double check for leaks?

might think about reflash for AFR corrections and timing with other driveability improvements (throttle response), but its not gonna solve phyiscal hardware install issues.

 

an "after" dyno is not useful without a "before" dyno.

I have been present for several "before" AND "after" dyno tests of the MREV2 and spacer combinations, and the products work as advertized. If you're not happy, again, just return them.

 

+1 to what Wired24/7 said.

Im sure that no matter how it compared to your friends dyno, there was a definite gain of at least 15HP in the upper midrange of your Z.

If your dyno didn't do much different than your friends, there is also the variable of the ECU moving the performance settings (timing) up or down. It happens all the time.

When doing a dyno I always suggest doing a ECU reset. Sometimes it can make a significant difference in your results depending on where your ECU was starting from. It seems there is about a 5-15 HP variability in power output depending on what mood your ECU is in. I've seen it on the dyno many times.

A ECU reset always puts your car back into performance mode.

Coolant and air inlet temperature can also make a big difference so it is important to carefully control these variables before and after installation of a mod that is to be tested on the dyno.

Doing the controls will help you focus on what mod does and not the ECU.

Tony

 

Changing the air path in front of MAF may create problems as the oem MAF equation [translation of MAF voltage to grams per second] was created to track oem filter box and intake.

On some cars/brands the MAF voltage drops [with CAI] which fools the ecu into leaning the mixture a few % which can increase power at some rpms on some cars the opposite occurs.

At WOT and 6,000 rpm even 0.01 volts [4.41 volts] difference is material.

Every 11F =1%; every 333 feet =1%
Engine is rated at 77F intake air at IAT roughly 60F ambient in shade with sufficient air flow to neutralize radiant engine heat.

 

mightve got a better jump, might shift faster than you? something. is yours a revup with the mrev2/spacer? if so you'll have more midrange and more topend than him, oughta walk him.

 

of course, a lighter flywheel and lighter wheels/tires or a 3.9 final drive setup would have you walking your bud everytime. Eliminating rotating mass will do more for acceleration than anything else N/A. Plus an 06' GT is gonna weigh alot more than an 03' Track. lightweight battery, test pipes, lighter wheels, toss the spare & jack, and you'll lose 125 pounds or so. even things up a bit.

 

Even if you gained 20+ hp , it wont always make you faster. 20 extra hp can do weird things to a chassis when its not set up for it, same thing for the driver.

 

From my understanding, CAI's do not do very well with spacers. Go 06 airbox and drop in, popcharger, or just short ram your injen.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I am definitely not going to remove the MREV2 and spacer... as I said, the car does feel better than it did stock.

I will convert my Injen to a shorty and go from there.

 

It was menchioned before. Lighten the load, you have a Touring and he has as Track model. Stock for stock, he already had an advantage because of weight.

 

If you have a stock air box, that would be a better option.

A short ram intake in the engine compartment (without a heat shield) will suck in a lot of very hot air from behind the radiator.

And hot air will clearly reduce power.

Go stock box!

 

im still waiting to see someone with the damn 1/2 spacer there has to be someone in the world with a damn 1/2 spacer. BAH with this 5/16 i wanna see a real spacer ...come out where ever u are man. Peak hp people where are u. !!!!!!!

 

I already did that test a long time ago.

1-2 more HP above 6K and about 1-2 less HP everywhere else below that.

Overall the 1/2" spacer makes less area under the curve. It will make more power for a race application, but would mean ditching the strut bar for it.

For a 1/4 mile race or street application this would be fine, but for road course racing, I would keep the strut bar.

 

cool tanks brotha

 

stock air box with motordyne spacer is the best combo!!


dont try to justify the money you spent on the injen by making it a short ram. that doesnt help either. good luck and post some more times up!

 

The Stillen Airbox seems to have an even better form than the stock airbox. It has a very good heat shield and its a short ram.

From your knowledge, lets say in his situation, would using a Stillen Airbox benefit him?

(Not sure if im asking the question in a manner which you could understand)

Thanks for any help!

PS. I have a 5/16 spacer & Mrev2 on my list, with Stillen CAI already installed.

.

 

Stock Airbox > Popcharger

 

yup

 

The Stillen flows a little better than stock and has the best heat shield of all the after market intakes but the stock still runs cooler.

 

well.... i have a stock o6 z with a cai my buddy has an 06 g35. stock it wasnt even a race. then he got a 5/8 spacer and headers still not a race. then he got full exhaust and off the line not a race but from a 40 to 60 punch we are about dead even. so i think that the spacer does help but exhaust seems very important.