rb26dett and awd swap into 350z
02-27-2007, 09:48 AM
#41
Originally Posted by JuanFunction2ND
Well we are currently finishing up the AWD project. But it’s not a simple motor swap. U have to reconfigure the front frame rails to and modify under body to have every thing fit up right. That’s all I can say for now .ones it’s completed we will post pics driving experience RWD vs. AWD on the Z
02-27-2007, 01:15 PM
#42
Originally Posted by 2T350Z
You say that there is someone on here that will warr. there work please tell me who because if it weren't for this fourm i wouldn't have found out as much as I did today. I actually called alot of reputable shops in my area and told them that I had spending limit of 15g's and was looking for a range of 500rwhp and they told me that was very managable and were able to provide me with quotes. But if I can be provided with a warr. that would be much more valuable to me then spending 15's on something that wouldn't I didnt want to sound as though I was calling you guys a holes I just simply think that everyone is entitled to having a dream. I do agree in most cases if you say it can't be done most people tend to love to prove people wrong.
get a built motor from them
let them install and tune FCON Vpro
I could be wrong about the details, but check threads started by Sharif for more info
02-27-2007, 01:17 PM
#43
Originally Posted by JuanFunction2ND
Well we are currently finishing up the AWD project. But it’s not a simple motor swap. U have to reconfigure the front frame rails to and modify under body to have every thing fit up right. That’s all I can say for now .ones it’s completed we will post pics driving experience RWD vs. AWD on the Z
give us a ballpark figure of how much an AWD conversion plus rb26dett motor swap (not including cost of the motor) would cost... please!
02-27-2007, 01:30 PM
#44
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Props for doing an AWD conversion.. Talk about money!
I'm happy with staying RWD. No need to "rework" frame rails and etc.
Are you guys even legit.. No website??
I'm happy with staying RWD. No need to "rework" frame rails and etc.
Are you guys even legit.. No website??
02-27-2007, 02:52 PM
#45
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As funny as it is the gentlemen that started this thread was a inspiration and as i said prior I have been contacting many shops and I my self am actually thinking of doing the rb swap not to sure as wether either awd or rwd they are calculating the cost for awd. But for rwd swap with 500-600rwhp range is actually about the same cost of a vq built with a turbo except the RB is a little more reliable. Cost so far for labor is about 4 grand
02-27-2007, 02:56 PM
#46
Originally Posted by 2T350Z
As funny as it is the gentlemen that started this thread was a inspiration and as i said prior I have been contacting many shops and I my self am actually thinking of doing the rb swap not to sure as wether either awd or rwd they are calculating the cost for awd. But for rwd swap with 500-600rwhp range is actually about the same cost of a vq built with a turbo except the RB is a little more reliable. Cost so far for labor is about 4 grand
02-28-2007, 03:59 AM
#49
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I am not super worried about the weight. The RB is a good deal heavier than the VQ...BUT, how much heavier is it that a twin turbo VQ? That is what I am trying to find out.
I'm doing a full on weight comparison when I get done with my Z with the RB compared to when I had the Greddy TT VQ in. Here is basically what I have so far...
Engine: VQ35DE
Induction: Greddy TT
Fuel Level: 1/8 Tank
Other Modifications:
-Stripped Interior (everything except dash/console)
-OMP RS Racing Seats w/ Bride FG Rails
-BCR Harness Bar with G-Force 3" Camlock Harnesses
-Volk Racing TE37's (18x10.5/9.5)
-2.5" Test Pipe followed by a custom 3" true dual
-Track Model Brembo Brakes
-Hotchkis Sways and Springs, Tokico Struts, Cusco RS LSD
-JWT 14lb Flywheel and RPS Singledisc Clutch
Total Weight: 3161 lbs
Front/Rear: 56.6%
Left/Right: 50.3%
The RB will be single turbo with a stainless exhaust manifold. This should save some weight (two turbos + stock cast manifolds = heavy). Other than pure motor stuff, I am not removing anymore weight from the car for the preliminary weights. After I get those weights, I will probably get some other things to lighten it some more (racing steering wheel, odyssey battery, etc).
I'm doing a full on weight comparison when I get done with my Z with the RB compared to when I had the Greddy TT VQ in. Here is basically what I have so far...
Engine: VQ35DE
Induction: Greddy TT
Fuel Level: 1/8 Tank
Other Modifications:
-Stripped Interior (everything except dash/console)
-OMP RS Racing Seats w/ Bride FG Rails
-BCR Harness Bar with G-Force 3" Camlock Harnesses
-Volk Racing TE37's (18x10.5/9.5)
-2.5" Test Pipe followed by a custom 3" true dual
-Track Model Brembo Brakes
-Hotchkis Sways and Springs, Tokico Struts, Cusco RS LSD
-JWT 14lb Flywheel and RPS Singledisc Clutch
Total Weight: 3161 lbs
Front/Rear: 56.6%
Left/Right: 50.3%
The RB will be single turbo with a stainless exhaust manifold. This should save some weight (two turbos + stock cast manifolds = heavy). Other than pure motor stuff, I am not removing anymore weight from the car for the preliminary weights. After I get those weights, I will probably get some other things to lighten it some more (racing steering wheel, odyssey battery, etc).
02-28-2007, 08:32 AM
#50
It's just that when you add weight to the front of the car, you need to make serious adjustments to the suspension to make the car trackable etc. Good adjustible coilovers are going to add at least a couple grand with labor, corner balancing or whatever, etc
02-28-2007, 08:49 AM
#51
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After all is said and done the weigth vs reliability of a production FI motor out weights the increase in my opinion. Most people do not track their cars nor are they concerned about mainting equal weight distribution throughout the car. They just want cheaper and faster in a straight line (most people). So for an extra 20lbs or so you get piece of mind and a rare "JDM" bling setup then more power to ya'.
02-28-2007, 09:09 AM
#52
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Originally Posted by Alberto
BTW-your in way over your head...
Like moving to a foreign country....you are forced to learn the language to function in society. You learn it much quicker this way. Much quicker than any classroom. Same thing applies here. Let the guy be a trend-setter among everyday 350Z guys. You might be enlightened. Just my $.02 Bert.
02-28-2007, 09:28 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
It's just that when you add weight to the front of the car, you need to make serious adjustments to the suspension to make the car trackable etc. Good adjustible coilovers are going to add at least a couple grand with labor, corner balancing or whatever, etc
02-28-2007, 12:22 PM
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I don't think it would be too much of a difference and as long as you aren't planning on doing any really competitive racing you will be good. I was going to go this route myself, but I want a little more reliability and ease of getting parts if sh*t does go wrong.
02-28-2007, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by widebody350
I don't think it would be too much of a difference and as long as you aren't planning on doing any really competitive racing you will be good. I was going to go this route myself, but I want a little more reliability and ease of getting parts if sh*t does go wrong.
"Part's aren't easily available"
There are PLENTY of resources to get parts from. RB motoring, nengun, top hat performance, skyline shop and many australian shops are a few names that have import parts available for the US market.
It's not bad at all. I promise you.
02-28-2007, 02:44 PM
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Not that they are hard to find but to get them here in a timely manner. For example a radiator hose got messed up or little things that aren't really as much of a tuner part.
03-01-2007, 03:56 AM
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Yea there are a ton of parts, but the harder to find ones take forever to get. My nengun order with my Tomei headgasket and oil orifice was placed on 2/13 and it didn't actually ship until 2/26....and these were "in stock" parts.
Although, many other parts, you can have in a few days. JE got me my head studs delivered 1 days after I ordered them (and this was UPS ground). Ebay is your friend with RB series motors. Eric's performance parts on ebay has a ton of parts (oem gasket kits, oil pumps, water pumps, calico engine bearing kits, etc etc) and he gets them to you as fast as any full shop US vendor would.
There is one thing with the RB motor that many people might not know...*Do oil modifications if you will be sustaining high rpm or using a upgraded oil pump! The pump will pump more oil into the head than what can be returned which can easily cause spun bearings and a full catch can. You need a smaller restrictor for the oil orifice (stock is 2mm), open up the oil galleries, and put a return line from the back of the head back to the sump to alleviate this problem.
Although, many other parts, you can have in a few days. JE got me my head studs delivered 1 days after I ordered them (and this was UPS ground). Ebay is your friend with RB series motors. Eric's performance parts on ebay has a ton of parts (oem gasket kits, oil pumps, water pumps, calico engine bearing kits, etc etc) and he gets them to you as fast as any full shop US vendor would.
There is one thing with the RB motor that many people might not know...*Do oil modifications if you will be sustaining high rpm or using a upgraded oil pump! The pump will pump more oil into the head than what can be returned which can easily cause spun bearings and a full catch can. You need a smaller restrictor for the oil orifice (stock is 2mm), open up the oil galleries, and put a return line from the back of the head back to the sump to alleviate this problem.
03-01-2007, 07:34 AM
#58
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I'm not even touching up on the oiling much. Are you going to be doing all that?
I'm just widening and smoothening the oil return galleries, oil restrictor, and that's it. A N1 oil pump will also be my option. I don't think i'll be tracking the car much except drag racing and the occasional highway roll.
If anything my machinist recommended an accusump as well.
I'm just widening and smoothening the oil return galleries, oil restrictor, and that's it. A N1 oil pump will also be my option. I don't think i'll be tracking the car much except drag racing and the occasional highway roll.
If anything my machinist recommended an accusump as well.
03-01-2007, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 002-M-P
Yea there are a ton of parts, but the harder to find ones take forever to get. My nengun order with my Tomei headgasket and oil orifice was placed on 2/13 and it didn't actually ship until 2/26....and these were "in stock" parts.
Although, many other parts, you can have in a few days. JE got me my head studs delivered 1 days after I ordered them (and this was UPS ground). Ebay is your friend with RB series motors. Eric's performance parts on ebay has a ton of parts (oem gasket kits, oil pumps, water pumps, calico engine bearing kits, etc etc) and he gets them to you as fast as any full shop US vendor would.
There is one thing with the RB motor that many people might not know...*Do oil modifications if you will be sustaining high rpm or using a upgraded oil pump! The pump will pump more oil into the head than what can be returned which can easily cause spun bearings and a full catch can. You need a smaller restrictor for the oil orifice (stock is 2mm), open up the oil galleries, and put a return line from the back of the head back to the sump to alleviate this problem.
Although, many other parts, you can have in a few days. JE got me my head studs delivered 1 days after I ordered them (and this was UPS ground). Ebay is your friend with RB series motors. Eric's performance parts on ebay has a ton of parts (oem gasket kits, oil pumps, water pumps, calico engine bearing kits, etc etc) and he gets them to you as fast as any full shop US vendor would.
There is one thing with the RB motor that many people might not know...*Do oil modifications if you will be sustaining high rpm or using a upgraded oil pump! The pump will pump more oil into the head than what can be returned which can easily cause spun bearings and a full catch can. You need a smaller restrictor for the oil orifice (stock is 2mm), open up the oil galleries, and put a return line from the back of the head back to the sump to alleviate this problem.
03-01-2007, 09:24 AM
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Zexy, you will probably be just fine. The return line on the back of the head is the big step, but not as necessary as the oil restrictor and opening up the oil galleries. I am going to be doing all of that because my car will see more track time than it will drag strip runs. I am probably going to end up putting a Tomei upgraded oil pan baffle in as well. I just really don't want to spin a bearing 