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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 09:43 PM
  #21  
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Plus swaybar and exhaust.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 09:37 AM
  #22  
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Yeah I saw that but I wasnt sure if you HAD to take it off. It looked like you could get around it.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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You should be able to get the rear diff out without having to remove a stock exhaust and swaybar. Obviously, if you have aftermarket, things may be different.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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Your not gonna believe this, I called my local dealer today and he said it would be $700 to do a pumpkin swap! HE said I had to drop the gas tank, 3rd member and all this stuff, is he out of his mind? I thought it was just the exhaust and sway bar???

Last edited by Escobar; Jul 13, 2007 at 12:16 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #25  
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Has anyone done it themselvs or is this dealer trying to screw me?
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Yeah is either trying to screw you or has no clue, either way don't go there.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 12:23 PM
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I mean its probally 1 or 2 hours of work at most. What a bunch of crooked bastards. What do the bolts to the drive shaft and axles have to be torqued to?

Last edited by Escobar; Jul 13, 2007 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 02:01 PM
  #28  
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you dont drop the sway bar. just wiggle it out. for tq on the bolts i just cranked the hell out of them.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 03:28 PM
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oh ok. thanks rocks. Any imput will help. The bolts on the exhaust and the axles/drive-shaft are extremely hard to get off. I bought one of those pneumatic air tools but its worthless.

Last edited by Escobar; Jul 13, 2007 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 06:26 AM
  #30  
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Does anyone know what lb the drive shaft and axel bolts need to be torqued to? I am going to re-assemble it today. thanks
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #31  
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This is what I do without a tq wrench, just crank them down as hard as you can. Drive it around town for a few days, then recheck them.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 10:30 AM
  #32  
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allright, I have a wrench that goes up to 140 lbs, I'll just crank em down.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Escobar
Does anyone know what lb the drive shaft and axel bolts need to be torqued to? I am going to re-assemble it today. thanks
DOn't go crazy, as you might break stuff

Driveshaft 51-57 ft-lbs
axle 47-58 ft-lbs
Diff to car 67-81 ft-lbs
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:10 PM
  #34  
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thanks westpack!
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:13 PM
  #35  
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With the sway bar in putting the diff back in I balance it on the sway bar, the flange for the driveshaft pops right over it, and helps hold it while you get it lined up. Make sure you put that bolt in the back first, the one of the diff cover line it up first. Its so much more rewarding doing your own work than paying someone out the *** for it.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #36  
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no doubt man, it is a good feeling to do this, hopefully it works! thanks for the input.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #37  
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As far as finding one -

Boosted MT guys can ask the AT guys if they want to do a straight up trade (3.5 for 3.3) Then if you do the work yourself - it's completely free

Nothing better than that...


Escobar - it's an easy job. About an hour's worth of work and you're done. Two if you take your time. Good luck.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 02:03 PM
  #38  
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thanks buddy, just finished it up, wasn't bad at all. Thanks for all your help.

Last edited by Escobar; Jul 24, 2007 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 04:30 PM
  #39  
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I was wondering if you could help me out with a strange noise the vlsd is making. When I am letting the car idle in gear, just not giving it any gas, the vlsd makes a lot of noise. It doesnt sound good, like it needs to be greased. It squeaks and stuff. I don't know if I need to grease or replace some bolts or what. What do you guys think?
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