep fried clutch. I had full control back and at the next stop I really left hard and hit 2nd, 3rd and 4th with nada slipage. What the f%&@# why would a brand new clutch mess up like this? will the dealer cover this or do I need to upgrade clutch?
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Originally Posted by Zivman
I just thought I would throw in another suggestion. I am running a spec clutch in my car. The stage 2+. The pedal is feather light, grabs good, and is a hybrid carbon/kevlar which resists glazing. Not many times do I see a spec recommended for the Z, but I really like mine, and have recommended to many in my area. It is installed on a APS ST setup on a locals car to me, and he loves it. I have a good friend with a mazdaspeed protege that is running a spec 3+ and a friend of mine with an STI with a rotated Perrin GT35 kit is also running a 3+.
They have lightened flywheels to pair with their clutches.
I have heard good things about the JWT, but I think the hybrid spec will outlast it and provide comparable feel.
good luck
They have lightened flywheels to pair with their clutches.
I have heard good things about the JWT, but I think the hybrid spec will outlast it and provide comparable feel.
good luck
#20
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Originally Posted by sidewayz2
I have 550 miles on my z. I was crossing an intersection today from a dead stop and I got on it a little and grabbed 2nd and wham the car tached all the way up and the pedal stayed to the floor. The car slowed quickly and barely made it across the street . It then began to come up and finally returned to normal. There was a heavy smell of deep fried clutch. I had full control back and at the next stop I really left hard and hit 2nd, 3rd and 4th with nada slipage. What the f%&@# why would a brand new clutch mess up like this? will the dealer cover this or do I need to upgrade clutch?
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon22.gif)
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon38.gif)