Motul Diff oil with Nismo diff review inside
#61
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Motul makes two type of synthetic oil. The 8100 is structurally simliar to a typical Redline or Royal Purple. It is a very high quality oil.
Then we have 300V, which is a 100% ester oil, and is the ultimate racing oil. It is structurally superior to just about any oil on the market. In terms of power, I have never believed manufacturers claims of additional power. Reason being, is attempting to measure a handful of whp differences between oil is far too subjective. Something as simple as heat soak, or tire deformation, could be the cause of the gain or loss, that the manufacturer claims.
I have no doubt that Motul makes the finest oils on the market, but I am not willing to say they will generate more power. But it would not suprise me to see a small power increase.
Then we have 300V, which is a 100% ester oil, and is the ultimate racing oil. It is structurally superior to just about any oil on the market. In terms of power, I have never believed manufacturers claims of additional power. Reason being, is attempting to measure a handful of whp differences between oil is far too subjective. Something as simple as heat soak, or tire deformation, could be the cause of the gain or loss, that the manufacturer claims.
I have no doubt that Motul makes the finest oils on the market, but I am not willing to say they will generate more power. But it would not suprise me to see a small power increase.
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
While I love Motul diff oil I wouldn't be quick to say Motul engine oil is the premier engine oil on the market. I won't say its not good but I haven't done any analysis to say that it is either. I did analyze Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and Turbonetics TS-1 oil personally and found the Turbonetics TS-1 to be superior to the other two in every way. Since those results I haven't run anything but that in my car. My analysis ended at 33k miles on the odo. I'm well over 50k now with no issues so suffice to say I'm pretty happy with it.
do you want type of base stock the TS-1 oil uses?
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
MIA, if you are willing to give it a try....I will send you 6qts of 300v for testing purposes at no charge....provided you post the results from your oil analysis report.
do you want type of base stock the TS-1 oil uses?
do you want type of base stock the TS-1 oil uses?
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Sharif I would be game for that. Let me send off my current oil after my next change so I have a current oil report for it. I have another ~1000 miles to go for that change. That will give me a current reading for the oil. When thats done if you are still game I will change the oil with the Motul you send and at the next change run the same report and do a side by side of both percieved response of the oil and the analysis as well. Would that be ok with you?
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
sounds good...just hit me up, when you are 10 days away from your oil change interval.
#68
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Well, I tried your miracle drug (90PA) on my Nismo LSD. It still pops. It might be smoother during engagement though, that's what I'm thinking on initial feel. I didn't get as good of a result as MIAPLAYA.
Hopefully the oil doesn't burn out as quick as Redline. No biggie I guess, but at least I know what to do now when my ABS comes on. There's a little 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor mounting bracket against the pumpkin. It came loose (probably from 10,000 miles of jolting). All I have to do is tighten that every time my ABS acts up and I'll be ok. I'm thinking about spending some money again and getting a Quaife soon.
Hopefully the oil doesn't burn out as quick as Redline. No biggie I guess, but at least I know what to do now when my ABS comes on. There's a little 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor mounting bracket against the pumpkin. It came loose (probably from 10,000 miles of jolting). All I have to do is tighten that every time my ABS acts up and I'll be ok. I'm thinking about spending some money again and getting a Quaife soon.
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I got my cure all snake oil, as well.....Thanks. Have not had the opportunity to replace my axle lub, yet, too busy. Anyway, since I am sending it back to Vinny soon, I shall ask him to replace with the 90P then.
Where do you think the popping sound is originating from? What did you mean by your, "ABS acts up?"
In my case, I constantly need to remember to turn off my the VDC, as it switches to 'fail-safe' mode whenever I boost. I wish I could have the sensors calibrated to tolerate wheel spin & respond to the mass air sensor more actuarately. Can't wait to have the EMS box replaced.
G
______
Originally Posted by mavtais
Well, I tried your miracle drug (90PA) on my Nismo LSD. It still pops. It might be smoother during engagement though, that's what I'm thinking on initial feel. I didn't get as good of a result as MIAPLAYA.
Hopefully the oil doesn't burn out as quick as Redline. No biggie I guess, but at least I know what to do now when my ABS comes on. There's a little 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor mounting bracket against the pumpkin. It came loose (probably from 10,000 miles of jolting). All I have to do is tighten that every time my ABS acts up and I'll be ok. I'm thinking about spending some money again and getting a Quaife soon.
Hopefully the oil doesn't burn out as quick as Redline. No biggie I guess, but at least I know what to do now when my ABS comes on. There's a little 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor mounting bracket against the pumpkin. It came loose (probably from 10,000 miles of jolting). All I have to do is tighten that every time my ABS acts up and I'll be ok. I'm thinking about spending some money again and getting a Quaife soon.
In my case, I constantly need to remember to turn off my the VDC, as it switches to 'fail-safe' mode whenever I boost. I wish I could have the sensors calibrated to tolerate wheel spin & respond to the mass air sensor more actuarately. Can't wait to have the EMS box replaced.
G
______
#70
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Originally Posted by 350Zzzz
Where do you think the popping sound is originating from? What did you mean by your, "ABS acts up?"
In my case, I constantly need to remember to turn off my the VDC, as it switches to 'fail-safe' mode whenever I boost. I wish I could have the sensors calibrated to tolerate wheel spin & respond to the mass air sensor more actuarately. Can't wait to have the EMS box replaced.
G
______
In my case, I constantly need to remember to turn off my the VDC, as it switches to 'fail-safe' mode whenever I boost. I wish I could have the sensors calibrated to tolerate wheel spin & respond to the mass air sensor more actuarately. Can't wait to have the EMS box replaced.
G
______
The sensors are pretty easy to get to. Just get under the rear end of the car and look at the differential pumkin. Where the axles come out from the pumpkin, look at the rear side and you'll see two black sensors, the wires go up towards the chassis.
On a happier note, I just drove it again during my lunch hour. It really does seem to engage much smoother. If I feather the throttle, I can control the engagement of the clutches (applied torque) and there is no noise. Before Motul, feathering of the throttle was only good for the first 1000 miles. I'll keep you all posted on how many miles before it burns out (hopefully never).
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Sorry to hear it didn't work as well for you. I'm at about 3,000 miles so far on mine and its going strong... I will say the very first engagement was a little rough but every one after that has been butter. Maybe your diff really is broken? Are you running R compound tires by any chance? I haven't tried mounting R compound since I put this in. Unfortunately with work and other stuff I haven't had any time to track the car.
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Originally Posted by mavtais
Well, I tried your miracle drug (90PA) on my Nismo LSD. It still pops. It might be smoother during engagement though, that's what I'm thinking on initial feel. I didn't get as good of a result as MIAPLAYA.
Hopefully the oil doesn't burn out as quick as Redline. No biggie I guess, but at least I know what to do now when my ABS comes on. There's a little 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor mounting bracket against the pumpkin. It came loose (probably from 10,000 miles of jolting). All I have to do is tighten that every time my ABS acts up and I'll be ok. I'm thinking about spending some money again and getting a Quaife soon.
Hopefully the oil doesn't burn out as quick as Redline. No biggie I guess, but at least I know what to do now when my ABS comes on. There's a little 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor mounting bracket against the pumpkin. It came loose (probably from 10,000 miles of jolting). All I have to do is tighten that every time my ABS acts up and I'll be ok. I'm thinking about spending some money again and getting a Quaife soon.
#73
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Sorry to hear it didn't work as well for you. I'm at about 3,000 miles so far on mine and its going strong... I will say the very first engagement was a little rough but every one after that has been butter. Maybe your diff really is broken? Are you running R compound tires by any chance? I haven't tried mounting R compound since I put this in. Unfortunately with work and other stuff I haven't had any time to track the car.
Originally Posted by fpacquing
GO TO AUTOZONE AND GET SOME POSI-TRAC LIMITED SLIP GEAR OIL AND MIX IT WITH 90PA.DRIVES ALMOST LIKE STOCK.ENJOY
60+ miles now.
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My Nismo Lsd Was Also Popping Alone With Just The Motul 90pa.went To Autozone And Got A Tube Of Trans-x Posi-trac Limited Slip Additive And Waalaa. Very Smooth.dont Forget To Use Entire Contents Of Additive, I Have 600 Miles So Far And No Broken Diff. Noise.
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Originally Posted by mavtais
That's comforting to hear that it's still holding up after 3000. I have GY Eagle F1 GS-D3's (on oem 17's, matching sizes). I also used the Kaaz break-in procedure (figure 8's for 00:30:00 and then change the oil) when I got it. I don't think it's broken though, because I can feel it working like a muf*ka. For some reason, it responds really well to torque applied. I was told by Local dealership that the setting was at the lowest (not too sure about it, but they did have Nismo in TN on the line).
What kind? With the Motul, it is pretty darn close. I don't get that loud clunk when I push in the clutch during a turn, but it will give me the continuous clunking if I accelerate moderately (1/3 throttle). Like I said in a previous post, it feels like it engages smoother, more gradually, but it still hasn't gone away.
60+ miles now.
What kind? With the Motul, it is pretty darn close. I don't get that loud clunk when I push in the clutch during a turn, but it will give me the continuous clunking if I accelerate moderately (1/3 throttle). Like I said in a previous post, it feels like it engages smoother, more gradually, but it still hasn't gone away.
60+ miles now.
#76
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
The funny thing for me is I basically didn't do a break in. I got my Nismo Diff installed about 3 hours from home at Performance Nissan and had a mag shoot the next day which I had a lot to do for. It was installed and I immediately hit the freeway and drove home three hours. Worked on my car till 4:30 the next morning. Went home, changed, and drove to a photo shoot 2 hours away. The Veruspeed stuff it comes with was in there for the next few weeks till I had a chance to change it out with some Redline. But basically I did no break in...
Thanks!
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MOTUL 90PA is what I recommend all my customers with locking type diffs. Drastically reduces all the clunking and notchiness. I run all MOTUL fluid on my car since day 1, even use their Wash N Wax as a detailer, works better than the Meguiars or Mothers stuff. http://www.mynismo.com/products/mult...sp?mid=2260325
#78
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OK, last night I got on it pretty hard because too much puttin' around gets REALLY boring. It started making loud sounds again, even after I let off and drove nicely the rest of the way home. This morning on my way to work though, the diff was quiet again! Last night I was worried that I had already cooked the Motul, but it seems like that might not be the case. :crosses fingers:
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Is the Nismo diff a clutch-pack based LSD? If so, the "clunky" or "popping" noise is probably clutch plate chatter. You just need to add LSD friction modifier until it quiets down. This is a well-known phenomenon in the off-roading world. It's not because one oil is inferior... you just need to get the right amount of friction modifier in there.
#80
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Originally Posted by jeeper78
Is the Nismo diff a clutch-pack based LSD? If so, the "clunky" or "popping" noise is probably clutch plate chatter. You just need to add LSD friction modifier until it quiets down. 3) This is a well-known phenomenon in the off-roading world. It's not because one oil is inferior... you just need to get the right amount of friction modifier in there.
I believe this comment based on the poster's background. 1) When I took my old Kaaz LSD to a 4X4 shop to inspect, they asked me if it came out of a Jeep. I pointed at my Z in the parking lot. 2) I just spoke to a friend of mine (white dude) that loves to go 4X4-ing said the sound coming from my diff is pretty normal for his Jeep. That's three out of three. I'm getting friction modifier today!