so let me get this straight.... when do you press the brake.? (anytime in between the 12 hours?????) or it doesnt matter?

 

Pump it several times immediately after removing the negative batt lead. Reconnect immediately after pumping brake pedal. 12 hours are unnecessary using this method. I am certain this works. I have yet to throw a CEL or SES, so I haven't cleared a code with it, but I did this on a dyno and had a pretty drastic change afterward. Chart was posted here in another thread about the MRev2 and revups. The post-pump run jumps out at you on the chart.

 

yep disconnect negative terminal and pump brake then connect again takes a whole minute if that and it'll reset

 

Final answer for "service engine soon". I had it yesterday; I disconnected the negative battery terminal, hit the breaks5 times, and went to bed. This morning the "service engine soon" was gone when I reconnected the battery terminal.

 

It was really cold last night and this morning my psi light came on with the little exclamation point light under the gas needle coming on as well. Nissan told me i would have to bring it in to have the code cleared out but i really don't have time to do that. Can i just use this method to clear those codes out?

 

LMAO Nissan techs must have been drunk. The psi light goes away when you fill to proper pressure. Usually it takes about 30 minutes to an hour but it should reset it.

 

For the Technosquare method, can you just do the throttle sensor steps? I read somewhere that you should do that to ensure that the TB opens 100% at WOT. I was just wondering if you had to do all the other steps or if you could just do the throttle steps?

 

Sharif @ forged did a test and proved that the throttle is open 100%, the 85% thing is a myth.

 

That's cool. So he tested a couple cars?

 

Someone posted the relationship between voltage and throttle position here recently, and the 85% had something to do with the 0-5V range that many aftermarket monitoring systems use. The 350Z ECU sees something like a 0.7-4.3V range for 0-100% throttle position. 4.3V is 85% of 5V, hence the myth.

 

After it came on I drove on the interstate for about an hour and a half as the tires heated up and so did the outside temperature. The pressure went back to what it is normally at (about 33-34 all around) and the light never went off.

 

This method can fix EPS error or not? I have EPS light I'm Honda city idsi 2004. Thanks

 

https://honda-tech.com/

 

Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents

ECM/PCM have an internal control module that "keeps memory alive" or keep alive memory for air/fuel feedback compensation value memory, idle air value, etc

It's a computer just in a car, it has non volatile ram I think but basically everything can be reset a power way and a software way like a Android or a PC. When I did my wire tuck/valve cover gaskets, etc. 24 hrs with the battery disconnected was when I saw a real difference vs the disconnect battery drain power method.

One thing we know is the pedal ecu reset works, so why go through a battery disconnected process and leave battery disconnected for 1-3-24 hrs and guess it reset and not just count for 60 second and press the pedal a couple times. It's like trying to build a supercharger from scratch vs having a ready to go supercharger for free. Why do the extra work.

I've always just done the 60 second pedal reset without issues when I didn't have my OBD2 adapter for engine codes. Do the ecu pedal reset once a month probably.

The best thing to reset most people hardly ever do or talk about it is the air/fuel learning (fuel trims). The accelerator/idle reset are for idle/TB issues. Resetting the air/fuel the fuel trims start back at zero and erases the programmed LTFT. ECU reset doesn't play with afr. I do both methods. ECU reset and the Air Fuel reset.

Why do people call the standard ecu reset the Technosquare method? This method is posted in the 2003+ Infiniti/Nissan FSM. Technosquare just copied and pasted it on their site.