Jokestrap

Guys,

I have had lots of problems ever since the build and reinstall. Get this, when in boost fairly hard with stereo on, it stereo cuts out. After a while, the car runs like crap, injectors, plugs dunno. Take it to the "Shop". Change out injectors(Precision Turbo 1000cc racing) and plugs, car runs great for 200 miles or so. All V-Pro wiring shielded from the stereo at the shop. Again, at WOT the stereo dies down. Just starting running like crap again.

I am getting real tired of this. The only clue that I have is that the stereo dies down when at WOT. Stereo mods: Head, two JL amps, 150 Cap., 4 Focal, 1 JL 10w7, total 800rms. I have a cap though.

Do you guys have any suggestions? Tomorrow I am going to disconnect the 4 gauge power wires for the stereo from the battery and see if it runs okay again. Last time this happened I had to have it towed to the shop so nothing would potentially go madly wrong on the way.

This is really frustrating for me and the shop. Please let me know if you have any ideas or have had experience with this. I am willing to trying anything at this point.

Thank you for your opinions.

Sean

the ground is my only guess as you have a cap, do you watch the voltage gauge?


even the ground doesn't make sence really...if voltage drops susspect alt, do you use aftermarket pully? is belt slipping at WOT? tension of belt enough?

DaveZ06

iTrader: (3)

i was gonna say a new grounding kit would probably fix the problem but it looks like ah couple of people already suggested that

Jokestrap

Okay, I'll re-do the grounds. Thanks,

Jokestrap

Wait a minute. If it's the grounds, does that mean that I need to replace anything after I fix the grounds? Am I damaging anything that needs replacing? Why does it runs like crap? Are the coil packs not getting proper flow of current or what?

The main question I have is will I need to replace anything after I fix the ground problem in your experience?

Thanks.

Jokestrap

Unfortunately, the stock voltage gauge was pulled to put in the defi's. Now I don't have one to watch. Never thought that something like this would happen. I have never needed one on my modded cars in the past. OOPs!

Jokestrap

You guys are most likely right. I just took a pic of my engine bay. Look, the shop did not complete the grounding straps all the way back to the battery. Is it possible that the grounding loop simply isn't closed, open loop created???

Thanks guys!!

Jokestrap

After reading up on this, it seems the wires don't go back to the battery negative anyway. I have battery negative to engine, engine to car, car to engine at plenum bolt (it's wired underneath).

???????????????????????????????

MR_X

iTrader: (5)

Is it just the radio going out or all electrical componets?

If it is just the radio then you need to take it out of the problem by removing it and tracing wires.

If the problem includes all electrical componets then I be looking at all grounds, but I would start by taking the stereo out of the problem including the cap.

Jokestrap

I disconnected the main wires to the battery that supply the amps and the cap with power and it still runs like crap. The head still has power obviously.

I don't know...

Sean

the amps are drawing alot of power and can be effected by a bad ground while other things remain working normal

Still need to check belt tension.

johnnywall22

iTrader: (2)

Get a optima yellow top battery i bet that will work better for you.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Are you saying you disconnected the stereo system power cable and it still runs like crap?

If this is the case, you may have something else going on. Its trouble shooting time!

blowdry

Is your car possibly in limp mode now? Also, check your vacuum lines, IC pipes , couplings & the MAF.

Jokestrap

I did disconnect the power wires to the amps last night and it still ran like crap.

I also disconnected the negative on the battery last night in an effort to reset "something", car still ran like crap this morning when connecting the battery again.

The car may now be in limp mode I don't know. When running though, the SES light blinks and it run horrible.

MR_X

iTrader: (5)

Well I don't think the stereo is the problem, it just a side effect of the real problem.

Let get this straight, this started after you installed the motor and turbo kit, right? If so, then the problem is a PITA. what I think it is, what ever it is, is that when you go WOT it physically moves and touches something that is not supposed to touch. Is your battery properly tied down?

Jokestrap

Mr_X, thanks for hangin in there with me here.

Here's the chain of events:
Purchased new: April '05
Stereo install May '05 no problems
Sept '05 TT install, car too slow, no problems at all, 5000 miles on TT, perfect
Dec '05 busted a rod doing stupid shizit
April '06 get car back built rev-up long block using Ultimate
Mayish '06, starts to run like crap
In shop, replace injector 5 and tune
Juneish '06, car runs like crap
July '06, V-Pro install, new RC 750 injectors, runs great for 1200 miles, lazy starts, misfiring once in while etc, then goes to crap.
Nov '06, new injectors, DLI, some more grounding straps in areas noted above on the right of the pic.
Dec '06, got car back, runs great for 250 miles, then same thing.

This is wearing me out!!!

Thanks.

MR_X

iTrader: (5)

I'm new to the Z, but I have a question about the SES light. I kow your SES blinks, but normaly when you get a SES light is it supposed to stay on or blink?

when you say it rns like crap, does it goes into limp mode or what is it doing?

I would say to start looking at your harness where the injectors are. Actually, the injectors that you have been running require a new plug to replace the factory one? If so, start by looking there.

Another thing I just though off. Look at the wiring in the F-CON.

Sorry for all the question but I'm trying to get as much info as posible since duplicating the problem is hard unless ou start the car and start to move wires around.

first350

iTrader: (24)

I'd check all your electircal connections, grounds and such. Have you touched the Altnerator during any of the installs?

grounds: Ground wiring should be seen between the engine and chassis - the (-) terminal on the battery is also grounded to the chassis...thus completing the loop. On older cars, the grouding straps to the chassis gets rust, which weakens the connection...check to make sure all the grounds are tight.

-Peter

Jokestrap

I'll check, thanks.