Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

First of all, those mounts you pulled up arent Solid and the 3rd item is I believe a transmission mount

undrgnd

iTrader: (2)

Yes, these are the items the OP was asking about. There is not much benefit to be gained from replacing the transmission mount also?

jetpilot, any complications or things to watch out for when dropping the engine 1/4"?

jonnylaw

iTrader: (3)

hmm so the solid motor mounts are actually cheaper than the polyurethane ones and are likely more effective?

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Then I misunderstood------Reply # 7 is a picture of a SOLID motor Mount

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Any way to eliminate/lessen-- energy/HP absorbtion in the drive train will allow more power to reach the ground. I repeat........Rubber,Urethane (better) mounts are for comfort not efficiency. I prefer efficiency

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

No Adam, I was referring to the motor mounts. I believe the kit from SVRT comes with shims, which you can choose to use or not. I was wondering if with the shims in place if it would allow the GT Spec braces to fit, or if it even mattered? I know it lowers the motor about 1/4 inch, but I didn't think it would affect fitment of the brace.

Dynosty

iTrader: (27)

I agree, solid motor mounts do not shake you like they do in some other cars. They go unnoticed from a comfort standpoint, but make the car more connected feeling.

We have them in stock, and ours locate the engine in the stock position. Also, ours come threaded on both ends with studs which makes for an easier install. You can put the nut on one side and then slide it into the other.

http://www.injectedperformance.com/V...t.aspx?ID=4478

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

you would have to shim it so much bet I the factory strut brace would no longer fit - the differential between the clearance the bigger pans need vs the GT Spec brace is quite large as I recall

undrgnd

iTrader: (2)

I'm very interested. Any way you can post a few lines on the installation method? Such as, where to place the floor jack to lift the motor, how to get to the old mounts, when to loosen them, how to wiggle them out, etc...? A few tips would be very helpful. I can start another thread if this is OT.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

If you have a choice, I guess one method would be to use an engine hoist to pull the engine up utilizing the small window in the front of the timing cover. Once the engine is up you will have access to both engine mounts.

This is a pic from the front of the car looking at the driver side:


The black thick support is the cross member. There is 1 engine mount on the driver side and 1 on the passenger side. The 3rd engine mount is basically the back end of the tranny. So yes, the engine and tranny are held up by 3 points.
One more:


It is the rubber component that you would be swapping out.

Wired 24/7

iTrader: (2)

this would be a good mod to do while your motor is out for crawford headers install, turbo install, etc

I personally have been thinking about it. The motor moves around way too much in the mounts for my taste.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

^^^ Thanks for the pics! :-) It looks like the engine needs to be raised or rocked @ 2" to get the mount-bolts to clear top & bottom?

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

GC----2 minimum. The advantage of a cherry picker type hoist is you can really bring that motor up without taking off the hood and the jacking from the bottom just plain sucks. Giving yourself plenty of room is the key to all flawless installs, no matter what they are. Taking the time to give yourself room pays off 10 fold in the end

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

The studs in the OEM mounts that go into the crossmember are close to 2 inches so that tells you alot

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

I found a shot with the engine out.


Here is a close up of the top of the motor mount. This is the part of the job that you probably won't like too much...is getting to this bolt.

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

^
I was able to get at mine while the motor was still in the car but it isn't a walk in the park to say the least.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Could that be reached from above with, say a 30" extension + swivel? Or would it be better to try it from underneath the engine? I know you'll need a 17mm deep socket to get to the nuts themselves.

These pics are worth a thousand words, thanks for sharing! :-)

SpoilsofWar

iTrader: (39)

Well not to get off topic, but the front GT Spec bar will fit the the Greddy oil pan, which is larger then stock, as long as you are using standard motor mounts. Pretty sure thats the only aftermarket pan/spacer that it will work with though. And it is a TIGHT fit.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, the Greddy pan is close.

WA2GOOD

iTrader: (24)

Wow, I see I am a little late to this thread.

As for the original question about the Megan Racing stiffer motor mounts, I have them on my Z and they are a big improvement over stock. They limit the actuall motor movement by about 70%. They allow for a tiny bit of movement which is good so that it will remain quiet much like the stock ones do, and they also aren't a direct solid mount that can not only add more in cab noise, but could also add more wear and tear on other elements of the car.


For added performance on a street car, I would install these Megan Racing ones for sure, as they are a great compramise and seem to be the best of both worlds. They also come with the tranny mount.

For an all out track race car, I would go with a solid motor mount like the ones we have in our Time Attack car from Scott @ SVRT.

Either way motor mounts are a nice improvement to have for your car.