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clutch break in question.

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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 06:52 AM
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Default clutch break in question.

I just had a clutchmasters stage 3 clutch and flywheel installed. How many miles do I have to drive to break the clutch in? Whats the highest I can rev it?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:09 AM
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i'm trying to be safe and drive atleast 1k miles with never going over 3k rpm while in gear. I revved my car plenty of times while in neutral though since there is no clamping involved.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:11 AM
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give it at least 500-1000 miles before you race it.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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Ahhh at least 500 miles? I never really enjoyed break in periods. lol
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:08 AM
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Yep 500-1k miles.. Try not to rev over 4k..
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:09 AM
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so 4k is the ceiling for revving I assume? Some say 3 some say 4. I'm gonna go with 4k most likely.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:27 AM
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honestly, 400-500 miles of normal stop and go street driving...long trips on the highway don't count

no launches, no burnouts, etc.

From there - you'll be good to go
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperBlack350
i'm trying to be safe and drive atleast 1k miles with never going over 3k rpm while in gear. I revved my car plenty of times while in neutral though since there is no clamping involved.
yes, there is clamping involved. Unless the clutch pedal is pushed down, the clutch is fully engaged. There is also still some load from bearing drag. This doesn't amount to much, but there is some.

Once, ages ago while doing some repair work to a car (I had broken a u-joint on one of those driveshafts that didn't have replacable joints, and had trouble finding a new one), I had it up on ramps and was idling it (it was cold, damp weather and I didn't want condensation everywhere so I would warm it up every day or so) in neutral and you could watch the output shaft of the gearbox turning slowly from internal drag.

Of course, when there is a driveshaft attached and the wheels are on the road you have several thousand pounds of extra resistance acting against this drag.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by simonfencer
yes, there is clamping involved. Unless the clutch pedal is pushed down, the clutch is fully engaged. There is also still some load from bearing drag. This doesn't amount to much, but there is some.

Once, ages ago while doing some repair work to a car (I had broken a u-joint on one of those driveshafts that didn't have replacable joints, and had trouble finding a new one), I had it up on ramps and was idling it (it was cold, damp weather and I didn't want condensation everywhere so I would warm it up every day or so) in neutral and you could watch the output shaft of the gearbox turning slowly from internal drag.

Of course, when there is a driveshaft attached and the wheels are on the road you have several thousand pounds of extra resistance acting against this drag.
i understand but i was talking about the clutch disc burning.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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Really,I'm getting my turbo and new clutch(jwt combo), and it needs to be tuned( on a load based dyno) so how is that gonna work out if I shouldn't rev over 4k?
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by terps
Really,I'm getting my turbo and new clutch(jwt combo), and it needs to be tuned( on a load based dyno) so how is that gonna work out if I shouldn't rev over 4k?
if you are having both installed at the same time, then get a base tune where you can drive around and not boost under 3k rpms until 500-1000 miles.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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+1 on that. But is it okay to rev to 4k?
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