Need Advice...Oil Filter
#23
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Mobil 1 has been shown to be one of the best, if not THE best, oil filter. There are others that will do just fine, but if you want the best, Mobil 1. Pics and analyses below. WARNING: A lot of reading.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Last edited by undrgnd; 10-03-2006 at 04:35 PM.
#24
Dr. Wired
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Originally Posted by undrgnd
Mobil 1 has been shown to be one of the best, if not THE best, oil filter. There are others that will do just fine, but if you want the best, Mobil 1. Pics and analyses below. WARNING: A lot of reading.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
I hope K&N turns out to be as good as Mobil1!
#25
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Bob is the oil guy is the premier site for oil analysis and discussion along with filter information. Check them out.
K&Ns aren't the best filtering but they flow significantly more than many other filers and still filter very well.
K&Ns aren't the best filtering but they flow significantly more than many other filers and still filter very well.
#27
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I use Frams in the Mud-Mobile. 440,000 miles and counting.
#28
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The Purolator Pure One and the Mobil 1 are two of the top filters in this study.....
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
I personally use Purolator Pure One. Best filter for the price.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
I personally use Purolator Pure One. Best filter for the price.
Last edited by StreetOC192; 10-04-2006 at 04:31 PM.
#29
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wix makes a great filter, it has a reverse drain bolt so that the clean oil doesnt flow through the dirt. u can get them as a napa gold, if napa is in ur area or blue something, i dont remember.
#35
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I guess I'll throw my opinion in on this too. I don't like the PureOne simply because it has been shown to be too restrictive to oil flow, but it filters like a champ. I'm sure it's good to use, but I'm not comfortable with how restrictive it is. The M1/K&N are great filters, but expensive as all hell. I'd rather put the money into a good oil rather than the filter, but if you can do both then more power to ya. I mostly use the stock Nissan filter. I figure if 90% of the SE-R cup guys use it on their race cars (it's the same filter as the SR20 uses) then it has to hold up just fine. As far as Fram goes, I think that's just pure crap. I used to use it on my old International, and had a horrible valve tap at start-up when using the Fram. As soon as I changed filters to an AC Delco, it stopped. Switched back and it came back. I found out the Fram uses a cheap cardboard anti-drainback valve that disintigrated on me after a few starts, and then I was starting the engine with the head dry. never happened on any other filter that used a rubber or silicone valve.
Will
Will
#36
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I found this bit of info during my search if anyone is interested...
K&N oil filter
HP-1008 Product Specifications
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 2.91 in (74 mm)
Outside Diameter: 2.656 in (67 mm)
PSI Relief Valve: 11-17
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Weight: 0.5 lb (0.2 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Height: 2.91 in (74 mm)
-------------------------------------------
Other oil filter/brands
Manufacturer Part Number
AC PF1237
FRAM PH5541
FRAM PH6607
MOTORCRAFT FL816
PURO L14612
WIX 51365
K&N oil filter
HP-1008 Product Specifications
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 2.91 in (74 mm)
Outside Diameter: 2.656 in (67 mm)
PSI Relief Valve: 11-17
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Weight: 0.5 lb (0.2 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Height: 2.91 in (74 mm)
-------------------------------------------
Other oil filter/brands
Manufacturer Part Number
AC PF1237
FRAM PH5541
FRAM PH6607
MOTORCRAFT FL816
PURO L14612
WIX 51365
#37
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Originally Posted by Resolute
I guess I'll throw my opinion in on this too. I don't like the PureOne simply because it has been shown to be too restrictive to oil flow, but it filters like a champ. I'm sure it's good to use, but I'm not comfortable with how restrictive it is. The M1/K&N are great filters, but expensive as all hell. I'd rather put the money into a good oil rather than the filter, but if you can do both then more power to ya. I mostly use the stock Nissan filter. I figure if 90% of the SE-R cup guys use it on their race cars (it's the same filter as the SR20 uses) then it has to hold up just fine. As far as Fram goes, I think that's just pure crap. I used to use it on my old International, and had a horrible valve tap at start-up when using the Fram. As soon as I changed filters to an AC Delco, it stopped. Switched back and it came back. I found out the Fram uses a cheap cardboard anti-drainback valve that disintigrated on me after a few starts, and then I was starting the engine with the head dry. never happened on any other filter that used a rubber or silicone valve.
Will
Will
This one applies equally to Sedans and Coupes, but I'm putting it here since the Coupe section has the most traffic.
At the dealer recently, I got the usual song-and-dance about how I should really be using the Nissan OEM oil filter. I've been experimenting, using Mobil-1 and K&N. Both are made by the same mfr (Champion Labs), but their respective filtration media have different emphasis, max filtering for the M1, and best flow for the K&N.
For those of you who've dug into such things, you probably know that Fram has the worst reputation amongst widely available oil filters. They tend to have flimsy cans and, most disturbingly, their filter elements are made with weak cardboard end caps that can collapse or fragment in hot oil. Good filters, like M1 and K&N are made with heavy metal "skeletons" that will neither collapse nor break down in hot oil.
By the way, I'm not conjecturing about all this, I've dissected a growing number of different filters (eight now) to see for myself. With a $20 pipe cutter, it's ridiculously easy to take even a hefty-looking K&N apart in 30 seconds.
Well, egged on by the dealer's scolding for non-use of OEM parts, I bought myself a 65F00, the stock-size (thimble) filter specified for the G35's VQ35 engine, and just cut it up. Imagine my shock and disappointment when I cut this thing open and found that it is little more than a Fram hiding in white paint!!! I will give them a little credit in that the bypass valve is metal, where Fram's is plastic, but otherwise, it's a copy of a Fram.
I've read some posts on the internet defending Fram. Of course, it's a free country and you can use whatever you want. If, against all odds, I decided I wanted this sort of filter, I'd go pay $2.50 for a "real" Fram not $10 at the dealer for one that's painted white.
See for yourself:
Here's the can of the just-cut filter:
Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:
Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:
And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:
You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.
Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)
I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.
My apologies for the length -- I get a little over-excited about these maintenance "issues," especially when I smell a rip off.
At the dealer recently, I got the usual song-and-dance about how I should really be using the Nissan OEM oil filter. I've been experimenting, using Mobil-1 and K&N. Both are made by the same mfr (Champion Labs), but their respective filtration media have different emphasis, max filtering for the M1, and best flow for the K&N.
For those of you who've dug into such things, you probably know that Fram has the worst reputation amongst widely available oil filters. They tend to have flimsy cans and, most disturbingly, their filter elements are made with weak cardboard end caps that can collapse or fragment in hot oil. Good filters, like M1 and K&N are made with heavy metal "skeletons" that will neither collapse nor break down in hot oil.
By the way, I'm not conjecturing about all this, I've dissected a growing number of different filters (eight now) to see for myself. With a $20 pipe cutter, it's ridiculously easy to take even a hefty-looking K&N apart in 30 seconds.
Well, egged on by the dealer's scolding for non-use of OEM parts, I bought myself a 65F00, the stock-size (thimble) filter specified for the G35's VQ35 engine, and just cut it up. Imagine my shock and disappointment when I cut this thing open and found that it is little more than a Fram hiding in white paint!!! I will give them a little credit in that the bypass valve is metal, where Fram's is plastic, but otherwise, it's a copy of a Fram.
I've read some posts on the internet defending Fram. Of course, it's a free country and you can use whatever you want. If, against all odds, I decided I wanted this sort of filter, I'd go pay $2.50 for a "real" Fram not $10 at the dealer for one that's painted white.
See for yourself:
Here's the can of the just-cut filter:
Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:
Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:
And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:
You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.
Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)
I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.
My apologies for the length -- I get a little over-excited about these maintenance "issues," especially when I smell a rip off.
#38
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^^ From my recent search today, that would be correct the model illustrated above is the cheap OEM version. The good one would be the model 9E000.
#39
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Good find. The bit about crushing the filter media with his hands is unapplicable to the use of the filter, but the rest is good. I always wanted to cut open the filter, and just never did. The Fram's cardboard end caps are a little disturbing, but it was the crappy ADBV that caused issues with my old IH 345 engine. The Nissan oil filter seems to have a better anti-drain back valve, but cardboard endcaps just seems wrong on an engine that seems fairly high oil pressures- so I get his point on crushing them with his hands.
I thought Denso made the OEM filters?
To be fair, I have been using the longer M1 filter for the last two changes and noticed they changed their design of the bypass by ditching the metal spring for plastic. The K&N still uses the metal spring, but I don't think it makes a difference.
Will
I thought Denso made the OEM filters?
To be fair, I have been using the longer M1 filter for the last two changes and noticed they changed their design of the bypass by ditching the metal spring for plastic. The K&N still uses the metal spring, but I don't think it makes a difference.
Will
#40
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Originally Posted by Resolute
Good find. The bit about crushing the filter media with his hands is unapplicable to the use of the filter, but the rest is good. I always wanted to cut open the filter, and just never did. The Fram's cardboard end caps are a little disturbing, but it was the crappy ADBV that caused issues with my old IH 345 engine. The Nissan oil filter seems to have a better anti-drain back valve, but cardboard endcaps just seems wrong on an engine that seems fairly high oil pressures- so I get his point on crushing them with his hands.
I thought Denso made the OEM filters?
To be fair, I have been using the longer M1 filter for the last two changes and noticed they changed their design of the bypass by ditching the metal spring for plastic. The K&N still uses the metal spring, but I don't think it makes a difference.
Will
I thought Denso made the OEM filters?
To be fair, I have been using the longer M1 filter for the last two changes and noticed they changed their design of the bypass by ditching the metal spring for plastic. The K&N still uses the metal spring, but I don't think it makes a difference.
Will