NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Hey Guys and Gals,

I just installed my B&M short throw shifter. My question is... is it always hard to get into gear. Before with the stock shifter I never really had to press the clutch all the way in. I guess its hard to explain.

No more quick shifting. I guess

Thanks everybody

Chris

97supratt

iTrader: (61)

Stock shifter FTW!

I've heard a lot of horror stories about B&M with our transmissions. If I were to buy a short shifter for the Z, I would get it from 350evo. I haven't heard any complaints from their shifters. I'm not even sure if they still sell it, might want to ask around.

Good luck.

Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

u need to re-align the brass plate. try that. and check the bolts.

clutch pressing should be independent of what shifter you use..

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Ok so it should be a little adjustment.

Ill see what I can do. Thanks Cheston. Thanks 97supra.

VIZAGE

iTrader: (20)

+1

gersteinp

iTrader: (1)

-1

I've had my B&M shifter for over a year with nothing but good things to say about it. Proper install is everything, however--just like any mod.

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Thats what I am thinking and hoping. just a minor adjustment.

Thanks again guys.

nosurf2day

iTrader: (28)

what is the percentage of throw reduction for a b&M I am thinking of buying the rouge engenering one but its throw is only reduced by 20%. Is the B&M more?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

There is a thread titled The worst mods that I installed. Short shifters are named frequently.

gersteinp

iTrader: (1)

Throw reduction is 33%. And, contrary to all the naysayers, the B&M was one of the best mods I've ever done.

Gary King

iTrader: (19)

I like my B&M. Running it with a shorter shift **** too, take it to the track, shift fast, no problem. Mine doesn't make much noise either. I think allot or the complaints about the B&M stem from poor installs.

gersteinp

iTrader: (1)

I think that's exactly true. I did a lot of experimentation with the install until I found a method that eliminates about 90% of the rattle and tightens the whole apparatus up--by winding one or two layers of tightly stretched electrical tape around the black metal pivot housing before lubing the whole thing and installing it into the transmission housing cup. This takes out any slop in the shifting mechanism and stops vibration of metal on metal. Over a year later, everything is still perfect. I told B&M about this and recommended they clad the pivot in Delrin or something similar. In any event, this is such a cheap and simple fix that the Delrin isn't really necessary.

Darth Zader

iTrader: (3)

Where were you hearing the sound? I've got a wicked little rattle at high RPMs inside the shift ****? Did securing the housing a little better reduce vibration to the ****? Anyone try using teflon tape or loctite on the threading? Other than that, I'd have to say that the short throw is great.

gersteinp

iTrader: (1)

Regarding the shift ****, remove the chamfered silver spacer before you reinstall the ****. In my case, even though I thought it was fully tight, I was able to get another full turn out of the ****. Avoid overtorquing the shaft by holding it, under the fascia plate, with a channel locks. Use red LocTite on the threads, not too much, or the **** won't stay in place. Don't use teflon.

Before you replace the ****, go for a drive with it off and gun the car in several gears to be sure there isn't some other source of rattle (you may get some mild rattle in the shaft under hard revs over 3K--eliminated by putting down-pressure on the end of the shaft. Too much rattle and you may not have wrapped the pivot sufficiently with electrical tape. Hope this helps.

Darth Zader

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, it is definitely in the ****. I verified this the other night by driving with it off. I've tried with and without the spacer. I've tightened the hell out of it, as well as fairly loose. So far the spacer has pushed the rattle up into the higher RPMs where it was worse sooner without it. I've widened the hole in the aluminum where the housing is held in place above the linkage. What is the reasoning around holding the shaft and torque?

Thanks.

gersteinp

iTrader: (1)

There's a service bulletin about needing to hold the shaft to prevent linkage damage if you're twisting hard on the **** either off or on.

I have no idea what you mean by widening the aluminum (where?) or why you needed to do this.

Darth Zader

iTrader: (3)

Ah, of course.

Another forum has sticky for a fix dealing with rattles. If the link comes through: http://www2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=150410

Darth Zader

iTrader: (3)

Well...this didnt' work. It didn't even affect the noise at all. I was looking closely at the shifter and I noticed that the ball the shifter pivots with is a separate piece of metal from the actual shaft and that the shaft can slide about a millimeter up and down through this ball. I'm curious if this is the vibration and why the hell B&M kept the ball separate from the shaft. I'm not sure if I can slip an additional c-clip between the ball and the stop but I need to do something. This thing is driving me insane (in spite of the fact that I only hear it at above 4000 RPMs). Actually, with two wraps of electrical tape and lots of lube I have managed to get my shifter stuck with some effort to push it down for reverse. I guess two wraps was too close or perhaps it didn't need it top to bottom.

Anyway, if anyone else has any input, please chime in.

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

well i think the b&m might be causing my third gear grind.(possible??) I am thinking of switching back to stock.

And then take it to the dealer to get it checked.