I have been looking around trying to find a fix for the brake+gas=cut throttle thing our ECU does, and i have found nothing really. Well, i have found 1 method, but its not the greatest. Basically you just unplug the brake fuse (but you wont have working brake lights). I dont know which fuse is the brake fuse, and i dont wanna have to look for it each time i wanna do some burnouts.


Does anyone know any other methods for making it possible to brake and gas at the same time? Also, if anyone knows how to wire a switch to maybe cut the fuse from like a switch/button or something, please post some information.

 

You pretty much found your answer. Pulling or interrupting the brake light fuse is the only way to do a standing burnout without the ECU cutting power. To wire a switch, simply find the appropriate wire and put a switch in it. There are a few threads around that have discussed this in depth.

 

i know absolutly nothing about wireing switches etc, can you forward me to one of these threads, or explain it alittle plz. I have tryed to search but ive come up empty handed

 

If you are ever rear ended hope the insurance investigator never finds a brake lamp cut off switch or disconnection device or removed fuse.

 

Anyone else?

 

You need to get your hands on a FSM. You also need to have confidence in doing SIMPLE wiring. If not then don't attempt this, you could hurt yourself, or your Z. This tutorial was made from my very crappy memory, (I performed this modification over a year ago) so I don't guarantee anything--follow this tutorial at your own risk. No, I don't have photos. Use your imagination.


One last tip warning: disconnect your battery before doing this! If my diagram is mislabled (i.e. the negative and positive terminals are backwards, then you'll blow the 10A brake lamp fuse). Not a big deal--just swap the negative and postive connections, and replace the fuse.

P.S. I'm a software enginner, so I do whatever it takes to get things to work--even if it's a hack.

 

Isn't this for the AT or will it also work for the MT?

 

This mod was performed on my Z--I only have experience with 6MT, so I can't answer any 5AT specific questions.... I Don't see why it would be any different, though.

 

I use a fusable switch and it works great . You just gotta remember to switch it back off when not needed . All the VDC lights will come on....no biggy

SOme one over at g35driver makes a switch all wired up . It comes off the fuse it self , so no wires need to be cut . Thats what I did . Took me all of 10 minutes to hook it up .

 

you may want to just get line locks

 

From the "brake boost" thread in the FI forum:

https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...6&postcount=94

Looks like this guy actually tried it, but had problems holding the lock because of the ABS kicking in... Seems like more work is needed to get the line lock solution to work.

Seriously, this switch takes about 20-30 minutes to hook up and costs about $5. Besides, installing line locks may be a little more than some people can handle--look at the OP--he doesn't really understand which wires to hook up for a switch--forget about trying to install line locks.

 

ill give this a try, so basically, i just cut the wire, attach a new wire w/ switch, and vuala?

 

inventor on here sells the kithttps://my350z.com/forum/inventor-classifieds/144005-cmods-brake-torque-kit-illuminated-or-non-illuminated.html

 

just unplug the fuse, but only do this on the track

 

It's weird because back when NCR Performance had my car and it was ST they did this (removed stop light fuse) and all they ended up doing was burning up my clutch and warping my flywheel because they couldn't get the wheels to spin.

 

Pulling the Stop Lamp fuse does nothing for my 05 sedan. I'm considering pulling the wiring harness/plug behind the brake pedal next time I'm at the track.

 

Well done Cayjun, I was just talking to someone at the track last week and pulled his fuse and told him, Id work on a switch set up.

Your Mods to the Schematic are right on