Best synthetic oil type...
#43
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I've used RP in my Datsun since the motor was built since its what my machinist recommended. I've also run Motul before in other cars, and have been happy.
I run Valvoline Synthetic in the 350Z and it's worked great - 5w30 year round (we go from sub freezing to 90+ here) - never had an issue and to this day by car does not use oil between changes.
The only oil I've had issues with was Mobil 1 - it just seems alot thinner than other equivalent oils (their 5w30 pours out like Poland Spring!). The only motor I ever lost went on Mobil 1 so for pure luck reasons, I don't use it any longer.
Honestly though, in all liklihood it makes zero difference which you use - we're not building F1 motors. Any decent brand oil and decent brand filter with regular changes will work just fine.
I run Valvoline Synthetic in the 350Z and it's worked great - 5w30 year round (we go from sub freezing to 90+ here) - never had an issue and to this day by car does not use oil between changes.
The only oil I've had issues with was Mobil 1 - it just seems alot thinner than other equivalent oils (their 5w30 pours out like Poland Spring!). The only motor I ever lost went on Mobil 1 so for pure luck reasons, I don't use it any longer.
Honestly though, in all liklihood it makes zero difference which you use - we're not building F1 motors. Any decent brand oil and decent brand filter with regular changes will work just fine.
#44
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best oil out there
hey whats up i live in FL and i put amsoil in my z its 00-30 and it replaces 5-30 and 10-30 also with the amsoil oil filter which is guarenteed for 30 k miles. this is the best oil on the market as of now, and its well worth it. i notice a 5 mpg + gain from the oil as well.
#45
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Ok.... lets do an oil smackdown. This is beter than that etc. B*ll Sh*t !!!
Synthetic oil.......
First.... NEW TERMS!
The term FULL SYNTHETIC means poopy! Don't ever use the term full synthetic again and ignore it whe nyou see it on bottles of your favorite synthetic oil. Synthetics can be broken down into 3 categories. The first being type III or hydrocracked sysnthetic oil which refers to how the dinosaur oil is processsed. (Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Penzoil) Type III is a refined dinosaur oil pumped from the ground. The processing gives the oil stability from having molecules of same shape, size and molecular structure of a beneficial nature to the reduction of temperature and viscosity breakdown. When heated this oil will form carbon and sludge.
The next type is type IV (Most but not all Amsoils, Mobil 1, some Motul.) Type IV is referd to as POA. POA base stocks are largely refined from natural gas (still hydrocarbon dino based). When heated this oil will form carbon and sludge. It resists the effects and heat and viscosity breakdown even better than Type III.
Type V is known as an ester based oil and is synthesized from gas (vapor) usually from a vegetable source. Ester based oils do not produce carbon when they are heated and resist heat and viscosity breakdown extremely well. This is the oil used in every turbine jet engine in existance. Some Motuls (300V series) use this technology. Ester based synthetics are very expensive but give the ultimate protections. Esther based oils vaporize at much higher temperatures than type IV oils. Esters are polar in nature and are attracted to the metal in your engine so no more cold start up problems. Esters usually have extremely high oil service intervals. 25,000 mi is not uncommon which can make up for their high costs.
And last some manufacturers mix type IV and V together in some of their product line. Amsoil being one of those manufacturers. The blend is usually predominently type IV. While it is a blend it is still a full synthetic since the only things being blended are the base stocks both being considered synthetic.
There you have it in a nutshell. Best oil on the market? A pure ester based synthetic oil like Motul 300V. Does eveyone need that level of protection? No Way. The next best is type IV base stock oils containing a small percentage of type V base stock like some Amsoil products or Mobil 1 and some Motul products. Mobil 1 being the most readully available and cheapest. I believe Royal Purple and Redline fall into this class as well. Penzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Quaker State synthetics are all type III refined dyno oils. Are they better than non sythesized dyno oils? Sure! But they still contain undesireable contaminants such as sulphur that type IV or V do not have.
JET
Synthetic oil.......
First.... NEW TERMS!
The term FULL SYNTHETIC means poopy! Don't ever use the term full synthetic again and ignore it whe nyou see it on bottles of your favorite synthetic oil. Synthetics can be broken down into 3 categories. The first being type III or hydrocracked sysnthetic oil which refers to how the dinosaur oil is processsed. (Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Penzoil) Type III is a refined dinosaur oil pumped from the ground. The processing gives the oil stability from having molecules of same shape, size and molecular structure of a beneficial nature to the reduction of temperature and viscosity breakdown. When heated this oil will form carbon and sludge.
The next type is type IV (Most but not all Amsoils, Mobil 1, some Motul.) Type IV is referd to as POA. POA base stocks are largely refined from natural gas (still hydrocarbon dino based). When heated this oil will form carbon and sludge. It resists the effects and heat and viscosity breakdown even better than Type III.
Type V is known as an ester based oil and is synthesized from gas (vapor) usually from a vegetable source. Ester based oils do not produce carbon when they are heated and resist heat and viscosity breakdown extremely well. This is the oil used in every turbine jet engine in existance. Some Motuls (300V series) use this technology. Ester based synthetics are very expensive but give the ultimate protections. Esther based oils vaporize at much higher temperatures than type IV oils. Esters are polar in nature and are attracted to the metal in your engine so no more cold start up problems. Esters usually have extremely high oil service intervals. 25,000 mi is not uncommon which can make up for their high costs.
And last some manufacturers mix type IV and V together in some of their product line. Amsoil being one of those manufacturers. The blend is usually predominently type IV. While it is a blend it is still a full synthetic since the only things being blended are the base stocks both being considered synthetic.
There you have it in a nutshell. Best oil on the market? A pure ester based synthetic oil like Motul 300V. Does eveyone need that level of protection? No Way. The next best is type IV base stock oils containing a small percentage of type V base stock like some Amsoil products or Mobil 1 and some Motul products. Mobil 1 being the most readully available and cheapest. I believe Royal Purple and Redline fall into this class as well. Penzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Quaker State synthetics are all type III refined dyno oils. Are they better than non sythesized dyno oils? Sure! But they still contain undesireable contaminants such as sulphur that type IV or V do not have.
JET
Last edited by JETPILOT; 10-27-2006 at 12:37 AM.
#47
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is it normal for an FI motor to experience oil consumpion. and also, what kind of oil do you guys think i should be running? i have the APS TT kit on my car. any suggestions? i've heard valvoline 10w30 is good?
#49
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This is a press relese from Amsoil dated April 25th 2005.....
Group IV oils are the start of the “true synthetic” oils. According to the API this Group is reserved only for POA based oils. This base has a Viscosity Index of 140+ to begin with and don’t have any impurities like the previous mentioned groups are allowed. These are oils that are actually man-made, NOT from crude oil. Most all of the Amsoil fluids fall into this class.
The rest are type III. (I'm adding this. Not part of press relese).
Sorry.... Amsoil is no better than Mobil 1 as far as synthetic base stock.
Just run Motul 300V!!!! You can't buy a better oil!!!
JET
Group IV oils are the start of the “true synthetic” oils. According to the API this Group is reserved only for POA based oils. This base has a Viscosity Index of 140+ to begin with and don’t have any impurities like the previous mentioned groups are allowed. These are oils that are actually man-made, NOT from crude oil. Most all of the Amsoil fluids fall into this class.
The rest are type III. (I'm adding this. Not part of press relese).
Sorry.... Amsoil is no better than Mobil 1 as far as synthetic base stock.
Just run Motul 300V!!!! You can't buy a better oil!!!
JET
#52
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Originally Posted by TurboSteve
anyone use jiffy lube? Thinking about tryin em out instead of the usual dealership since I dont have the means to change my own oil where I live...
never went back.
#54
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Originally Posted by nothingremains
any certain type of mobil 1 oil filter i should get?
It is longer than the suggested M1-108, but fits perfectly and allows for more capacity.
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Originally Posted by Zmonster24
Doesn't the manual recommend 5W-30? Why did some people decide to go to 10W-30? I have an 06, and my oil burns pretty damn quick, would changing help at all?
#60
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Originally Posted by taurran
I use 10w-30 because it's typically a warmer climate here in tampa. 5w-30 would be ok too, but I prefer the slightly higher viscosity. In the winter time 5w-30 might be better (although I doubt you will really notice a difference).
+1 unless you're living in extreme weather conditions, 5W versus 10W is about the same in every respect