View Poll Results: Those with the "clutch sticking" issue on the Z
2007 with clutch issue
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34
20.00%
2007 without clutch issue
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76
44.71%
Pre 07 with clutch issue
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17
10.00%
Pre 07 without clutch issue
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43
25.29%
Voters: 170. You may not vote on this poll
2007 Z Owners with/without Clutch Issue
#22
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My previous car was an 240 SR20 with a Spec 4 puck kelvar clutch and the clutch engagement feel on my '07 Z is similar to it. I personally like the new clutch engagement since I"m use to it from my old setup and find it easier to drive. So no, I don't think the clutch engagment point is related to the air in line problem.
Originally Posted by BlackJack
Is the clutch sticking problem manifested as a non-linear feel as it engages? Mine is smooth until it is almost fully engaged,then it seems to have a little catch that makes starting out jerky unless I blip the throttle a couple times before letting it out.I have been driving manual transmissions for about 40 years,and this is definately one of the more unique clutch engagements.![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#23
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Originally Posted by stogey420time
Tried to ignore this thread all day but ended up clicking it. Mine has 1,200 and nothing yet.
Noob question: how do you flush/bleed clutch fluid?
Noob question: how do you flush/bleed clutch fluid?
I'm not 100% sure as I haven't done this personally, but I have done some research and it seems very similar to bleeding the brake lines which I *have* done.
There's a bleeder valve for the clutch somewhere mounted on the transmission I believe. (about 6-10mm in size, roughly)
This is basically a 2 man job.
1. Make sure to keep enough fluid in the resevoir during this period.
2. Keep the fluid resevoir open.
3. You just hook up a tube to the valve and make sure it drains into something
4. Person 1 Pumps the clutch pedal a few times to pressurize the system and holds it down, person 2 opens the valve, lets some fluid come out, and closes the valve. You may need to pull the clutch pedal back up manually (that is the part that I'm not too sure about).
Do it several times and there should be no bubbles in the fluid that comes out. Also the fluid that comes out should look NEW and CLEAN, because old brake fluid absorbs moisture and boils more easily, so you want new and clean fluid in the line.
#24
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
I'm not 100% sure as I haven't done this personally, but I have done some research and it seems very similar to bleeding the brake lines which I *have* done.
There's a bleeder valve for the clutch somewhere mounted on the transmission I believe. (about 6-10mm in size, roughly)
This is basically a 2 man job.
1. Make sure to keep enough fluid in the resevoir during this period.
2. Keep the fluid resevoir open.
3. You just hook up a tube to the valve and make sure it drains into something
4. Person 1 Pumps the clutch pedal a few times to pressurize the system and holds it down, person 2 opens the valve, lets some fluid come out, and closes the valve. You may need to pull the clutch pedal back up manually (that is the part that I'm not too sure about).
Do it several times and there should be no bubbles in the fluid that comes out. Also the fluid that comes out should look NEW and CLEAN, because old brake fluid absorbs moisture and boils more easily, so you want new and clean fluid in the line.
There's a bleeder valve for the clutch somewhere mounted on the transmission I believe. (about 6-10mm in size, roughly)
This is basically a 2 man job.
1. Make sure to keep enough fluid in the resevoir during this period.
2. Keep the fluid resevoir open.
3. You just hook up a tube to the valve and make sure it drains into something
4. Person 1 Pumps the clutch pedal a few times to pressurize the system and holds it down, person 2 opens the valve, lets some fluid come out, and closes the valve. You may need to pull the clutch pedal back up manually (that is the part that I'm not too sure about).
Do it several times and there should be no bubbles in the fluid that comes out. Also the fluid that comes out should look NEW and CLEAN, because old brake fluid absorbs moisture and boils more easily, so you want new and clean fluid in the line.
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#29
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
im looking for new parts for 07Z and need suggestions!!
Flywheel assembly
through bearing
slave cylinder
clutch
pressure plate
looking for best after market they have!
Flywheel assembly
through bearing
slave cylinder
clutch
pressure plate
looking for best after market they have!
#30
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iTrader: (19)
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bump.....I had this issue yesterday in my 06. I installed a nismo lsd two days beforehand which was friday night. No problems all weekend. Fastforward to sunday afternoon, yesterday, I make a 1 hour and 20 minute drive then let the car rest for about 30 minutes. I leave again on another 1 hour drive. I get home, never shut the car down for cooling, and decided to play a little with the new lsd. So I hit a parking lot and turn almost 2 complete donuts. When I pressed the clutch pedal in, the pedal sunk to the floor. The pedal came back up far enough to actually work the clutch properly so I drove home. At this point, my pedal was pressed in about 2-3 closer to the floor than the brake pedal. I came back to my car about 30 minutes ago and the problem is gone. I simply pushed in the clutch pedal, let it go, and it came right back up to its proper position. I don't know what happened. Either I have air in the line or something inside the cylinder got stuck and wouldn't release the pedal. I think I'm gonna bleed the slave cylinder this weekend to see if there is any air. Keeping fingers crossed.
Edit: I forgot to mention that I have just over 9000 miles on my car.
Edit: I forgot to mention that I have just over 9000 miles on my car.
Last edited by DustinZ33; 08-21-2007 at 04:05 AM.
#31
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drove my 07 hard from day one. Clutch stuck the first time I took it to the track at 800 miles and feathered the clutch at 4.5k rpms. I can make the clutch stick on the ground at will now. Just by starting if off 4k+ rpms off the line will do the trick. Takin the car tommorow to the dealer as I set up an appointment for it.
#35
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I have 6300 miles on my 07 and it has been at the dealer for 2 weeks waiting for the parts to come in. I am now beginning to hear that the people who have had the slave cylinder replaced already, are now having the same problem all over again. this is a bit disconcerting to hear. I am still wondering why Nissan relocated the slave inside the trans.
#37
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I picked my car up today and reproduced the problem for the nissan tech. He says its my driving style and they dont want to fix it. I told them to F#!$ off and call up nissan corp. Why buy a Z when you gonna drive it like a corolla.
#38
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I had this issue in my 03. I think I simply boiled the fluid (after market headers, SC, etc...) whil driving hard. Changed fluid to Motul 600 and it never happened again.
I have an 07 with 6,000 miles on it. The clutch stuck on the floor twice two weekends ago while on a road course. Pretty sure I bolied the fluid in it. I will change to Motul 600 before the next event. I think that is the easiest potential fix. Next event is not until the first week in October. I will report back then.
I have an 07 with 6,000 miles on it. The clutch stuck on the floor twice two weekends ago while on a road course. Pretty sure I bolied the fluid in it. I will change to Motul 600 before the next event. I think that is the easiest potential fix. Next event is not until the first week in October. I will report back then.
#40
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Originally Posted by stogey420time
Guess the problem often occur when driven hard.
It appears to be the case....I frequently get on mine, but not from a dead start, etc. No problems yet at 4900 *knocks on wood*.
Regardless if guys ARE getting on it rough, shame on Nissan for not outfitting a sports car with the proper components.