Okay, I just finished it and took it out for a test drive. I won't say it's like night and day but if you are really bothered by the high engagement point then this is the mod for you.

At first I followed the instructions word for word. On the black and white stopper I put two layers of double-sided tape. I took it out for a test drive and felt that this was too aggressive for me. I've already adapted my driving style to the high engagement and with two layers of tape, it puts the point to right where the clutch is about to kick in.

Then, I came home and took off one of the layers. This felt much better (to me) and I'm going to keep it this way. It gives a little leeway (maybe 5mm?) just before the clutch engages. Still pretty aggressive but not as much so as with two layers. I suggest you try different settings to your liking.

You can take it even farther but not using any tape (or you could take out the black piece) if you are paranoid about wearing out your clutch. I parked my car and took a sniff around the car...no burning clutch so that's good. Thanks to the OP and the dude who came up with this solution. I have been looking ever since I got my car.

 

damn man you beat me to it by like 2 hours https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/288582-diy-clutch-stopper-aka-free-d-wolf-clutch-kit.html

 

Well, crap. I just realized I re-invented the wheel. I was all about to post up a big DIY on this and here it is, someone's already done it.

BUT, I'd like to add something: how to determine the exact thickness the spacers should be for YOUR clutch. I got this info. from an old post by Jason@Performance as I was researching the mod. This was a post from '06 where an adjustable clutch stop was discussed:

Here's the original thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/203637-how-far-do-you-push-down-the-clutch-pedal-when-shifting.html

Using the above method, you can be assured that you are spacing up the clutch stop safely. I just layed a yard stick at the top edge of the floor mat and rested it on the seat as I depressed the clutch pedal as a buddy tried to spin the real wheels. I determined that (as I had the yard stick sat and from my perspective) my clutch was fully disengaged at 2.5" from the floor, so I pressed the pedal in another inch to 1.5" from the floor and measured the gap between the clutch stop and the bumper on the pedal arm with a set of measurement calipers. The gap was 10mm, so I glued a stack of coins together in this thickness and used it there (I used silicone adhesive to first glue the coin stack, then glue the stack in position, holding it in place with a zip-tie to cure). For the clutch interlock switch spacer, since it is further up the clutch arm, it's travel is slightly less and I found a spacer 1mm less than the clutch stop spacer to be the right fit for there, so for me a 9mm stack of coins did the trick.

Now, my clutch pedal travel is reduced by 1.5" at the bottom and the clutch begins to engage just over 1" off the floor and is fully engaged 1.5" off the floor. It feels great going into gears and makes gear changes lightning quick and no more guess-work on modulating clutch and gas pedals for smooth shifts; just let out the clutch and hit the gas simultaneously and shifts are smooth and jerk free.

Here's the pic I made up for the DIY I was going to do:

 

For those who are looking to adjust the engagement point of their clutch, adjust the threaded rod indicated in this picture:

 

^ bad idea. That has been covered at nauseum.

 

If you have the JWT clutch and flywheel, not only is it a good idea, it's absolutely necessary. My engagement point was about 1/2" off the floor. This made it very difficult to drive. Reason is that the JWT combo is much thinner than the OEM combo. Had to adjust the rod in a bit. Now my engagement point is about mid-travel.

 

the stock clutch is not bad...i had a rps 6 puck and it held well but wore faster

 

Aftermarket clutch may be different story; this thread is referring to the stock clutch.

NOt sure I follow you, though... the engagement on your JWT to too LOW and you had to adjust the rod so the pedal is higher, then? Should have been the other way around.

 

This thread is referring to the travel length of the stock clutch. However, it's titled "engagement point". My point is that this has nothing to do with the engagement point. Anyone who has fitted a JWT clutch and is using the search function to find a remedy for the lower engagement point caused by the JWT clutch will come across this thread because of the improper title and think that this is a solution. My goal is to let those folks know that this is not a solution to the "engagement point" problem.

Yes, you follow correct. Because the JWT is thinner, the T.O. bearing must travel farther to disengage the clutch. For the T.O bearing to travel farther, the clutch pedal must travel farther. This is why my engagement point was so close to the floor. By turning the rod in towards the firewall, I am moving the T.O. bearing closer to the clutch. This way, is has less distance to travel to disengage the JWT clutch.

 

the stock clutch increased my vertical jump by 5 inches