I need some advice. My objective is 300 RWHP all motor. So far I have AAM Intake, AAM 2.5" Full Dual Exhaust, AAM Plenum Spacer, JWT Lightwieght Flywheel and Clutch and an AAM ECU Reflash. I havent dynoed yet, but likely will soon but I am pretty sure I have not reached my 300RWHP goal yet.

So, whats next to get me closer to my goal? I was thinking MREV2 but aparently I don't need it on an 03 Track Z. Wider Throttle Body dousnt seem to be worth the cost. Not sure how deep into the internals I want to go but cams would be at least 1 consideration, but which ones (I don't know squat about the internal parts variables)? Not going to do Nitrious and FI is out since I want to be all motor. With current mods I am guessing I should be somewhere between 260 and 280 RWHP (hoping the higher end) So where do I go from here?

Looking for suggestions.

 

headers, test pipes, updated reflash. You still prob won't be there, but that'd be the next step. You set on dyno numbers or speed? Go with 3.9 FD gears and your car will be 10% faster accross the board; best bang for the buck mod there is, IMO, but it won't really show on the dyno.

Just read your sig... hope you don't drive in the rain, LOL.

 

3.9 gears and test pipes are already on my "list of things to do". But 300RWHP is the Dyno number I am aiming for. The test pipes won't really provide alot of gain IMO. But more specifically is how far can cams take me... Again, I am a noob when it comes to internals.

anyone have an extra 2fast2furious sticker I can buy?! I know that would be good for atleast 20 RWHP!

P.S. BTW No, I don't drive in the rain, I have a truck for bad weather.

 

 

This must be your waying of saying... "The only way to 300 RWHP is to replace internals"?

 

I don't think you will get there without cams.

Also, I didn't see you mention test pipes or headers. That would be a good place to start, but you will need alternative tuning or another reflash.

Make sure you get the car up on a dyno and get the AFR tested. Unless you're runnning optimal AFR with slightly advanced timing, you won't even be close to 300whp. 100 octane may help if you experience knock as I did.


So... here's my advice for what it's worth

step 1, since it's the cheapest item, get test pipes first (or at least HFC)
step 2, headers, it seems the best are crawford, then nismo or DC, then for budget headers I'd check out strup

step 3, cams... the new GT Motorsports cams look intriguing... or you can go with the tried and true JWT

If you are going to install cams, you should do headers at the same time. Especially if you get the crawford headers, because the crawford headers are much easier to install with the motor out.

step 4... if you get this far, get a UTEC, and custom tuning. I would not necessarily trust the ability of the reflash to adapt to cams.


This is the problem with going for max N/A power. Making the next leap of faith will cost you at least $5000, and net you 30-40hp. Whereas I have about 25hp over stock, and even without any exhaust, headers, or cams, I have spent a good deal of cash already.

 

Well, I have already put 4500$ into the Z for the mods I have in my sig. That dousnt include tires and rims which were covered by insurance (FREEBIE!). Whats another 5k!!

Ultimate goal is 300+hp NA and 12second 1/4.

Next upgrade: Headers, Test Pipes, Cams., 3.9 FD

I saw this info posted somewhere, can't find it now. Whats the cam lift timeing mean? I've seen like 3 different options for lift timeing. Higher lift means longer durations, but how dose this translate to power is the question? If the highest lift gives the most power, why go for something lower?

 

You'll sacrifice idle when you go with huge cams.

 

F/I is for street cars.
N/A is for track cars.

Which are you?

 

save it for a turbo, its not worth the money whats 30-40hp?

even better save it for a GT-R

 

yeh but this guy prolyl dont wanna turbo cause he doesnt wanna blow his engine same reason i kept mine na if theres a way to make it 300whp na i want in lol

 

LOL. I am not sure what I am trying to say. I just saw this stroker kit, and I am sure that it will get you to 300HP.

 

Higher lift does not mean longer duration.

Big cams are not always the answer. I recommend you go for a cam that has been designed for a compromise between drivability, idle quality, and performance. Plus, it will be far cheaper if you get cams that work with your stock valvetrain.