clutch break in question.
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From: Woodbridge NJ
I just had a clutchmasters stage 3 clutch and flywheel installed. How many miles do I have to drive to break the clutch in? Whats the highest I can rev it?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
i'm trying to be safe and drive atleast 1k miles with never going over 3k rpm while in gear. I revved my car plenty of times while in neutral though since there is no clamping involved.
honestly, 400-500 miles of normal stop and go street driving...long trips on the highway don't count
no launches, no burnouts, etc.
From there - you'll be good to go
no launches, no burnouts, etc.
From there - you'll be good to go
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Originally Posted by SuperBlack350
i'm trying to be safe and drive atleast 1k miles with never going over 3k rpm while in gear. I revved my car plenty of times while in neutral though since there is no clamping involved.
Once, ages ago while doing some repair work to a car (I had broken a u-joint on one of those driveshafts that didn't have replacable joints, and had trouble finding a new one), I had it up on ramps and was idling it (it was cold, damp weather and I didn't want condensation everywhere so I would warm it up every day or so) in neutral and you could watch the output shaft of the gearbox turning slowly from internal drag.
Of course, when there is a driveshaft attached and the wheels are on the road you have several thousand pounds of extra resistance acting against this drag.
Originally Posted by simonfencer
yes, there is clamping involved. Unless the clutch pedal is pushed down, the clutch is fully engaged. There is also still some load from bearing drag. This doesn't amount to much, but there is some.
Once, ages ago while doing some repair work to a car (I had broken a u-joint on one of those driveshafts that didn't have replacable joints, and had trouble finding a new one), I had it up on ramps and was idling it (it was cold, damp weather and I didn't want condensation everywhere so I would warm it up every day or so) in neutral and you could watch the output shaft of the gearbox turning slowly from internal drag.
Of course, when there is a driveshaft attached and the wheels are on the road you have several thousand pounds of extra resistance acting against this drag.
Once, ages ago while doing some repair work to a car (I had broken a u-joint on one of those driveshafts that didn't have replacable joints, and had trouble finding a new one), I had it up on ramps and was idling it (it was cold, damp weather and I didn't want condensation everywhere so I would warm it up every day or so) in neutral and you could watch the output shaft of the gearbox turning slowly from internal drag.
Of course, when there is a driveshaft attached and the wheels are on the road you have several thousand pounds of extra resistance acting against this drag.
Originally Posted by terps
Really,I'm getting my turbo and new clutch(jwt combo), and it needs to be tuned( on a load based dyno) so how is that gonna work out if I shouldn't rev over 4k?
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