Reset ECU With Neg. Battery Terminal and BRAKE PEDAL?
07-24-2006, 02:28 PM
#21
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so let me get this straight.... when do you press the brake.? (anytime in between the 12 hours?????) or it doesnt matter?
Last edited by edwin350z; 07-24-2006 at 02:30 PM.
07-24-2006, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by edwin350z
so let me get this straight.... when do you press the brake.? (anytime in between the 12 hours?????) or it doesnt matter?
07-25-2006, 10:51 AM
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Final answer for "service engine soon". I had it yesterday; I disconnected the negative battery terminal, hit the breaks5 times, and went to bed. This morning the "service engine soon" was gone when I reconnected the battery terminal.
07-25-2006, 11:01 AM
#25
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Thank you!!! BULLS EYE!!! WHOLAH!!!
You hit the nail on the head. This method works every time...
You hit the nail on the head. This method works every time...
Originally Posted by undrgnd
Once and for all: Disconnect the negative battery terminal, then do anything that would draw electrical power, such as stepping on the brakes (brake lights). This will drain any residual voltage from the circuit. My favorite, which ALWAYS works, is to short betwen the lifted negative cable and the positive terminal still on the battery. Make sure that there are no wires on the negative battery terminal or else...
12-05-2006, 08:27 AM
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It was really cold last night and this morning my psi light came on with the little exclamation point light under the gas needle coming on as well. Nissan told me i would have to bring it in to have the code cleared out but i really don't have time to do that. Can i just use this method to clear those codes out?
12-05-2006, 02:04 PM
#27
Originally Posted by danielwebb
It was really cold last night and this morning my psi light came on with the little exclamation point light under the gas needle coming on as well. Nissan told me i would have to bring it in to have the code cleared out but i really don't have time to do that. Can i just use this method to clear those codes out?
12-05-2006, 02:09 PM
#28
For the Technosquare method, can you just do the throttle sensor steps? I read somewhere that you should do that to ensure that the TB opens 100% at WOT. I was just wondering if you had to do all the other steps or if you could just do the throttle steps?
12-05-2006, 02:51 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Steve-O Z33
For the Technosquare method, can you just do the throttle sensor steps? I read somewhere that you should do that to ensure that the TB opens 100% at WOT. I was just wondering if you had to do all the other steps or if you could just do the throttle steps?
Sharif @ forged did a test and proved that the throttle is open 100%, the 85% thing is a myth.
12-05-2006, 03:53 PM
#31
Someone posted the relationship between voltage and throttle position here recently, and the 85% had something to do with the 0-5V range that many aftermarket monitoring systems use. The 350Z ECU sees something like a 0.7-4.3V range for 0-100% throttle position. 4.3V is 85% of 5V, hence the myth.
12-05-2006, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 97supratt
LMAO Nissan techs must have been drunk. The psi light goes away when you fill to proper pressure. Usually it takes about 30 minutes to an hour but it should reset it.
06-26-2017, 05:20 AM
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EPS failure light Honda City iDSi
Sorry to beat what must seem like a "dead horse".
I was reading through some old threads (OMG YES I USED THE SEARCH BUTTON) and I know about the following ways to "reset" the ECU:
My question is: has anyone confirmed that the BRAKE PEDAL method works or does not work? In one thread I was reading, somebody was calling BS on this method but other people insist it works.
My concern is: the d/c negative terminal for 12 hours method takes too long, and the technosquare method (from my understanding, not sure though) only resets CELs but does not "truly" reset the ECU.
Can we get a final answer?
Thanks
Mike
I was reading through some old threads (OMG YES I USED THE SEARCH BUTTON) and I know about the following ways to "reset" the ECU:
- Technosquare method
- D/C Negative Terminal for 12+ hours
- D/C Negative Terminal and Mash on the brake pedal 4-5 times (under debate)
My question is: has anyone confirmed that the BRAKE PEDAL method works or does not work? In one thread I was reading, somebody was calling BS on this method but other people insist it works.
My concern is: the d/c negative terminal for 12 hours method takes too long, and the technosquare method (from my understanding, not sure though) only resets CELs but does not "truly" reset the ECU.
Can we get a final answer?
Thanks
Mike
06-26-2017, 05:53 AM
#34
07-05-2017, 08:04 PM
#35
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Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents
ECM/PCM have an internal control module that "keeps memory alive" or keep alive memory for air/fuel feedback compensation value memory, idle air value, etc
It's a computer just in a car, it has non volatile ram I think but basically everything can be reset a power way and a software way like a Android or a PC. When I did my wire tuck/valve cover gaskets, etc. 24 hrs with the battery disconnected was when I saw a real difference vs the disconnect battery drain power method.
One thing we know is the pedal ecu reset works, so why go through a battery disconnected process and leave battery disconnected for 1-3-24 hrs and guess it reset and not just count for 60 second and press the pedal a couple times. It's like trying to build a supercharger from scratch vs having a ready to go supercharger for free. Why do the extra work.
I've always just done the 60 second pedal reset without issues when I didn't have my OBD2 adapter for engine codes. Do the ecu pedal reset once a month probably.
The best thing to reset most people hardly ever do or talk about it is the air/fuel learning (fuel trims). The accelerator/idle reset are for idle/TB issues. Resetting the air/fuel the fuel trims start back at zero and erases the programmed LTFT. ECU reset doesn't play with afr. I do both methods. ECU reset and the Air Fuel reset.
Why do people call the standard ecu reset the Technosquare method? This method is posted in the 2003+ Infiniti/Nissan FSM. Technosquare just copied and pasted it on their site.
ECM/PCM have an internal control module that "keeps memory alive" or keep alive memory for air/fuel feedback compensation value memory, idle air value, etc
It's a computer just in a car, it has non volatile ram I think but basically everything can be reset a power way and a software way like a Android or a PC. When I did my wire tuck/valve cover gaskets, etc. 24 hrs with the battery disconnected was when I saw a real difference vs the disconnect battery drain power method.
One thing we know is the pedal ecu reset works, so why go through a battery disconnected process and leave battery disconnected for 1-3-24 hrs and guess it reset and not just count for 60 second and press the pedal a couple times. It's like trying to build a supercharger from scratch vs having a ready to go supercharger for free. Why do the extra work.
I've always just done the 60 second pedal reset without issues when I didn't have my OBD2 adapter for engine codes. Do the ecu pedal reset once a month probably.
The best thing to reset most people hardly ever do or talk about it is the air/fuel learning (fuel trims). The accelerator/idle reset are for idle/TB issues. Resetting the air/fuel the fuel trims start back at zero and erases the programmed LTFT. ECU reset doesn't play with afr. I do both methods. ECU reset and the Air Fuel reset.
Why do people call the standard ecu reset the Technosquare method? This method is posted in the 2003+ Infiniti/Nissan FSM. Technosquare just copied and pasted it on their site.
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