nope, only the thermostat, which, you know how that works..opens and closes. I chased the same thing down dude, it happens to all of us. I was paranoid the headgasket on my new motor was done, or perhaps we didnt torque the headstuds down enough. My upper hose (pass side) was hard as a rock and HOT (like hot, hot), the lower hose was cold. I use the real bleeder to burp and burp and burp, and it got better, but even with the car just sitting, it would eventually get hot. Finally, it burped its last breath of air and viola...no issues since

 

ok... well.... I guess Ill just continue to do that. Thanks guys

 

when you put the new thermostat in what clock position did you put the little bleed vave?

 

Why does nissan make it sooooo hard to do this crap?

 

Im pretty sure the thermostat can only go in one way.

 

there is a small pin in the flat of the thermostat that needs to be at 12 o'clock position to allow air to purge ,might be your problem. tip:cut pin off and drill out hole oversize to help bleed air faster.

 

I understand, but the thermostat can only go one way on the block, and when you put it on the only way, its at the 12 o'clock position. Good idea about drilling it out though.

 

i've seen them in the craziest places ,they are not always where they should be.if you have mystery over heat condition it should definitaly be verified.

 

when you bleed it again jack the car up one side at a time as high as you think is safe to help relocate the pockets of air.do this with the car hot and the cap off.

 

ok cool.... Ill try it today. I have to go buy a bleeder screw cause I lost the other one. lol

 

[QUOTE=Z1
The water pump really can't go bad...its driven by the timing chain. Either its spinning (which it is if the car starts) or its not (which means your motor is seized). If no coolant is being lost (ie leaking out of the front cover in the motor), your water pump is fine[/QUOTE]

Actually, I have seen a few water pumps where the impellers have been broken off. Even though the pump is turning, with the impellers broken off there would be a dramatic reduction in coolant flow. These impellers can also reduce coolant flow by causing a blockage, both issues would cause a car to overheat very fast. So it is possible for a water pump to go bad, however this is mostly pumps with non-metalliac impellers.

 

vw and audi fall off constantly ,they crack in half.and you dont realize till the fans and relays melt down(literally)

 

maybe your radiator hose is pinched?

I had a super tiny hole on my radiator once in my old car, which caused the overheating. It leaked a drop at a time, so it was hard to diagnose

 

You need to buy one of those coolant refill kits...Basically you hook up your air fitting to this kit and it will create a vacuum and will pull out all the air and also allow you to check for any leaks. After you let it suck for 10min you take out the air hose and have a big bucket filled with coolant and the vacuum will suck in the coolant and fill the whole system up with coolant...no burping required... BTW do you have hot air coming from your heating system? Miles on your car?

 

Hmm... Thats a good idea. Where do you get them? And yes, I have hot air coming from the heater. 60,000 miles.

 

Hope it's not a headgasket...I was going through the same thing a couple years back with a civic...I tried everything I could think of until my mechanic discovered a little coolant in my oil...Try checking the dipstick for a white, milky substance and have someone follow behind you to see if there is any white smoke coming from the exhaust...

 

i have and dont use one of these because although the concept is brilliant they dont perform as well as indicated.

 

I am having a very similar problem and was wondering if you've done any performance mods recently. Did the overheating just happened one day or was is caused by putting a new engine, pulleys, hoses or radiator?

Did you resolve it yet?

 

I had this issue twice.

Once it was a bad thermostat that was not opening up.

The other time it was a air bubble that was in the motor. I had to keep going out and beating on the motor till it started to get hot and then open the bleeder valve on the back hose until air stoped coming out and coolant came out. Then I would go do it again and eventually it stopped.

While a headgasket and a water pump are all possibilities I wouldn't be so quick as to overlook a simple air pocket.

 

I was thinking, based on the description, large air pocket that won't budge