12SecZ

Union 76 Nascar same stuff they sell at the tracks (unleaded.)

KR doesn't kick in on these ECU's?

It *had* to been ECU related!

D'oh

Yeah, but you are in California. I think all our gas has oxygenates; either MTBE or in some cases, Ethanol. I think 76 is actually switching to Ethanol now - I know the station near my parents house no longer uses MTBE, but Ethanol instead - but I'm not sure about the other stations. Anyhow, maybe they don't put that stuff in their 100 octane, but I know it's in all the other gasses.

-D'oh!

12SecZ

I bought it in a 5 gallon can at tognotti's I will check next week when I fill my N20 bottle there. What should I be looking for?

http://www.tognottisautoworld.com/

stx

MaxHax, just ask them if it has oxygenates. If it does and you still want to use it make sure it doesn't have more than 15% or correct me if I am wrong no more than 2% of any ethanol or is it methanol, something like that.

I used MS103 from VP racing and it cost me alot of power. Which I didn't know it had 15% MTBE so I don't recommend using it. I recommend using C10 from VP because it has no oxygenates and it made a world of difference in my car. (Not horsepower wise just that it ran smoother).

12SecZ

I added a full tank of 89 to dilute it and it runs strong again at all rpm's, go figure.

I need some A/F Timing and spark measurements I think to be optimum.

I'd buy a dual mode ECU or the SAFC-II if it had an english manual today.. Like I mean order it right now online.

Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

MaxHax:

i found some not so good news,

a "switchable" dual mode ECU program (i.e. flip a switch togoto NOS program over non-NOS program) would probably be impossible due to the setup of the currect ECU... there just isnt room for TWO ROM boards inside the ECU, and having an external memory board would probably quite difficult... that would require a daughterboard to be soldered onto the main motherboard....

those programs requiring fulltime maping (i.e. NA or Forced Induction) that is possible...

12SecZ

Thanks Chester,

I am leaning (get it) towards the Apexi S-AFCII
Matter of fact I want to order one now. Just want to make sure I can install it with japenese instructions someone posted some wiring colrs somewhere is that all that was needed?

nonmature

I think that the ecu will tune them out somewhat but I still think you will have some gains. It should be somewhere in the middle. haha this is exactly why I have my nitrous... cant detune that. only reason I boought the intake is so I dont blow the stock air box. but I would start now if I were you the ecu upgrades are sure to come out soon and solve these problems...

-non

johnsZ

Based on working on various types of engines since about 1967 or so, there are some things that work, and some that don't. the intake stuff, assuming you use a low-density filter like K&N or similar can give you lower intake pressure drop, but only a touch, so you get a very very slightly larger air mass in the cylinder. the cold intake idea is also working for thermodynamic efficiency- but the air intake is already in a cold spot, so moving things around probably wont affect things within experimental error. However, some of the aftermarket air intakes do look a lot cooler than the black box..... so this is worth the price of admission. These pipes resonate differently than the Nissan air box, which is why there is a different tone as people noticed.
The exhaust is another issue- one of the earlier threads said that you need to do the power upgrade as a package deal- this is correct. Just opening up the exhaust may actually reduce power as the backpressure will be reduced and some of the charge can blow out the exhaust before the exhaust valve closes, and thus waste the intake charge, plus fool the computer into leaning out the injectors as the oxygen content will be low (this might be what one of the threads referred to). So, the power will be down.
Note that the engine is already doing about 82 horse per liter which is pretty good for no boost.... so there is not much left without really overhauling everything as a package deal working with the local dyno-guy (see the earlier thread in this chain). Good luck with whatever you do.