Jokestrap

PM please

dTor

iTrader: (27)

But if the Ultimate fried a coil pack or two, then it's not going to be fixed by switching to a different EMS... the packs are already fried.

Pain In The A$$

silver nismo

+1

Jokestrap

After picking it up from the shop every time, it ran great and the coil packs were never changed out. It has never been the coil packs.

I would suspect the alt but the power is not cutting out, lights don't dim ever etc.

Got to be grounding situation that is not frying the coilpacks but not giving them the proper current to fire correctly after time, cuz they work fine for a while.

Sean

hook up a voltage gauge

dTor

iTrader: (27)

+1

An ANALOG gauge since a digital one usually doesn't allow you to see instantaneous voltage changes like a needle does.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Use a small wire wheel on a cordless drill to clean the contact patch of the grounding wire lugs and chassi grouding points, apply electrical contact grease to each and retorq them tight.

Spray a little WD-40 or similar light oil on all the crimp conections. This will help prevent oxidiation and keep condensation/water out of the wires and crimps.

Cannysage

iTrader: (29)

what does your battery voltage say? should be 14+

Sean

he removed the stock gauge and has none as of a previous post

Jokestrap

Okay, I am going to get a new alt, a voltmeter (not digital) and clean all of the contact points of the neg's as suggested. I'll you know guys, thanks.

overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

ok, i have also done competition car stereo along with the motor stuff too. check all your stereo grounds. they should route back to a junction, then ground in one place. if not, a ground loop can be created. for things such as your deck, a small wire should be run back to your amp ground junction to eliminate a ground loop there, even if your main ground is under the dash somewhere. if there is a faulty piece of audio equipment that is grounded under the dash, near the comp ground, it can make both pieces act weird. ALL audio grounds should be far away from computers or other main operating grounds. ground connections can be tested with a simple ohm meter.
now have you tried unhooking the battery yourself for a little while, then hooking back up to see if it runs good then? meaning, no changes, just "resetting" everything. i have had faulty audio components that created internal ground loops (yet still worked), that created effects on other components grounded close to it.
electrical probs of this sort can only be dealt with one way, and that is dis-connecting things and testing in an isolated fashion. try removing the ground on your deck, and leave the rest of the system powered, if your deck still has power, it is grounding to another component, and so on. it should not do this.
while i feel this may not be your problem at all, it may be a different direction to test. good luck
hard to troubleshoot over the net, need to see in person.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Jokestrap, so this issue was occuring with both the eManage and the FCON?

You mentioned that after tuning, the car runs great for a while, and then starts to run poorly...correct? If so, it sounds like it could be something in the tune, or the FCON hardware that is causing this.

Jokestrap

It happened with both the FCON and eManage. When they pulled the motor, they removed the stock ground straps. What I found today is that there is one strap (in the pic) that goes from the bat to the engine. The other one (in pic) goes to one of the bolts of the coilover which is not a good ground at all in that one, it's painted, and two, it's the strut for crying out loud.

I think the ecu gets "reset" when it goes back to the shop and then goes south because an inconsistent and poor ground. That's all I can come up with based on what seems to make sense, and many of the responses. I have a new grounding kit that I will install tonight.

If that fixes it, will it run fine directly after installation, or does the ecu need to be "reset".

Thanks.

Jokestrap

Thanks for the response. It can't be the stereo. It is actually the one control factor in all of this. It was there prior to the build and after. Everything was fine for five months or so until I blew it up. Then the engine pull and reinstall and fart...

Jokestrap

I just finished installing a six wire grounding kit. I started the car and same thing. It seemed better it may have been my imagination. However, I did not disconnect the battery positive. Do I need to do that to reset any components maybe if it was in limp mode? Will the FCON lose the map that was in it?

Is there something that I need to do still to determine whether I fixed anything or not?

Thanks.

rocks

iTrader: (1)

Change your damn coil packs and quit beating around the bush.

Jokestrap

You are serious about this. I have had the car back three times and it ran great for short periods of time with the same coil packs. Are telling me that this can happen with bad coil packs?

rocks

iTrader: (1)

Yes bad coil packs go in and out. Sometimes it will run fine and sometimes it will run like complete ***. There is still current going through them but its like a short, so it comes and goes...

Jokestrap

If that's the case then it could def be the coil packs.

What do you guys think about what Rocks is saying (not to question or challenge)?

rocks

iTrader: (1)

Read this it will explain it in more detail than i can.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/copign.htm